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AN AMERICAN WOMAN 

EUROPE. 



L^ 



THE JOURNAL OF TWO YEARS AND A HALF SOJOURN 

IN GERMANY, SWITZERLAND, FRANCE, 

AND ITALY. 



BY 



MRS. S. R. URBINO. 



n 






BOSTON: 
LEE AND SHEPARD. 

1869. 



Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1869, by 

LEE AND SHEPAKD, 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the District of Massachusetts. 






THE LIBRARY I 
OF CONGRESS 

WASH1NGI25L 



stereotyped at the Boston Stereotype Foundry, 
19 Spring Lane. 



TO THE READEK. 



The many questions asked about our every- 
day life in Europe have induced us to write out 
from our journal, as far as the limited space 
would allow, the plain and simple facts as we 
noted them down at the moment, without at- 
tempting to embellish either facts or form, as 
we wish things to be seen as they really are. 

A few hints to those about travelling may 
not be amiss. Take no more clothing than is 
absolutely necessary, but be well provided with 
shawls, rugs, &c., for use on the passage. French 
and German steamers are preferable when going 
direct to the continent. 

French gold (Napoleons) is the only money 
which is everywhere taken, and generally brings 
a little more than its par value. 

It is necessary to have small change of the 
I country in which you are. Do not have your 

"' (3) 



TO THE READER. 



money changed in hotels, but through your 
banker, or a broker. 

Much trouble is saved by having railroad fare 
ready, as in some places no change is given. 

When you leave one place for another, where 
you intend to remain some time, but wish to 
see all that is to be seen on the way, send your 
baggage by Express train (Eilzug) to the place 
where you intend to stay ; you are sure to find 
it on your arrival. By so doing you are freed 
from care and a great deal of expense. 

Ask for a "Nicht rauchen" couple, as smoking 
is allowed in all cars not thus marked. 

Choose central j)oints from which to make ex- 
cursions, as Dresden, Frankfort-on-the-Main, &g. 

Those persons who go abroad to recuperate 
would do well to remain, at first, for some time 
in one place, to accustom themselves to the man- 
ner of living. 

In every country where you go, try to live as 
the people live, not only in eating and drinking, 
but in out-of-door life and amusements, if you 
wish to enjoy your trip and be benefited thereby. 

The Author. 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUliOPE. 



On the 9th of May, 1866, we set out for our Euro- 
pean trip. On our arrival at East Boston, we were 
rather disappointed to find that the steamer, in which 
we were to sail, had been obhged to drop down the 
harbor to make f)lace for another; and we were 
forced to wait on the wharf for the conveyance 
which was to take us on board. 

We, with other passengers, worried through a very 
long hour, straining our eyes for the something which, 
we supposed, would afford us shelter from the rain 
and cold. By and by, a mean, dismal-looking tug pre- 
sented itself. Several of us, in our simplicity, imagined 
that it was sent for the baggage, and that something 
better was provided for the passengers. But we were 
greatly mistaken, for passengers and baggage were all 
stowed into it; the former sheep-fashion, the rain 

(7) 



8 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

answering the purpose of a shepherd's dog, by driv- 
ing them closer together under the canvas rag which 
served for a kind of awning. I must acknowledge 
that my heart rather sank within me at this disagree- 
able commencement; but, as I am not one of those 
who turn back, I tried to be satisfied, and did my best 
to rally the courage of ladies with wet feet and crying 
babies. Notwithstanding the rain, kind friends forced 
their way through the crowd on board the tug to take 
leave of us, and one wished me " a pleasant time being- 
seasick." I had the sick — plenty of it — without any 
of the pleasant. 

After another hour of exposure to rain and cold, we 
all got safely on board the steamer. 

It took some considerable time to stow away the 
huge pile of trunks and carpet-bags, of all colors, 
sizes, and fashions, after which the steamer began 
hissing, smoking, scuffling, and Anally moved on, 
leaving our dear home far behind. 

10th. Several persons, particularly ladies, were in- 
visible ; but their whereabouts was determined by their 
moaning, groaning, and gnashing of teeth. Misery 
does not love company in such cases. 

Those who did not suffer from seasickness enjoyed 
the abundant and luxurious fare provided for them, 
partaking of a hearty breakfast at eight; lunch at 
twelve ; dinner at four, and tea at eight o'clock ; sup- 
per for those who desired it. 



AN AMEMICAN WOMAN IN EUKOPE. 9 

In the night we were awakened by a frightful noise, 
which lasted a long time. There were running, loud 
talking, and general confusion, all of which we at- 
tributed to the taking in of passengers and freight at 
Halifax, and we consoled ourselves that all was going 
on in the usual manner. 

Alas ! how sad we felt next morning, on learning that 
a boat had struck the steamer and sunk, with three or 
four men, all of whom were lost before our boats could 
be got ready to rescue them ! 

Upon deck there was a grouping of wiseacres, who 
told just what ought to have been done to save 
the men, and many shook their heads. All, however, 
agreed that it required a great deal too much time to 
lower the ship's boats ; and all deplored the fate of 
those so suddenly launched into eternity. 

It w^as said among the passengers that the men in 
the boat supposed the captain's order was to them, and 
thus, in their fright, put themselves in the way of the 
steamer. One of our passengers, an old Orthodox 
clergyman, seriously objected to putting out our boats. 
The fear of losing what we might need ourselves 
seemed to blind him to his Christian duty of trying 
to save his brother from destruction. The remark of 
one of the ship's officers was a good rejjroof to the 
clerical gentleman : " Go down into your cabin, and 
pray that God may endow you with more charity." 



10 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EtJKOPE. 

We write these things just as they were related to us. 
We have since heard that many things happen on 
board the steamers which interested parties try to 
bush up. 

Among the passengers were several charming little 
children, whose merriment afforded much pleasure to 
such of us as prefer their innocent mirth to the fol- 
de-rol conversation and affected manners of would- 
be somebodies, who contrive to let one know their 
pedigree, the value they set upon themselves, the 
amount of wealth they possess, or their astonishing 
cleverness in driving a bargain. 

The weather was very fine, and we made good prog- 
ress. On the 12th the sailors had what they called 
a cock-fight, for the amusement of the passengers. 
Two of them were trussed up with sticks and strings. 
They moved about the deck, butted each other, thereby 
gained a few dollars, and made the spectators laugh. 

The 13th was Sunday. Of the three clergymen 
who were in our midst, the Episcopalian was chosen 
to conduct religious services in the saloon. No 
doubt he discoursed very. well, but the broad expanse 
of water, clear sky, and pure breeze carried us farther 
into the world of spirits than any preaching could 
have done. 

I must not forget to say that I saw a lady — yes, 
and one of the so-called sick ones, too — take coffee, 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. • 11 

beefsteak, boiled eggs, hot biscuit, buttered toast, and 
fried potatoes, with one tumbler of punch and another 
of cider, for her breakfast before going to the service. 
If she devoured the preacher's words with the same 
avidity that she did her breakfast, it is hoped that she 
became strengthened in the faith. 

The weather continued fine until the 17th, which 
was rainy and cold. Many of us were in the cabin 
the whole day, sick and gloomy, trying to sleep 
away our precious time, and consoling ourselves with 
the idea that we should soon come to our journey's 
end. Who can wonder that those who suffer too 
much to enjoy life should long for a haven of rest? 

On the 19th we came within sight of land, and watched 
the coast with intense interest during the whole day. 
Made a short stop in the harbor of Queenstown. 

Sunday again, and again religious services were 
performed. I cannot say anything about the benefit 
derived to the listeners to prayers read from books, 
but I do think they are benefited by the privilege of 
singing together. At any rate they seem to enjoy 
it. We listened to their sacred songs, and prayed 
from our innermost heart that the good Father, whom 
they thus professed to worship, would bless them, one 
and all, with the true spirit of love to him and love 
to their brothers. A Catholic gentleman, on deck with 
us, took the favorable opportunity to preach us a ser- 



12 -AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 

mon from his point of view. We listened with due 

decorum, but were none the wiser or better for his 

painstaking. 

As we approached Liverpool we saw many little 

steamers filled with people, as on a gala day. At four 

P. M. the Custom-house officers came on board, and 

remained over two hours, opening and shutting, not 

examining, our baggage. What a farce this business 

is ! You see an officer open a hat-box filled with cigars, 

for example, he takes out a handful, puts them into 

his pocket, shuts the box, marks it all right. Another 

lifts the corners of the garments* in a trunk as if afraid 

of breaking them, looks at certain goods or wares with 

averted eyes. It is the work of an instant : down goes 

•I 
the lid, a scratch of the chalk, and on to the next. 

Perchance some honest or simple wight is carefully 
examined, and made to pay dearly for his traps, as an 
example of the justice and honor of officers. We do 
not mean English exclusively; the same game is 
played everywhere. It reminds one of the story of 
the ass which acknowledged itself the most voracious 
of animals, before King Lion, and was punished ac- 
cordingly. 

Only those who have been to sea, and been seasick, 
can imagine our thankfulness on stepping upon terra 
firma. After some running and scrambling, we suc- 
ceeded in getting a coach, and were driven to the 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 13 

Waterloo Hotel, where we obtained all creature com- 
forts at a reasonable price. 

The coupe cars are very pleasant, especially when a 
family or party of acquaintances are travelling together. 
At any rate, it is pleasanter travelling in company with 
eight than with sixty, especially if they are strangers. 
" What fine sheep ! " cries one. " See that beautiful 
clover," says another. " And those fields of grain, and 
yonder country-seat," we added, as we steamed on at a 
rapid rate. I have since asked myself if the English 
sheej), and fields, and grain, and grass were really so 
very beautiful, or only so in comparison with those of 
our less genial New England climate at the same 
season of the year. 

A friend had recommended the Taverston Hotel, in 
London. We went thither; were told they could not 
accommodate ladies. So we did the next best thing, 
viz., go to the nearest, hotel which did accommodate 
female bipeds. At the Bedford Hotel, Covent Gar- 
den, we were obliged to take a parlor, and have our 
meals sent up. However, we were well treated and 
well served. 

Friends, who had been apprised of our arrival, paid 
us a visit, and we indulged in a long chat about the 
dear ones at home. 

22(7. We rose betimes, and were as much amused 
by the Covent Garden Market as we had been dis- 



14 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

pleased at finding ourselves so near it the evening 
previous. Vegetables of all kinds, in great abundance, 
were spread out under our windows ; and flowers, 
bright flowers, sweet with the breath of spring, 
tempted the passers-by to purchase. We bought 
quite a nice bouquet for two cents. A number of 
women sat on low crickets in the street, shelling peas, 
from five A. M. to three P. M. How I wished that 
some of our inventive Yankee geniuses would furnish 
them with one of the new machines, to get through 
their work quicker ! Do not say that machines take 
work from the poor. Every step in progress helps 
the poor. 

Hiding is both pleasant and cheap in London. 
One can hire a cab, to accommodate two persons, at 
one shilling for the first, and sixpence for every suc- 
ceedino; mile. We availed ourselves of such a con- 
venience, visited Westminster Abbey and the Palace, 
and went into the houses of lords and commons. 

Were invited to drive through Hyde and Regent's 
Parks. The Prince of Wales and his wife bowed very 
graciously, either to us or our coachman, it made little 
odds which. We visited Mme. Trouseau's exhibition 
of wax figures. They are indeed wonderful for their 
life-like appearance. The Sleeping Beauty breathes 
quite naturally. An old man sits reading a news- 
paper. He looks so life-like that visitors take great ^ 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. . 15 

pains not to step on his toes. Mme. T. has amassed a 
handsome fortune, and deserves much credit for her 
skill and industry. 

A pair of gold-bowed spectacles, carelessly left upon 
the table by their owner, and carefully put upon the 
mantel shelf by a waiter, spoke for the honesty of the 
servants of Hotel Bedford. We found the prices at 
the hotel fair. 

Started for Brussels next morning. Had a great 
turn-out on the Belgian frontier, and much parade 
about unlocking, relocking, and chalking our baggage. 
Thinking to be accommodated more to our liking than 
we had been in London, we told the driver of the 
omnibus to take us to a first class hotel. The fellow 
took us to the jBrst class, as we supposed by the way 
they charged. First, we had to pay him more for the 
omnibus because we went to the Bellevue ; everybody 
did. Being tired, and intending to remain but one 
night, we made the best of it. Our room was hand- 
some, and our bed furnished with a huge plumeau^ 
large, soft pillows, &c. They charged an exorbitant 
price for two bougies^ neither of which was lighted, 
which we forgot to take with us, and a cake of soap, 
also for service, of which we received almost nothing, 
in addition to very tall charges for the room, supper, 
and breakfast. The Royal Palace is next to the hotel. 
Perhaps strangers have to j)ay for proximity to royalty. 
Let those have the pleasure- who like it. 



16 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 

Early next morning we strolled about the city. 
My attention was arrested by the milk wagons, with 
their bright copper cans, drawn by dogs, and the neat 
appearance of the domestics, with their pretty, white 
caps. In the market were pots of whiteweed, inter- 
mingled with pots of beautiful roses, carnations, &c. 
A fine bouquet cost only a few cents, and a plant in a 
handsome pot not much more. 

We set out again at half past nine, intending to put 
through to Frankfort, the place of our destination. 
Another examination of trunks at Cologne ; after which 
we went into a restaurant, had a nice soup, cold veal, 
wine and bread, as much as we wanted, for forty cents 
each. We had a few spare minutes, which we spent 
in the Cathedral. What a master work! and will it 
ever be finished ? It has already cost millions. 
Visitors are expected to contribute towards its com- 
pletion. Our ride along the Rhine by moonlight was 
delightful. 

In Frankfort, a woman manifested surprise that I, 
being a native-born American, was white. Another, 
to whom my husband said, " I have brought my wife," 
exclaimed, " O, I must see her ! Is she black ? " 
Rather singular remaiks, inasmuch as many Ameri- 
cans visit Frankfort. An old lady friend, having heard 
that American women are very lazy, and do nothing 
but sit in a rocking-chair all day, manifested consider- 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 17 

able anxiety about me, which ended in presenting me 
with a dozen linen towels, that I might have something 
to do. She was quite taken aback, when, on attempt- 
ing to show me how to hem them, she found I was 
quite au fait with my needle. 

We had several charming drives at a small expense. 
Thirty-two cents an hour for the first three hours, and 
less for successive ones. There is no danger of being 
overcharged, for the tariff is in all the vehicles, and it 
is easy to remember that a gulden is forty cents, and a 
kreutzer is two thirds of a cent. 

There are some very narrow streets in the old part 
of the city. 

The. baby show, on the promenades which surround 
the old city, outdoes Barnum. There are the little 
ones of all classes of society, playing in the heaps of 
sand left for that purpose ; feeding the swans and 
ducks in the pond, or weaving garlands of leaves from 
the fine trees which shade and ornament the walks. 
Such a commingling of rich and poor is a pleasing 
sight. The little one in white garments, trimmed with 
lace, beside the barefooted urchin in calico frock and 
pinafore, and both innocent of the social distinction 
which exists between them. ISTow and then a servant 
girl, puffed up with the glory of her master's family, 
strives to keep her charge aloof from the common 
herd. But the little one asserts its right to sit on the 



18 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

ground with the others, and she, compelled to yield, 
complacently draws her knitting from her pocket, and 
leaves baby to enjoy the only republicanism of its life, 
viz., that of its infancy. 

During our few days' stay in the city, we went 
regularly to the twelve o'clock parade, to hear the fine 
martial music. In the motley crowd assembled were 
barons, bankers, and ladies, workmen and beggars, 
chimney-sweepers and peasants, and children, en Tnasse. 
Of the latter, some danced and hopped to the sound 
of the music ; others beat time with a precision truly 
astonishing ; and not a few went through all the mo- 
tion§ of some one musician on whom they fixed their 
eyes. And this they repeat day after day, while .listen- 
ing to the best of music. It is no wonder, then, that 
those who devote themselves to the study of music in 
after life become so thorough. We were surprised to 
hear a little fellow of nine years name the different 
pieces as they were played, and warmly discuss the 
merits of those he liked best. 

Cronberg is much frequented, not only for its fine, 
pure air, but also for its picturesqueness and beauty. 
Situated on an isolated peak of the Taunus Mountains, 
it commands an extensive view of the plain, and 
Frankfort in the distance on one side, Konigstein 
and Falconstein higher up the chain, and the moun- 
tains beyond on the other; whilst its old castle, 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 19 

chestnut forests, charming walks and drives, and the 
mineral waters of the valley below, offer great attrac- 
tions to those desirous of gaining strength by living 
in the open air. 

Within a few years fashion has invaded this quiet 
and lovely retreat ; hotels and villas have sprung up, 
and the simplicity and rusticity of its inhabitants are 
fast wearing away. We sought rooms in Cronberg, 
but finding none which suited both purse and fancy, 
we en o;aged board in the Hotel Shutzenhof for the 
summer. 

On the 30th we went to the Frankfort market, viz., 
to see a number of w^omen, mostly old women, sitting 
in the street, selling vegetables, &c. Poor things! 
there they are in the hot sun or pouring rain. Some 
of them walk eight or ten miles, with baskets of fruit 
or vegetables, to the weight of fifty pounds, on their 
heads. 

On paying our bill at the Hotel Schwan, we found 
that we should have done better at the Pariser Hof. 

We took the omnibus for Cronberg ; it was a ride 
of three hours, for which we paid twenty cents each, 
including baggage. 

We had chosen the upper rooms of the Schutzen- 
hof, on account of the balcony to which they opened, 
and the glorious prospect it afforded ; but on our 
taking possession, the rats asserted their rights to the 



20 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

premises so strongly, that we were obliged to yield, 
and migrate to the lower regions. 

The landlady, a very dressy, talkative, would-be- 
polite individual, pretended to be quite surprised ; 
it was the first time any one had heard rats in -her 
house, she said, casting an ominous look at our new 
sole-leather trunk, for which we had just paid ten 
dollars, as if to hint the possibility of our having 
brought them with us : however, she made amends for 
our disappointment by giving us tuio rooms below, 
both neatly furnished, but carpetless ; for which, in- 
cluding service, and the washing of bed linen and 
towels, we paid six gulden — two dollars and forty 
cents — 2^^^* week. 

We usually had breakfast and supper in the garden. 
The Germans take strong coffee and rolls at seven or 
eight in the morning, and rye bread and butter at 
ten. We dined with a French lady, her children, a 
Nassau count, and a few others. The dinner consisted 
of five or six courses, and cost forty-two kreutzers, or 
twenty-eight cents, each ; good red wine was thirty 
kreutzers the bottle extra. 

The French lady was the widow of an English 
physician ; she had lived several years in Italy, and 
was an interesting and agreeable person ; one of her 
four children was dangerously ill. 

The air was so invigorating that we were enabled 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 21 

to walk long distances, and generally came home with 
bouquets, which we had gathered on our way — salvia, 
bachelor's buttons, forget-me-nots, daisies, foxglove, 
&c., — most beautiful in their uncultivated simplicity. 
But the roses, the fragrant roses, of all shades, colors, 
and sizes ! I never ceased to admire them, as well as 
the taste of those who cultivated them. The Germans 
are lovers of flowers, and make their habitations, how- 
ever humble, cheerful with bright geraniums, carna- 
tion pinks, &G. Almost every window is filled with 
boxes and pots of flowers. We inquired why cows 
were used for field labor, and were told that they 
could climb steep places with more ease than horses ; 
besides, it was thought that a moderate share of work 
did not harm them. We were forced to acknowledge 
that the cows, generally speaking, were fat and in 
good condition, and I could but think that if left to 
choose their lot for themselves, they would prefer 
v/orking in the open air to being stall-fed, as is the 
custom with those not used for labor. 

The good manners of the common people are very 
striking, particularly to Americans, who are unaccus- 
tomed to raise the hat, or pay respect to other than 
acquaintances. In Germany the veriest rustic and the 
school-boy lift their hat (if they have one on) and 
salute you with Guten Morgen (good morning), Guten 
Tag (good day), Gesegnete Mahlzeit (may your food 



22 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

be blessed to you), &c., all which is very pleasant, 
because it is spontaneous and natural. 

June \.tli. We had a magnificent thunder-storm, 
during which our hostess and the French lady hid 
themselves under a bed ; the latter in her fright forgot 
to take her little ones with her. 

A letter from home ; the hand-writing is that of a 
dear friend ; hastily we break the seal, and peruse its 
contents. What a wonderful little messenger is a 
letter ; destined to fill one with joy or sorrow ! Our 
French lady was in great excitement at the dinner 
table, and positively refused to take her jDlace unless 
the landlord would dine with us, because there were 
thirteen at table ; she declared that thirteen was an 
unlucky number, and that some one of us would die 
before the end of the year ; the fourteenth comforted 
her, and in a few minutes she was gay as a French 
woman. 

A drive of two hours took us to Soden — a water- 
ing-place at the foot of the Taunus. Its mineral 
waters, fine hotels, and pleasant surroundings, attract 
many visitors during the summer. 

One day a gentleman called our attention to a party 
of young ladies who were taking beer in the street 
in front of a beef-house ; he said they belonged to a 
private school in Frankfort. We wondered why they 
did not go into the garden beside the house. They 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. *23 

were good-looking, well-dressed misses, and had prob- 
ably walked out from the city. 

A dress-maker came to my room, took my measure, 
came again to try on my dress (English calico), and 
again to bring it, finished, even to the loops by which 
to hang it up: it was well made; price, seventy-five 
cents ! 

We had two and a half dozen clothes washed for 
forty cents. 

Riding into the city on the 14th, we saw the Aus- 
trian soldiers marching out, and were told that 
the Frankforters were very demonstrative of their 
affection to them, whilst they treated the Prussian 
soldiers with coldness and reserve. 

We started for Baden-Baden. What a lovely picture 
the Bergstrasse presented, with its range of mountains, 
some covered with vines, and others wdth grain, with 
coiffure of splendid trees and old castles, and now and 
then a villa or a church peeping out from some pro- 
jecting point ; on the other side of the road richly 
cultivated plains. It rained hard, yet the peasant 
women did not cease their field labors. All along the 
railroad are pretty guard-houses, wdth neat flower and 
vegetable gardens, and every now and then a soldier 
standing stiff, erect, looking, for all the world, like the 
tin soldiers which stand just where they are put. 

At one station I observed an extra bowing, bending, 



24 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

scraping, lifting of hats, &g. One short Frenchman 
manoeuvred hke a dancing-jack, while conversing with 
a tall, good-looking gentleman in hunter's dress, and 
boots that evidently had never seen Jaque's famous 
blacking. We learned afterwards that all the bows 
and attentions had been expended upon said hunter, 
he beino: brother to the Grand Duke of Hessen, and 
afterwards commander of the troops of the smaller 
German states against Prussia. He got into the 
car next to ours, and so he lost the honor of our 
company. 

Arrived in Baden-Baden, we were met by a friend, 
who trotted us about in the rain until we begged for 
a landing-place, and were conducted to a Hotel Garni, 
the Stahlbad ; here we were offered a large, handsome 
parlor and side room, with all the fixings, for twelve 
guldens per week. Baden must be seen to appreciate 
it. Highly favored by nature and beautified by art, 
it is without doubt one of the handsomest places in 
Europe, a little paradise in itself. It may be of inter- 
est to some of our readers to know that in the 
Driekonign, where we dined, we had four courses and 
a bottle of wine for thirty-two cents each. The food 
was of good quality and well prepared. 

In the afternoon we walked to the Lichtenthal Con 
vent. The chapel is six hundred years old ; in it are 
two marble figures of the Counts of Baden lying in 
state. * • 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 25 

Oa our way back we stepped into a garden for our 
sup23er of bread, butter, cheese, and beer, at a cost 
of twelve kreutzers each. Returned in season to hear 
the band from eight to ten. 

]S"ext day we bought large, luscious cherries at four 
cents per quart. Having been told that living in 
Baden was very expensive, we were agreeably sur- 
prised to find things so comparatively cheap : however, 
it was the early part of the season, the fashionables 
had not arrived, and those who live upon strangers' 
purses had not set up their trumps. 

We celebrated the 17th by making a visit in 
Carlsruhe, about two hours from Baden-Baden by 
rail. We had a sumptuously prepared dinner, went 
to the gallery of paintings, which we hurried through, 
getting a glance of many and seeing nothing. That 
afternoon troops were ordered to Frankfort. Then 
commenced a running of multitudes through the 
streets, and great excitement. Looking from the win- 
dow, we saw a soldier fall on the sidewalk ; he was 
deadly pale ; we thought him in a swoon, but he died 
within an hour. They said that, fearing to be late, he 
had run too quickly after eating. It was very sad, 
and yet perhaps the poor fellow was thus spared much 
misery. A seeming evil often proves a lasting good ; 
the kind Father suffers not one to perish unheeded. 
There was a talk of war ; soldiers continued to run, 



26 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

women and girls discussed polities, mothers trembled 
for their sons, and housekeepers' faces lengthened, as 
they spoke of the quartering of soldiers. Notwith- 
standing the dnxiety and confusion of the many, mul- 
titudes went to the Fair, and kept up a sort of jubilee 
in the midst of the outcry of war. Towards night 
we returned to Baden. An old woman in the cars 
talked politics with much animation and good sense. 

On the 18th there was an inspection of horses for 
the military. For a wonder, there were no gamblers 
at the tables; the game of nations at the risk of 
human life interested them more, for the time being, 
than roulette or cards. 

We had a pleasant ride to the Castle of Eberstein ; 
the road up the mountain is broad and smooth ; the 
trees, among w^hich is the larch, are luxuriant; fox- 
glove predominates among the wild flowers. 

A pretty young woman, who ajDpeared to realize 
the charming site of her dwelling, showed us through 
the castle, and enjoyed the view of the little world 
below the balcony on which we stood, as much as 
if she saw it for the first time. It is the business of 
said young woman to wait upon strangers ; she has 
no right to demand a fee, but will not decline to ac- 
cept a present. Returning by way of Gernsbach, 
we took a shorter but miserable road down the 
mountain. 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 27 

The Greek cliurcli in Baden, built by Prince Sturza, 
is one of the attractions. It is said that this prince 
was driven from his Danubian principalities on account 
of his tyranny ; he brought immense riches with him 
to Baden. His only son, fourteen years of age, died 
at a pension in Paris, and he built this church at an 
expense of one million of florins, or four hundred 
thousand dollars, as a mausoleum. The city presented 
him with the land on which it stands, on the summit 
of a hill. He has also to maintain a Greek minister, 
whose house is near the church. We frequently saw 
the prince — a little old man ; his palace is opposite 
the Stahlbad ; he drove out almost daily. 

Gambling was going on briskly on the 19th. Women 
with silver hair and trembling hands, and feeble old 
mfen, just tottering into their graves, played with an 
eagerness truly appalling. It is a deep study for the 
physiognomist to stand behind the gamblers and mark 
the various expressions of their faces as they gain 
or lose. We were told of an Italian music teacher 
who won heaps of gold, left playing for some years, 
during which time he lived like a nobleman, then 
played again, lost all that he had, and was obliged 
to resume teaching. 

At dinner everybody talked politics, and everybody 
knew what ought to be done. It seemed to us that 
the less they knew, — that is, the male part of creation, 



28 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

— the louder they talked, and the harder they thumped 
their fists on the table. 

From the Fremersberg and Jagd House we had a 
fine view ; saw the Rhine and Strasburg in the 
distance. 

22c?. Bought a plate of strawberries for four cents. 
Paid forty cents per dozen for washing. Walking out, 
we were caught in a heavy shower, and took refuge 
in a coachman's house ; it looked very tidy ; his wife, 
quite a young woman, who had eight small children, 
said she had been hoeing potatoes all day, and was 
sorry to be driven in by the rain. There were pots 
of beautiful roses and pinks in the windows, which 
looked as if well cared for. How can one woman, 
with such a family, work in the field, and find time 
to take care of house-plants, I said to myself? 

On the 24th we went to the old castle ; the ruins 
are interesting, and the jDrospect from the balconies 
charming. It seemed as if fairy hands were at work 
trying to make one site more beautiful than another. 
Here you have a crumbling wall covered with delicate 
mosses ; there a tree spreading out its limbs from 
under huge rocks, all green with ivy ; again an arch- 
way, a flight of steps, an open space, a huge old tree, 
and everywhere birds chanting their hymns of praise. 

From the old castle we descended through the 
woods to the so-called new castle, which is built 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 29 

Upon a Roman foundation, more than a thousand 
years old. 

The Dagobert's Tower is in a remarkably good state 
of preservation, and looks as if it might stand another 
thousand years. The lower windows of the castle 
are too prison-like. Of the two castles, the old is 
much more interesting than the new. 

The stores were opened as soon as church was over, 
and things exposed for sale as on week days. A lady 
passed us on the promenade, whose dress we could 
but admire — white lace over muslin, trimmed with 
delicate straw-colored ribbon, and looped up with 
gold clasps ; under skirt richly embroidered : it was 
simple, tasteful, and rich at the same time. They called 
her Countess something, I have forgotten what. 
Counts, dukes, princes, &c., are as common in Baden- 
Baden as captain and squire in our good New Eng- 
land States. 

We looked into the chapel, and the sight of homely 
pictures, and crucifixes, the virgin, and fat babies, 
intended to represent Christ and St. John, did not 
inspire us with the same elevated and holy feelings 
as the woods through which we went in going to 
the castle. A funeral procession passed our house; 
men walked two by two behind the hearse, and were 
followed by women ; they told us that men followed 
the hearse when a man is buried, and women a woman; 



30 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

in tliis way one can tell whether a brother or sister 
has been called to the spirit land. I was introduced 
to a lady who had an infant bound in swaddling 
clothes, and fastened to a j^illow trimmed with lace ; 
said lady seemed to think her baby a great curiosity, 
notwithstanding that every house swarmed with speci- 
mens of the same sort and in the same rig. 

We could but look with astonishment at our Ameri- 
can ladies, with their long trails of white muslin or 
costly silk sweeping the promenades and streets ; it 
seemed as if they could not make show enough ; 
the dress of some was truly ridiculous, for they car- 
ried not only a jeweller's store, but also a fancy goods 
establishment, about their person. Methinks the retail 
houses are indebted to said ladies for advertising their 
goods in this way. 

A certain German gentleman of our acquaintance, 
whom we met daily, never failed to ask what we had 
eaten, where we had been, where we were going, 
whom we had seen, &c., in regular categorical style. 
We tried to find a chiropodist, and were referred to 
a barber, as the person in question ; he did his w^ork 
very carefully, very cheap, but not very well, being 
much more political than surgical. 

We never tired of walking in the Lichtenthal Alley ; 
the small river Murg runs along its side, and is spanned 
by pretty bridges, leading to the tasteful houses and 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 31 

gardens on the opposite side. Besides, there are 
plenty of seats where the pedestrian may rest under 
shady trees. The gentleman with us pointed out the 
nobility as they drove past us, and made some remarks 
not very complimentary to Americans. He said, 
among other things, that one could recognize them 
in an instant by the extravagance of their dress, and 
their aping the manners of the nobility, into whose 
society they tried to force themselves. 

Perhaps I might as well mention the necessity of 
having plenty of small coins in the pocket for the 
various individuals who expect you to give them a 
trifle. Porters, waiters, carriers, hackmen, all require 
your mite, and really it does not amount to so very 
much, and then they bow so civilly, smile so sweetly, 
and wish you God speed so heartily, that you feel all 
the better for having given them something. We had 
been quite satisfied at the Stahlbad, until, receiving 
our bill on leaving, we saw that they had scratched out 
the price written for breakfasts (which we took in the 
Jiouse), and increased it threefold ; however, we paid 
it without grumbling ; it is not worth while to make 
a fuss about trifles while travelling. 

On the 26th we went to the grand duke's palace in 
Carlsruhe. In the dining-hall were a number of round 
tables, with six chairs white and gold, walls white and 
gold, large glittering chandeliers, white candles with 



82 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

gilded ornaments, marble statues, elegant floors of 
inlaid polished wood, numerous apartments of various 
colors, — red, blue, yellow, pink, &c., — with tapestry- 
furniture, and everything to match. The audience- 
room is very handsome, with its red velvet embroid- 
ered with gold. Notwithstanding the magnificence 
and luxury, there is so much harmony in the arrange- 
ment of the rooms, that they strike one as simply 
elegant, without the gorgeous show which we some- 
times see in the dwellings of our wealthy people at 
home, where all arts, sorts, colors, and styles are 
thrown together heterogeneously in one room. 

That night we slept in a private house by invitation. 
On going to bed we found nothing to cover us but a 
feather bed, which they called plumeau ; the room 
was small, and nearly filled by the two beds provided 
for us ; the weather intensely hot ; and no sheet, noth- 
ing but a huge, soft, warm, downy feather bed. I 
was half vexed at what seemed to me- the discourte- 
ousness of our hostess ; she might have known better, 
I sputtered, as my wiser half cuddled down undei: 
his mountain of feathers, or down, complacently ad- 
vising me to do the same, as it was an old German 
custom. I paced the room for a time while he slept ; 
then I sat down on the bed, and at length, worn out 
by the fatigues of the day, I lay down, tossed, turned, 
pushed my downy cover this way and that, trying 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 33 

to imagine that I had a sheet over me; but it was 
of no avail, for the plumeaii warmly remonstrated. 
I was on the point of lighting the candle, to read 
through the night, when the notes of a bird struck 
my ear. "Is that a nightingale?" I asked. "I hear 
nothing," answered my sleepy companion, with a 
gape ; " but if you hear a bird it is a nightingale." 
He went on to express some doubts, which he wound, 
up with a slight snore. 

We went to Heidelberg on the 28th. Rode up to 
the castle ; stopped at the Wolfsbrunnen, where they 
raise trout; saw them in their various stages, from 
the eggs to the fish of two years. Ordered one for 
our dinner, which we ate under a tree, and for which 
we paid more than for our five courses at table d'hote 
in Baden. Then we went to the Molkencure ; it was 
midday, and very warm. Our driver sat hat in hand 
in the hot sun. We asked why he did not wear a 
straw hat, which would be much lighter and cooler 
than his. He replied, that it was not allowed ; a 
coachman had been fined five guldens (two dollars) 
for wearing a black straw hat, though his leather one 
made his head ache. Hearing such things rouses one's 
ire against despotic governments. One almost wishes 
that the dukes or other grandees were forced to take 
the coachmen's place a few days, to see how they 
would relish it. 

3 



34 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

What shall we say of Heidelberg Castle ? Who 
has not heard of this Alhambra of Germany? It was 
commenced at the end of the thirteenth century, 
partly destroyed by the French in 1689, and partly 
repaired a few years after. In 1764 Carl Theodore 
intended to restore it fully, but it was struck by light- 
ning, and so badly burned that no further attempt was 
made to repair it ; since then this wonderful monu- 
ment of architectural beauty lies in ruins. A castellan 
lives in the castle, has the care of the garden and 
grounds, and gives all necessary information to stran- 
gers, "Who sometimes remain the whole day on the 
premises : there is a garden for refreshments, and bands 
of music perform regularly at stated times. Carriages 
and donkeys are always in readiness, for no one would 
for a moment think of going to Heidelberg without 
seeing the castle almost the first thing. Heidelberg 
lies on the Neckar, in a valley between the mountains 
and that river. Its celebrated university contains 
some eight hundred students, from different parts of 
the world. 

The 29th found us in Mainz. We visited the Cathe- 
dral, begun in 978 ; it is celebrated in the history of 
architecture and statuary, and contains many statues 
commemorative of the crowning of the German kings 
by the Bishops of Mainz. 

The market-place looked well ; long rows of women^ 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 35 

almost uniformly dressed in dark-blue calico, with 
snow-white kerchiefs upon their heads, were sitting at 
low benches, on which were clean, handsome vegeta- 
bles, baskets of brilliant cherries, bouquets, cut flowers, 
pots of flowers, breadstuff's, &c. Meat here, as else- 
where, was generally sold in stores. 

After a pleasant drive through the city, we returned 
to Frankfort, a distance of about two and a half hours 
by rail. The principal streets of the city were filled 
with soldiers, through whose midst we actually wedged 
our way to the hotel " Drexel." Here they gave us a 
front room, informing us that the house was filled with 
military officers. It was very exciting to look down 
from the window upon the mass of living beings be- 
low, and opposite upon eager men, women, and chil- 
dren, stretching their necks out of the windows, and 
straining their eyes like ourselves. The noise and 
confusion continued until about one o'clock, and at 
four in the morning the bugle was sounded ; then fol- 
lowed drums and horns. Again we looked down uj^on 
five or six thousand soldiers. How sad it was to think 
that all those men, aod those fine horses, were to be 
driven through the country under a burning sun, 
the men to kill their brother men, or be killed them- 
selves. And the horses to be sacrificed, and all for 
what ? To gratify the ambition or vanity of the few 
who value the people only as far as they subserve 
their own ends. 



36 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

We dined with from fifty to sixty gentlemen, mostly 
officers, and I being the only female in the room. But 
a lady is not embarrassed in such a position, because 
German gentlemen are too polite and well behaved to 
notice that she is but one among the many. Our din- 
ner was excellent ; prices more reasonable than at the 
Schwan. 

July \st. We were glad to be in Cronberg again. 
Soldiers had been quartered in the Schuzenhof during 
our absence, and the widow's children had much to 
relate of the sports they had had. A soldier in uni- 
form always fascinates children, who are sure to 
maka friends with him if they can.' 

Men and women were seen in all directions, laden 
with baskets, jugs, and bottles, in answer to a call 
from the crier, who stated that many soldiers were in 
Cronenthal without provisions. 

July ^th. The rain poured in torrents. Peasants 
worried about their cherries, upon the sale of which 
they were depending. Sad tales were related of the 
sufferings of such soldiers as were obliged to sleep 
without protection from the rain. Many Austrians 
died. 

The twilight continued very long. We seldom had 
occasion to light our candle before nine o'clock. 

I had some idea of turning quack doctor, if the rain 
continued so that 1 could not ramble in the open air. 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 37 

I had been very successful with our landlady, curing 
her toothache with camphor ; then a sore finger with 
Griswold's salve, and afterwards prescribing cotton 
batting and arnica for rheumatism. It operated like a 
charm, and I immediately obtained the title of Frau 
Doctorin. If it had not been that I was obliged to 
find medicine gratis, I think I should have hung out 
my shingle at once. 

We were called to the window, at half past seven 
A. M., to see a Catholic funeral procession. A man, 
bearing a long pole, surmounted by a cross, and long, 
black streamers, was followed by numerous school 
children, all bareheaded. Then came a man bearing a 
black banner, on which was a white cross ; men carry- 
ing a coffin-rest, followed by eight men bearing the 
corpse ; after them a number of men dressed in black, 
with hats on ; then the priest, in white surplice, with 
a cap on his head, an altar-boy on either side. Many 
women, handsomely dressed in black, and bareheaded, 
followed. 

The war news was the chief topic of discourse. 
The schoolmaster, doctor, lawyer, and many others 
met regularly every evening at our hotel, to discuss 
the affairs of the country. O, how brave they were 
in talhing^ and how well they understood the politics 
of nations ! The few who sided with Prussia were 
quite elated- with her success, and talked all the louder, 



38 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

flattering themselves that they were helping. The 
women folks and children were employed in making 
lint for the soldiers. It reminded me of the heaps we 
made at home. 

On Sunday, the 8th, we had an opportunity of 
seeing the end of the village fair, which seemed to us 
to be very lively, though people said it was very dull, 
owinsf to the war. There were some two or three hun- 
dred people, mostly villagers, collected in a jjleasant 
grove near the castle. Many were seated at tables 
under the trees, while others danced in an open 
pavilion put up for the purpose. They danced 
heartily and well, and refreshed themselves at inter- 
vals with coffee, beer, cider, wine, bread and butter, 
cheese, and sausages, and what they call cake ; that is, 
dough rolled very thin, and baked with sugar and 
cinnamon, or fruit scattered over it. The latter is 
excellent, more savory and more healthy than American 
fruit pies, with their greasy, half-baked crust. Besides 
the dancing, there were several carousals with miisic, 
where large and small children enjoyed their ride on 
wooden horses. The booths in the narrow streets 
tempted the passers-by to feel in their pockets, if 
peradventure a few more coppers remained. 

Monday more rain. People began to talk of loss 
of crops. They said such cool rain was quite un 
common at that season. 



AN AMEEICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 39 

Great excitement about Frankfort, which was 
reported to be filled with soldiers, expecting an at- 
tack. 

We went into the Yilla Rice, the handsomest in 
Cronberg. It is a showy concern, commanding a fine 
view, and was built at the cost of one million florins. 
Some of the rooms are finished off with leathern tap- 
estry. One is painted a la Pompeii. Drapery and 
furniture all in keeping with the different rooms. 
Said M. R. is a merchant, and has houses in London, 
Calcutta, and Frankfort. 

It was very interesting to observe the flocks of sheep 
pasturing in various places. A flock is driven by one 
man and two dogs. The intelligence of the dogs is 
surprising. The shepherd says, for instance, " This 
way," pointing to the road which he wishes to take, 
and the dogs run behind, and at the sides of the flock, 
driving them as directed. When the shepherd says, 
" Halt," the dogs cease to bark and run, except to keep 
the sheep together. The flock is composed of sheep be- 
longing to different individuals, who pay the shepherd 
for taking care of them. People are glad to have 
them in their fields, and often pay the shepherd a 
trifle for allowing them to remain a while on their 
land. 

Another terrible thunder-shower, and our fat hostess 
ensconced herself under a beer hogshead, where she 



40 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

fell asleep, while the poor chamber-maid, a girl of six- 
teen, whom she had taken into the cellar with her for 
protection, stood shuddering with cold. 

The sick child grew worse daily, yet she seldom 
cried, and never complained. Every one who noticed 
her was astonished at the patience, fortitude, and char- 
acter displayed in that little child of seven years. 
We saw plainly that she could not live, but her 
mother did not realize how far gone she was. 

On the 19th the Prussian soldiers were quartered 
in Frankfort, and the inhabitants were ordered to 
furnish them with coffee and bread for breakfast, for 
dinner soup, and one pound of meat, with half a bottle 
of wine and eight cigars for each man, and soup or 
beer w^ith bread for supper. As to the officers, they 
helped themselves to the best the house afforded, even 
demanding champagne. The people feared to refuse 
them anything. In many cases they took quiet posses- 
sion of a house for the time being. A lady of our 
acquaintance, finding forty soldiers too much of a 
family for her, started off, leaving her two maids to 
wait upon them. Another lady had a fine span of 
horses, of which she had been very careful ; and the 
Prussians, appreciating their worth, took them from 
her. No doubt the common soldiers liked their quar- 
ters. The pay of a Prussian soldier — five cents per 
day — in war time is doubled. 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 41 

On the evening of the 21st there was a splendid 
broad, pale, silvery semicircle in the heavens — a 
sort of rainbow without the prismatic colors. It 
faded and returned at intervals. The moon shone 
faintly at the time, and there was a slight, drizzling 
rain, though few heavy clouds. The bow extended 
from north-east to south-west. 

People came from Frankfort, saying that the Prus- 
sians threatened to plunder and burn the city, if they 
did not receive twenty-five million florins from its 
inhabitants within two days, and that Rothschild and 
others refused to pay said sum. 

One morning we were awakened by the lamenta- 
tions of the French lady. "My child! my child! my 
Helena ! " 

She is dead, we said, instinctively. On seeing ns 
the mother exclaimed, " Do not tell me that my child 
is dead ! She is not dead ; she promised me to live." 

It seems that the mother found her little one sitting 
in bed, holding a tumbler of water with the grasp 
of death. 

Arrangements were made for burying the child be- 
side its father in Frankfort. The mother knelt by the 
corpse in prayer, while three men stood waiting, their 
rough faces suffused with tears. 

A carriage was at the door, and -all ready, when a 
messenger came to say that the corpse could not be 



42 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

carried into the city without a certificate from the civil 
authorities, and said certificate would cost more than 
the widow could afford to pay, in addition to the tax 
required from each town through which the corpse 
was to be carried. So the body remained in the house. 

July 26if/i. We rose stt five, and prepared ourselves 
to follow the body of our little Helena to its resting- 
place. The coffin, on which burned a taper, beside a 
wreath and a crucifix, was placed on the ground near 
the door of the hotel. A young woman held a plate, 
covered with a white napkin, on which were several 
lemons. The mother was in agony to see the coffin 
on the ground, open to the gaze of the passers-by. 
We had to wait a long time for the priest, and when 
he came, his manners were cold and indifferent. He 
mumbled over some unintelligible words, swung incense 
a few times, sprinkled a few drops of holy water uj^on 
the coffin, pocketed the lemons, and then led off the 
procession, of which we made a part. The physician 
excused himself, saying it was very unpleasant for 
him to follow one of his own patients to the grave. 

Arrived at the burial-ground, the priest hurried 
through the sei'vice as quickly as possible. A little 
more incense, another sprinkling of holy water, more 
unintelligible mumbling, to which his boys responded, 
and all was over.' A wooden cross, with the name, 
" Helena," marks the spot. 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 43 

The political condition of Frankfort took strong 
hold of its citizens. An editor died suddenly; a 
banker shot himself; the mayor, a worthy person and 
much esteemed, hung himself. The people wished to 
make some demonstration at the burial of the latter, 
but were forbidden by Prussiandom. 

'l^th. In attempting to buy gooseberries of a child 
on the street, I heard her. brother whisper to her, 
" Sie sind Fremden " (they are strangers) ; " ask more." 
We were told that strangers were recognizable by 
their travelling-bags, the shape of their boots and their 
hats, as well as by their looks and speech. 

The chestnut trees are abundant in Cronberg. In 
one of our rambles we measured an extraordinarily 
large one. It was twenty-four and a half feet in 
circumference near the ground, and sixteen feet at a 
distance of six feet from the roots. It is supposed to 
be at least five hundred years old, and looks thrifty 
and vigorous still. 

We rode into the city in the omnibus, and were much 
amused by hearing the market women talk politics. 
They talked all over — hands, feet, head, eyes, and 
elbows, — the tongue naturally ruling the other mem- 
bers. When they had somewhat exhausted their 
political knowledge, they began upon physicians. 
Among other things, one said that the doctors would 
not go to common people, but were always ready for 



44 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

the counts — so they called other classes; to which 
another responded, "It would be better for us if they 
never would come," which produced a roar of laughter. 
Three of us went into a saloon in the city, took choco- 
late, bread, and cake, as much as we could eat, and a 
good-sized piece of apricot cake to take home, for all 
which we paid fifty-eight cents. 

On our returning home we could not cease to admire 
the profusion of flowers in the windows, from the upper 
story down, on the piazza, in front of the houses — 
everywhere flowers ; flowers for the rich, flowers for 
the poor ; flowers for the tailor, shoemaker, potter, and 
cobbler, as well as for my lady and the gardener. 
There is something very pleasant in this love of flowers 
and children, which influences the heart of the com- 
mon people, and makes them cordial and warm, where 
Americans are distant and cold. 

How often have we regretted that New England 
farmers in general do not allow their wives and daugh- 
ters a little patch of land for a flower-garden ! 

On our way home we were so much entertained by 
the market women, that we stopped in Eschborn, and 
took supper with them. 

August 1st. We luxuriated in large, sweet, black 
mulberries, at fifteen kreutzers — ten cents — per large 
soup-plate, which, with the excellent bread we got in 
Cronberg, made good suppers for us. Then we went 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 45 

out to listen to the larks — dear, sweet birds ! What 
a wonderful volume of melody they pour forth while 
soaring upwards ! 

One day we went into the studio of two young 
artists — a large room, in which were two small beds, 
close to the wall, a wardrobe, several pairs of boots 
and shoes lying under a table, a stove, to which a 
small brown dog was tied by a string. A female dog 
put out her head from under one of the beds and 
growled, fearing we had some fell intent upon her 
young family in their snug quarters. Guns and gam- 
ing apparatus hung against the wall on one side, and 
pipes of different lengths, colors, and sizes on the other. 
Boxes of cigars, old books, old chairs, sketches, and 
pictures seemed to have no particular place assigned 
them. A small landscape, representing a group of 
villagers around a table, was on the easel. The artist, 
a fine-looking young man, was to have about two thou- 
sand florins (eight hundred dollars) for it. The frame 
was very handsome — cost him fifteen gulden, or six 
dollars. We thought the picture good, but could not 
conceive of its being worth that price, whilst the frame 
appeared fabulously cheap. The artist took us into 
what he called their gallery. It appeared to be filled 
with framed pictures, but they were all in fresco. We 
were deceived in a key hanging on a nail, and a broken 
pane of glass, taking them for real. 



46 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

In the eveniDg we had theatrical performance by a 
company of wandering comedians, who played remark- 
ably well, and would do credit to any theatre. We 
took reserved seats, — that is, chairs in front, — for 
which we paid eighteen kreutzers, or twelve cents each. 

Another walk to Falconstein (or the Falcon's Stone) 
tired me so much that I could not sleep ; so I beguiled 
the midnight hours by composing the following : — 

The wind blew hard on that summer's day, 

As we were going to Falconstein ; 
To me it seemed a long, long way, 

That winding up to Falconstein. 

Flowers smiled from their mossy nest 

All along the road to Falconstein, 
Urging us on to a place of rest, 

In a summer house near Falconstein. 

A bird in the sky did sweetly sing, 

Cheering us on to Falconstein ; 
'Twas a lark that made the woodland ring, 

All around the ruins of Falconstein. 

When at the village we took a seat 

Near the gray old churcli of Falconstein, 

At a landing where two roads meet, 
Cronberg and Konig, with Falconstein. 

But time passed on while here we sat 

Gazing from beautiful Falconstein 
On the plains below, in pleasing chat. 

About the castle of Falconstein. 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 47 

"Forward and onward," our guide he cried; 

" Quite near is the Castle of Falconstein." 
Then into a path we turned aside. 

And followed on through Falconstein. 

And there before us, in hold array, 

Was the only arch of Falconstein, 
Where brave old knights made great display, 

In the glorious days of Falconstein. 

We all sat down to meditate, 

Among the ruins of Falconstein, 
On the various changes in man's estate, 

As seen in the walls of Falconstein. 

We cast a last glance, then left the spot. 

What a lesson — those ruins of Falconstein ! 
Build we ever so strong, the same our lot, 

To sleep like the heroes of Falconstein. 

The winds they whispered on the breeze 

The glorious days of Falconstein ; 
And praises rang through all the trees, 

To the spirit that reigns o'er Falconstein. 

After going several times for mulberries, we were 
invited into the house, and saw the grandmother of 
the family. She was eighty-three years of age, very 
smart and chatty; boasted of doing all the knitting 
and mending of her large family without spectacles; 
gave us quite a history of her house, and its former 
noble inhabitants, whose property, after a fifteen years' 
war, was reduced so much that they were obliged to 
sell their mansion ; and in that way it came into her 



48 AN AMEEICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

possession. It was built by the "Kniglits of the 
Cross." As you open the front door, a large stone 
crucifix presents itself to view. It is ugly, although 
ornamented with bright paper flowers. The old lady 
said that her health was very good, but she could not 
go out into the garden as much as she liked to, on 
account of her lame leg. " Cannot you walk with a 
cane ? " we asked. " Indeed I would not be see7i using 
a cane," she answered. 

Went to Lahnstein, August 12, to visit our friend 
Mrs. Meyer, whose description of one day in the place 
is so good that we will give it in her own words. 

"When you visit Germany, you may have to pass 
this village, wedged in between the river and hills. 
If so, when you roll over the Lahn bridge, or bet- 
ter when you glide up the Rhine in one of the 
new steamers, keep a sharp lookout for the Lahn junc- 
tion. 

"You will see, at the right, Stolzenfels perched half 
way up the mountain, on a green, sloping shelf; at the 
left, Lahneck, frowning down froin the low spur of 
the Lahn hills, and at the junction of the two rivers, 
where the meadows grow green under their swift 
kisses, the old Johannes church, whose square tower, 
rising far above the luxuriant nut trees, holds its 
gray watch over the crumbling tombstones, set half a 
dozen centuries ago. The old tower, with its countless 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 49 

little windows, will gaze upon you with a very soulless 
expression ; but when you look down into the cluster- 
ing verdure and shady nooks at its base, think that I 
have found an endless beauty here. 

" Lying in the grass, when the opposite hills, streaked 
gray with granite, and green with shrubbery, were 
glowing in purj)le and golden mist, and the dark 
castles were melting into the dimness of evening, I've 
listened to the stories which the Lahn and Rhine, 
meeting and mingling, told of all they had seen in 
their course. While their babble floated past me, on 
and on to the ocean, I've heard the Lahn whisper of 
inexhaustible stores of metals buried in the hills whose 
base it laved ; of the jealous watch of the gnomes, 
the tiny mountain dwarfs who guard the ores ; of their 
despair when men sunk the shaft deeper and deeper 
through the wealth; of their joy when they stood 
puzzled and vexed at a break in the vein, and of their 
teasing attempts to lead their enemies astray. Listen- 
ing, I could almost see the weird sprites crouched 
upon the dripping and glistening outcroppings, their 
sneers, and grins, and distortions of rage. I seemed 
to see the slender brick chimney peering out of the 
side of the mountain as a ventilator to the swarms 
hammering in the darkness and dampness below, and 
lofty trees shaking their crowns disdainfully above the 
low-born intruder. 
4 



50 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

"The Lalni waves were often yellow with the iron 
which the rain brings down from the gulches, but they 
fraternized admirably with the waves of the Rhine, 
lucid and green with the melted snows of Switzerland. 
This whispered of Alpen Gluhen, of glacier, and gorge, 
and cataract, of the beauty of the tributary streams, 
the Main, Neckar, Nahe, of populous cities, of still 
hamlets, of palace, castle, and fortress, and of a people 
with few needs and contented minds. 

" A most charming spot for twilight fancies is the 
narrow strip of shore at the base of the Johannes 
church, when the evening shadows are purpling the 
steep slopes, and the full moon, rising behind Lahneck, 
edges the dark mass with flame, and traces cornice 
and turret in sharp relief. When Stolzenfels stands 
bathed in golden light, Marxburg towers upon its cone- 
like hill in the dim vista of the Rhine, and up the 
Lahn, the smoke of the ceaseless factory fires curls 
dreamily heavenward against a background of dark 
brown rock. 

" Come here, and thank God for the nature, and 
man for the culture, which have crowded beauty upon 
beauty in this limited space." 

On the 16th we hired a carriage for a drive; and 
what a looking tincum ! large, clumsy, old, dirty, 
rusty. The horse was strong, and the driver in a blue 
blouse — a young, healthy-looking man, with a smil- 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 51 

ing face and a smoking cigar. We started at half 
past eight A. M., and had a delightful ride along the 
Lahn. The old carriage was easy as a rocking-chair, 
and the horse went a regular, even trot, without the 
least urging. The beautiful hills were continually 
varying in form and color; here a solid rock with 
bold front and sparse vegetation, there high hills 
covered to their very summits with grape vines. They 
told us that women do most of the work in the vine- 
yards, carrying manure on their heads up those steep 
rocks, and bringing down the grapes in the same way. 
Every little patch of soil, where a few vines can grow, 
is walled up to prevent its washing down by the rains. 
How the women climb those steep places, even with 
irons on their shoes, is a wonder : nothing but the un- 
tiring industry and perseverance of a German would 
induce such an undertaking. We noticed abundance 
of wild blackberries and apple and plum trees bending 
down under the weight of fruit. We passed an estab- 
lishment where they dug away a hill, and from the 
rock brought forth iron wares as by magic power. 
The whizzing of machinery and the clinking of ham- 
mers tell what man can do with the grand, majestic 
hill which towers so many feet above his pigmy head. 
On we went to Ems, a regular fashionable watering- 
place. " Its outline, though much admired, gives a 
cramped, contracted picture of the resources and 



52 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUKOPE. 

amuscMnents of the place." Its hotels are handsome, 
and the public walks and gardens are attractive. It is 
said that living is very expensive there. On our re- 
turn we stopped at a silver smeltery, and saw numbers 
of boys and girls sorting the broken stones containing 
lead and silver. Of lead there is forty-three per cent., 
and of silver one ounce and a half to the one hundred 
pounds. The stones are washed and ground to powder 
by machinery. We returned to Lahnstein at half past 
one o'clock. Paid two and a half gulden (one dollai) 
for our ride. 

We fully agree with a writer who says, " The Duchy 
of Nassau, taken altogether, may fairly be said to con- 
tribute more than an average share towards the luxu- 
ries and comforts of mankind. Besides fine timber 
trees of oak, beech, birch, and fir, there are crops of 
grain of every sort, as well as excellent potatoes. 
Several of the w4nes, for instance, Hochheim, Eber- 
bach, Rudesheim, and Johannesberg, are the finest on 
the Rhine, while there are fruits, such as apples, pears, 
cherries, apricots, strawberries, raspberries (the lat- 
ter growing wild), &c., in the greatest abundance. 
Not only are there mines of the precious metals and 
of iron, but there is also coal. In addition to this, 
the duchy is celebrated for its mineral waters ; and 
certainly, if they be at all equal to the reputation 
they have acquired, Nassau may be said to contribute 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 53 

to mankind wliat is infinitely better than all wealth, 
viz., health. From its hills burst mineral streams of 
various descriptions, and besides the Selters, or Seltzer 
water, which is drank as a luxury in every quarter of 
the globe, there are bright, sparkling remedies pre- 
scribed for almost every disorder under the sun : for 
instance, should the reader be consumptive, or, what is 
more probable, be dyspeptic, let him hurry to Ems ; if 
he wishes to instil iron into his jaded system, and 
brace up his muscles, let him go to Langen Schwal- 
bach ; if his brain should require calming, his nerves 
soothing, and his skin softening, let him glide on to 
Schlangenbad : but if he should be rheumatic in his 
limbs, or if mercury should be running riot in his 
system, let him hasten, body and bones, to Wiesbaden, 
where, they say, by being parboiled in the Koch- 
brunnen (boiling spring), all his troubles will evaporate. 

" To these different waters of Nassau flock annually 
thousands and thousands of people ; and so celebrated 
are they for the cures which they have effected, that 
not only do people come from all parts of the world, 
but a vast quantity of the waters, in stone bottles, is 
annually sent to remote countries." 

After a pleasant visit to our friends, we returned to 
Frankfort, hired a large sleeping-room and a small 
parlor, both neatly furnished, for twenty-two gulden 
(eight dollars and eighty cents) per month, including 



54 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 

service. The lady of whom we hired prepared our 
dinner, which was sent to our room; it consisted of 
soup, meat, salad, vegetables, and dessert, for which we 
paid one gulden (forty cents) for both. 

Our house was in the new part of the city, outside 
the promenades; we had a j^retty garden, and one of 
three summer-houses to ourselves. Indeed, all the 
houses outside the city have gardens, as their familiar 
name of " Gartenhauser " signifies. These houses are 
built of stone, or brick, thickly cemented over, to look 
like stone ; they are very neat and pretty, and those of 
the wealthier classes are very handsome. Much pains 
is taken with the gardens, and the inhabitants vie with 
each other in the cultivation of flowers, particularly 
roses, of which you see plenty of all kinds, from early 
spring until late in autumn. Among the choice plants 
we saw red and white hardback and barberry bushes. 
By the by, a young lady warned me not to touch the 
barberries, saying they were very poisonous. I could 
but think of the old adage, " What is one man's meat 
is another's poison." 

Once more settled in Frankfort, we made a business 
of seeing all that was worth seeing, and I jotted down 
in my journal whatever struck me as interesting or 
peculiar ; for instance, a dressy young lady, with her hair 
arranged in the most tasteful manner, carrying a chop- 
ping-tray of meat, covered with a white napkin, under 



AN AMERICAN "WOMAN IN EUROPE. 



55 



her arm : on inquiry, I was informed that she was a 
butcher's daughter, and the heiress to fifty thousand 
dollars, yet she daily carried meat to her father's cus- 
tomers. 

Formerly the city of Frankfort allowed only a cer- 
tain number of butchers, bakers, and apothecaries within 
her walls ; she fixed the prices of their articles, and 
naturally having all the business in their own hands, 
and no competition, they all became rich on moderate 
profits. Within a few years that law has been 
abolished ; and now the honest German, as they used 
to call him, can shave as close as he pleases. 

On the bridge over the Maine is a statue of Charle- 
magne, and an iron cock, said to be five hundred years 
old ; the statue was erected in memory of Charle- 
magne's coronation in the ninth century. Charlemagne 
founded the city, and many kings have been crowned 
there. 

During the time of fairs large piles of crockery, 
earthen and wooden ware, remain uncovered in the 
streets ; the city is responsible for them. We should 
like to see such piles of ware exposed without guard 
in the cities of Boston and New York. 

In the Oriental Cabinet is a fine collection of articles 
of necessity and luxury, of industry and art. Ad- 
mission eighteen kreutzers, or twelve cents. It is cus- 
tomary to give trinkgeld on visiting Goethe's house, 
&c. Some of the stores on the Zeil, the principal 



56 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

Street of the city, are beautiful ; we never passed the 
Bohemian-glass ware, antiquarian, and jewellers' stores, 
without stopping to look at the choice collections 
offered for sale. The picture gallery, open on cer- 
tain days of the week, is free to all ; so also is the 
famous Ariadne (by Dannecker, so placed that the 
light, striking through red drapery, gives it a perfect 
flesh-color), which can be seen at any other than the 
time specified by giving a trifle to the person who 
tends the door. 

We took much interest in the Museum of Natural 
History, one of the most important of the kind in Ger- 
many. Open free on Wednesday, P. M., and Friday, 
A. M. The City Library is open to the public, daily, 
from eleven to twelve, except Sundays: there we saw a 
valuable collection of scientific and antiquarian books"; 
also an original portrait of Martin Luther, and another 
of his wife : her face is mild and sweet, although the 
general appearance is rather masculine. Luther's ugly 
old leather slippers are carefully preserved in a glass- 
case, as well as two letters in his handwriting. We 
attended a wedding in the new Jewish synagogue — a 
neat, handsome building, and well worth one visit at 
least. 

The Kaisersaal is free on certain days of the week ; 
on other days one pays twenty-four kreutzers. No 
stranger should miss seeing it. There are the fifty-two 
emperors of Germany on the four walls of the hall : 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 57 

the satin, ermine, silk, and velvet of their dresses are 
exquisitely painted. Once, while we were there, a 
teacher came in with a class of f)upils, to whom he 
explained the pictures, giving quite a good historical 
lecture : said teacher had all the pedantry of a German 
professor, and looked around upon the spectators every 
few minutes, as we have seen public readers and 
speakers, who wish, or rather give the signal for, 
applause. The fifty-two emperors commenced with 
Charlemagne, in the ninth century, and ended with 
Francis II., the last German emperor crowned in 
Frankfort. 

The houses where Boerne and Rothschild were 
born are in the Judengasse. We went into the 
baron's beautiful garden, near the Bockenheimer Thor, 
or gate. By the by, there are eight of these gates 
or entrances to the old city. 

We often visited the Zoological Garden as a place 
of instruction as well as entertainment. The collec- 
tion of animals, of all kinds, is remarkably good, and 
they are kept as clean and neat as the most fastidious 
can desire. Price of admission, thirty-six kreutzers, or 
twenty-four cents : season tickets are very cheap, and 
j)ersons having families do well to avail themselves of 
so good an opportunity to instruct their children. 
Concerts are often given in the garden, and many per- 
sons remain there half a day at a time, listening to the 



58 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

music and taking refresliments, after having seen the 
animals. The Dome, or St. Bartholomew's church, 
is the oldest in Frankfort; it is built in Gothic 
style, in the form of a cross, and is attractive in an 
historical point of view. The Luther house, from 
which he addressed the people, near the Dome, is 
pointed out to the stranger. Theatre-going is one of 
the principal amusements of the Frankforters; and it is 
no wonder, for there they have the best of music, see 
excellent performances, and splendid scenery and cos- 
tumes, for a very trifle ; parquet, forty-eight kreut- 
zers, thirty-six cents ; reserved seats, one florin thirty 
kreutzers, or sixty cents; gallery, twenty-four kreut- 
zers, or eighteen cents. 

We enjoyed the theatre very much, although we 
must say that we were surprised at the meanness of the 
building (there is but one theatre in Frankfort), com- 
pared w4th the wealth of the inhabitants. A great 
part of the theatre is let to yearly subscribers. Per- 
formance commences at half past six. Many persons 
go from the theatre to a party : it is no uncommon 
thing for ladies to go to and from the theatre without 
attendants. 

We had always heard that the American, in general, 
were superior in education to the German women ; but 
we did not find it so, at least among those- with whom 
we came in contact. We found them, for the most part, 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 59 

well educated and intelligent ; many were versed in 
politics, familiar with the history of their own country, 
giving you the genealogy of their dukes, emperors, 
&c., as easily as of their own family. We observed 
that they conversed freely, often taking the lead. At 
the garden, parties, and public places, the gentlemen 
sat leaning on an elbow, listening attentively to their 
lady companions, who seemingly had no difficulty in 
entertaining them. 

We met with a dress-maker, a pretty girl of eighteen, 
who had studied English and French, knew something 
of music and drawing, and was what we should call a 
very smart girl ; she worked from early morning until 
midnight during the busy season, and her mother said, 
"It does not hurt her ; she is used to it : " at the same 
time, her brother, one year younger, was allowed to go 
out every evening, his mother saying, " Poor boy ! he 
has been shut up in the store all day ; he needs recrea- 
tion." The male sex in Germany spend very few even- 
ings at home with their families. 

The promenades extend from the west end of the 
city by the Untermain Thor, in a large half-circle, to the 
eastern, the Obermain Thor, and have cool, shady walks, 
bright, sunny flower-beds, little hills, pretty lakes, sur- 
rounded by bushes of various hues, from the darkest 
brown to the lightest yellow-green ; gold and silver 
fish glitter in the water, and swans and ducks on its 



60 AN AMEKICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

surface afford amusement to the little ones, who de- 
light in calling them to the shore. The linden, acacia, 
chestnut, oak, &c., vie with the lilac, rose, and flower- 
ing shrubs for the prize of beauty; and all these trees 
and bushes are the home of the nightingale, blackbird, 
thrush, finch, and wren, whose sweet songs attract the 
pedestrian to the comfortable seats under the trees, 
where they can listen at their ease. How many times 
we sat enchanted by the nightingale, which frequently 
sang until ten or eleven, A. M. ! Dear, gentle bird ! 
They called it stupid because it was so familiar, sitting 
almost within reach of one's hand. 

In fine weather, and particularly on Sunday after- 
noons, the promenades are the resort of the wealthy 
and richly-dressed Frankforters. Conspicuous in the 
crowd were the Fulder and ISTiddaer nurses, carrying 
the infants of the rich. Their costume is very pretty 
— a short, black dress, with very full skirt, and short, 
white sleeves, over which are black shoulder-straps; 
stockings long and very white, with colored garters 
fringed at the ends ; shoes low and black. Their hair 
is all combed to the top of the head, and put under a 
round piece of red or black embroidered cloth, with 
immense long streamers hanging down behind. As we 
before observed, a walk on the promenade, and you 
have a baby show gratis. 

One^ A. M. We were unable to eat our breakfast 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 61 

for a terrible odor from the street. We shut our win- 
dows until it had somewhat subsided. When we went 
into the street, we saw large, iron, cannon-shaped ves- 
sels, made air-tight, to contain certain fertilizers, which 
we at home more judiciously remove in the night season. 

September llth. Some fifty Prussian soldiers re- 
quested to be sent to their homes in the cars, which 
was refused them. A number became excited, and 
attacked their officers; the rest were ordered to fire, 
which they would not do, and a general aiFray took 
place, in which some were wounded. They, poor 
fellow^s ! were mostly married men, having families. 
They were taken from their homes, and sent away in 
the cars to be killed, as they said. They received but 
about five cents per day, and were told to pay their 
own expenses home, or get there as they could. There 
is much talk of Prussia's progressing, and of the good 
she is doing. Let her do justice to her own soldiers, 
and pay them as she ought, and then we will listen to 
her progressiveness. When we saw a man, with a gun 
on his shoulder, trotting the live-long day in front of a 
house where an officer or a government bug resided, 
we marvelled at his patience and power of endurance. 

The Blind Institution, in Frankfort, in comparison 
to that at South Boston, was a very small affiiiir. In 
the Infants' Hospital everything was very, nicely 
arranged. Many little ones were sitting at low tables, 



62 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

amusing themselves with blocks, slates and pencils, 
and the like. The little creatures seemed happy, and 
glad to show what they could do. The nurses appeared 
to be very fond of the children, and to pride themselves 
upon their healthy appearance. What a sacrifice on 
the part of those five sisters, to devote their entire life 
to the hospital ! They were dressed alike — dark 
calico gowns, black aprons, white caps and collars. 

Some of the city laws are (or were) very peculiar. 
Perhaps they have been changed under Prussia, The 
inhabitants of the towns adjoining the city — Born- 
heim, for instance — were not allowed to bring bread 
and meat into the city without paying octroi, or taxes. 
An inspector was stationed on the boundary of the 
town. It was his duty to examine and tax whatever 
was brought in. Frequently the person who wished to 
bring bread into the city cut his loaf, and thus escaped 
the tax. If an inhabitant of Bornheim desired to 
remove to the city, he had to obtain a license, and was 
not considered a citizen; whilst an inhabitant of 
Frankfort could remove to Bornheim without license, 
and enjoy all the rights and privileges of citizenship. 

We went to see the drawing of the Frankfort lot- 
tery. The large room, in which it took place, was 
filled with men, boys, and soldiers. I was the only 
representative of my sex, and rather small at that. 
There were desks along the wall on two sides of the 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 63 

room, at which men sat writing the numbei-s as they 
were called. On an elevated platform were large glass 
wheels, containing folded bits of paper. These wheels 
were moved back and forth by four boys, two of whom 
took out the papers, without looking at them, one by 
one, and handed them to a man, who unfolded and 
called out nothing, or a prize, as the case might be. 
The drawing was just and fair. 

Ihth, We saw the mausoleum of the wife of the 
Elector of Hesse, William II., father of the pres- 
ent elector. The mausoleum is of red sandstone, 
large and handsome. The story they told us was this : 
Elector William fell in love with the daughter of a 
goldsmith, in Cassel, and married her. Such a marriage 
is called " a left-hand marriage," and children of such 
wedlock are not princes. She was a good woman, and 
her husband loved her, and secured rich estates to-each 
of her numerous offsj^ring. After her death she was 
embalmed, and her heart placed in a gold vase. All 
the parterre of her palace was draped in black cloth, 
and the other stories with black silk velvet and deep 
silver fringe. The body, dressed in white satin, lay in 
state on black satin, ornamented with silver, and sur- 
rounded by burning wax candles and white flowers. 
Thus was buried the Countess Reichenbach, in 1839. 

The present Elector of Hesse has followed his 
father's example in making a left-hand marriage. He 



64 AN AMEIIICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

bought his wife of an officer, who was glad to get the 
money for her, and she was glad to be a countess. 
However, this marriage did not prove to be a happy 
one, the Ilerr husband being rather too tyrannical to 
suit her countess-ship. 

Chimney-sweeping is quite an important profession. 
The sweepers wear tight-fitting pants, shoes, and no 
stockings, a snug jacket, and sugar-loaf hat. The law 
requires that chimneys be swept monthly. In the old 
houses the sweeper ascends from the lower story. In 
the new houses, he stands on the chimney top, and 
runs a ball and scraper up and down the chimney. 
For this operation, which he is bound to perform faiths 
fully once a month, he receives the enormous price of 
two florins, or eighty cents, annually. 

English travellers are fond of purchasing antiquities 
and articles of historical value. A poor man in Frank- 
fort bettered his condition by taking advantage of the 
Englishman's love for curiosities, as he called it. He 
took an old dressing-gown to an antiquarian store, and, 
in some way, proved it to be the gown which Goethe 
wore in his study. The Englishman, delighted to become 
the possessor of so valuable an article, paid a great price 
for it, and thus set the poor man on his legs again. 

By way of making some prepai'ation for winter, we 
bought an alcohol apparatus for cooking, and a pretty 
japanned waiter for two guldens, or eighty cents; a 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUKOPE. 65 

nice brown tea-pot, cream-pitclier, plates,, and three 
cups and saucers, the whole for fifty cents. Not a 
very expensive outfit, I take it. O, there's nothing 
like travelling to teach one to make himself comforta- 
ble with very few traps ! 

We were kejDt awake nearly the whole night of the 
5th of October by the performances going on in the 
kitchen, viz., the cooking of prunes for winter use. 
Two or three bushels of fresh prunes had been stoned, 
and a part of them put over a slow fire, just after din- 
ner. They required little attention until they were 
heated through, and then they had to be stirred almost 
continually. Three persons sat up all night, and took 
turns at stirring. When thus cooked, with a little 
sugar it tastes much like Shaker apple-sauce, and, 
among the poorer people, is eaten with bread to save 
butter. The same thing is done with apples and pears 
mixed, but is not as pleasant to the taste. 

October ^th. Frankfort, of historic glory, ceased to 
be a free city. Prussia had possession, and spread 
forth her banners, the insignia of her power. The 
Frankforters were enraged. Some Prussian ofiicers 
and their ladies called at the houses of the haute 
volee, but the ladies were " not at home " to receive 
them. Proclamations were posted in every direction, 
and crowds of people stood at the corners of streets, 
reading, and grinding their teeth. 
5 



66 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

Wiesbaden, the capital of Nassau, renowned even 
in the time of the ancient Romans for its mineral 
springs, is but on-e and a half hours from Frankfort 
by rail. 

Among the most important of the springs are the 
Kochbrunnen (boiling s^^ring), and the spring in the 
garden of the Adler (Eagle) House. 

The Kursaal contains elegant dancing, concert, 
refreshment, and gambling rooms. 

Our comjjanion told us that, two years previous to 
the time we were there, a gentleman, having gambled 
away his fortune, drew a pistol from his pocket, and 
shot himself through the head at the table. His 
blood sprinkled some of the lady gamblers, who fainted 
and were removed. The body was carried off, the 
floor and tables cleaned up, and in less than an hour 
the gamblers were re-seated, and going on with the 
play as if nothing had happened. 

We drove through the city, stopped at the Koch- 
brunnen, where the water was bubbling and steaming 
like a boiling pot. Tasted the water. It was more 
like weak chicken-broth than anything we could im- 
agine. Our coachman quaffed his glass with smacking 
lips, saying, "Recht gesund " (very healthy). 

We visited the Greek church, where are exquisite 
paintings and finely-carved work. The chapel stands 
on a hill overlooking the city ; its cupolas, which are 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 67 

gilded with pure gold, can be seen at considerable dis- 
tance. Looking through its red glass-door, you have 
a magnificent panoranaa of the city in that soft, red 
light which produces such a pleasing effect. The re- 
mains of the Duchess of Nassau, daughter of Arch- 
duke Michel, uncle of the present Emperor of Kussia, 
lie buried there, and a marble statue of the duchess, 
lying in quiet repose, marks the spot : the face is very 
handsome, and is said to be a perfect resemblance. 
She was a good woman, and much beloved. 

We spent one day very pleasantly in Wiesbaden, 
but should soon tire of seeing so many unfortunate 
lame people, wheeled about in little carriages, amidst 
the foolishly-dressed puppets, both male and female, 
the former with their mustache twisted so that it 
looked like horns, the latter painted, and dragging a 
trail, though made of fine silk, and often of bright 
colors, very inferior to a peacock's tail. 

Speaking of prices, a writer says, " A man may travel 
very far indeed before he will find provisions and civil- 
ity cheaper than in the duchy of Nassau." This is 
true, to a considerable extent, at present, although 
prices vary with the season and number of strangers in 
the city, as elsewhere. 

At another time we visited Homburg — a pretty city. 
Its elegant Kursaal, with ball, concert and gambling 
rooms, as in the other principal watering-places, and 



68 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

its fine promenades, pleasant environs, and comfortable 
hotels, have given it a world-wide renown. Besides 
the places of which we have spoken, we visited Bergen, 
and nearly all the towns in the immediate vicinity of 
Frankfort. 

October 2A.th. We had been feasting on delicious 
grapes, at six kreutzers, or four cents, per pound, for 
some weeks ; and now, as the time of vintage drew 
near, we determined to seek a home where we could 
see the process of wine-making. Previous to our 
departure, we bought several little things, by way of 
replenishing our wardrobe ; for example, pretty em- 
broidered linen collars, at eight and twelve kreutzers 
each, also fine linen handkerchiefs at eight gulden, three 
dollars and twenty cents, per dozen ; an extra nice trav- 
elling rug, or robe, for fifteen florins, or six dollars, &c. 

An acquaintance introduced us to a family in Kemp- 
ton, on the Rhine, a short distance from Bingen. We 
were glad to live in a private German family in Ger- 
man style, and to have an opportunity to see and mix 
with the people. 

Our dinner, consisting of soup, meat, vegetables, and 
salad of some kind, was served at twelve. We must 
not forget to say that there was no lack of wine. At 
three P. M. we had cofiee and cake, and at seven a 
supper, quite as ample as the twelve o'clock dinner. 
Besides the grapes which were served at dessert, we 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 69 

had a basket full put in our sitting-room every morn- 
ing, which we considered excellent jDolicy on the part 
of the landlady, inasmuch as grapes were cheaper than 
meat. Do not be surprised that we are not expatiat- 
ing upon the beauties of the Rhine ; that is to come : 
our Business here is to talk about the people, and how 
they make wine. 

Kempton contains one hundred and ten houses, 
and about five hundred inhabitants, of whom we should 
judge two thirds were children. The inhabitants are 
Catholic, and mostly poor, working people : many of 
them, owning no land, cut grass by the wayside, to 
feed their cows. Those whose business it is to trim 
the grape vines, dry the leaves and roots for winter : 
softened in water, the cattle eat them readily. 

The maid-servant, in the house where we were, had 
the entire charge of cleaning, scrubbing, shoe-brushing, 
and general housework, with the care of two cows, 
whose fodder she cut and brought home ; and in con- 
sideration of receiving extra high wages, — viz., fifty 
guldens, or twenty dollars, per year, — and a pair of 
new shoes at Christmas, she had to work in the vine- 
yard whenever it was necessary, as in busy seasons, 
wine-making, &c. We heard the people speak of going 
to bed at nine o'clock, to give her a chance to scour 
the floors. Very few persons in the common walks of 
life are troubled with carpets ; the more cleanly people 



70 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

wash their floors almost daily, on account of the fleas, 
which are an intolerable nuisance ; and here let us say 
that almost every family has one or more dogs, which, 
however, are insufiicient to accommodate the hoppers 
of the respective families to which they belong. 

November \st. We went into the vineyard, on the 
side of a hill, with the intention of helping cut the • 
graj^es; but the air was damp and cool, and we soon 
tired of it : women and girls, with kerchiefs tied over 
their heads, and bare hands, laughed at us for being so 
delicate, as they said. The people are hired not to 
eat the grapes while gathering them. They work in 
rows, throwing the bunches into tubs and buckets ; 
these are emptied into what they call the hutte — a long, 
wooden vessel, which is carried on the back. While 
the men who carry the butte are waiting for a fresh 
supply, they jam the grapes with a wooden instru- 
ment made for the purpose; the bruised grapes and 
juice are then poured into a cask, and carried to the 
mill, where they are to he pressed. The seeds and 
skins, which are taken from the press, are jammed up 
in water, and pressed over again, to make what they 
call table wine ; that is, the light, common wine used at 
dinner. People are very fond of the fresh juice, which 
is drank as we drink sweet cider : however, one can 
drink but very little at a time; it is too sweet and too 
fulsome. The juice undergoes a process of fermenta- 
tion and clarifying to prepare it for use. 



AlSr AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 71 

Some of the wine speculators have a wonderful way 
of making much wine from a comparatively small quan- 
tity of juice, by the addition of j^otato-sugar and 
water. Different kinds of wine are made from different 
kinds of grapes : the small Burgundy grapes are said 
to be the best for champagne. Some kinds of grapes 
are not gathered until the snow is on the ground. Our 
landlady told us that there was no end to labor in the 
vineyards. After the wine is made, they dig around 
and manure the vines ; then they cover each stock 
carefully with straw, and bend it over, and all through 
the winter visit and watch over them. The men and 
women who climb the steep hill-sides for this work 
are forced to creep down in a bent posture, with their 
loads on their backs, when the ground is covered with 
snow and ice. No wonder that poor women, to whom 
I was presented as an American, exclaimed, " O, you 
women have it good in America ; I wish I was there." 

Many people live almost entirely on grapes for six 
or eight weeks — to renew their blood, as they say. We 
were told of a Russian gentleman, living in Bingen for 
the purpose of taking the grape-cure, who used to send 
daily for fourteen pounds of grapes, all which he ate 
himself alone. It seemed to us rather a tough medi- 
cine, for one's teeth begin to feel badly after eating two 
or three pounds. During the cure patients are not 
allowed to eat meat. 



72 AX AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

Wlien the weather was pleasant, the vintagers made 
a jolly tune of it ; we heard them singing merrily in 
the vineyards and on their way home; some of those 
who came from a distance lighted a fire by the road- 
side to make their coffee. It seemed to us not quite 
fair that they should work among the grapes and not 
have a taste of them : mothers, at least, should have 
some given them to carry home to the children who 
have been left alone all day, with no other food than 
their rye bread, and no one to look after and care for 
them. 

November Sd. The window of our room was open, 
and birds, on a tree near, were chirping, as on a spring 
day. The Rhinegau and the Taunus lay opposite, in 
the light and shade of a November sky. The town of 
Rudesheim, with its church and old castle, sat quietly 
in the sunlight, like a paradise of peace. 

I gazed upon the river, the towns opposite, the sky, 
the hills, trees, birds, and bright flowers in the garden 
below, and could only give vent to my feelings by 
ejaculating, « Beautiful ! beautiful ! " It was All Saints^ 
Day. Towards noon we went to the Catholic burial- 
ground, where were several children : they had orna- 
mented the graves of their loved ones with white sand ; 
one had made a cross, another a scalloped border, more 
or less elaborate. Wooden crosses marked the graves, 
and there was a wreath of paper flowers, of beads, or 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN ETJEOPE. 73 

of moss, on every cross. The children greeted us as 
usual, and were pleased to see us in their midst. 

Wovember ^th. We went to Ingelheim, where we 
were invited to dine with the widow of the most 
liberal man of his time. 

Ingelheim is divided into Upper and Lower. Lower 
Ingelheim is noted as being the place where Charle- 
magne built a palace, ornamented with one hundred 
pillars of granite and marble. German kings often 
resided and gave great entertainments in this palace. 
Its ruins are still to be seen on the south side of the 
town. The thick, firm walls and round towers of the 
old fortifications are yet standing. 

We were cordially received, and conducted into a 
large, old-fashioned parlor, in which were a carpet cov- 
ering the entire floor (a rare sight in those parts), 
handsome pictures, statuary, pots of flowers, &c. The 
dinner was quite luxurious for a private family. Among 
other things were roast goose, stufled with chestnuts 
and onions, and stewed chestnuts for vegetable ; grapes, 
purple, red, white, light-green, yellow, round, oval — 
large and small grapes, arranged in the most tempt- 
ing manner; pears and peaches — the latter quite in- 
diflerent ; and abundance of wine of various kinds. 
Cofiee was handed soon after we left the dinner-table. 
An hour's walk in the garden, and supper was an- 
nounced. The company partook of it as heartily as 



74 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

if they had had no dinner. The German manner of 
dressing geese with chestnuts and onions, or apples 
and raisins, is excellent. 

Speaking of the culture of the grape, the lady said 
that the grape stock, under favorable circumstances and 
in good soil, bore fruit a hundred years and more, in 
which case its main roots are often larger than the stock 
itself. She said that she had about one hundred varie- 
ties of grapes on her premises, and tried to keep each 
variety by itself. The red wine is made first, and 
those who sort their grapes carefully obtain a choice 
quality of wine. Said lady was more energetic and 
j^ractical than most . of the German ladies of our 
acquaintance. 

Novemher bth. Going through the vineyards, up 
the hill, to the Rochus Chapel, we noticed coal ashes 
and cinders strewn among the vines, and were told 
that coal ashes were much used as a fertilizer. We 
met women tugging up those rugged steeps with 
baskets full of one thing and another upon their 
heads; and one could not but observe how old and 
homely the middle-aged ones looked, compared with 
the elderly ladies whom we had seen in the cities. 
Poor women, thinly clad, with nothing but a kerchief 
tied over their heads, working day after day in the 
cold and rain, as well as in the hot sun, — how can 
they look otherwise than wrinkled and weather-beaten ? 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 75 

The labor of going up the hills in the morning, down 
at noon to make their coffee and boil potatoes for din- 
ner, and then again up and down, each time with a 
load, astonished me; for I could not go once, with 
nothing but the weight of my poor body to carry. 
More than all, and perhaps worse than all, they are 
forced to leave their small children alone to take care 
of themselves as best they can. It is said that these 
women are generally cheerful, industrious, and con- 
tented. They console themselves with the thought 
that God puts no more upon them than they are able 
to bear. 

We stopped to speak to a group of children near 
the foot of the hill. The eldest, a boy of seven, had 
the care of the other two. He was cutting grass with 
an old sickle, and lustily scolding the youngest child, 
who was as lustily crying. It is astonishing to see 
how mature children of these poor people are, and 
how much work they can do. 

We noticed that the fields were everywhere planted, 
and covered with . a fresh green — millet, rye, turnips, 
cabbages packed close together in long lines, and 
lettuce set out for spring. 

They say that the inhabitants of Bingen, and those 
on the side of the hills facing the Rhine, as far as 
Kempton, are obliged to use Rhine water, not being 
able to find springs, while those who live on the other 
side of the hill have abundance of spring water. 



76 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

Our stay at Kempton was very pleasant. The only 
drawback was that, on leaving, we had to "pay dear 
for the whistle;" but it was our own fault.- We ought 
to have asked prices in the first place ; in other words, 
made a bargain. People imagine that all who come 
from America are rich ; and, if by chance you speak 
of having a house to yourself, a carpeted floor, <fcc., 
they immediately set you down as able to pay what- 
ever they fancy to charge. We were sorry to be thus 
gouged by the master of the establishment, because we 
had become quite attached to his family, and would 
otherwise have returned to them the next spring. 

November ^\st. Cassel is a small but handsome 
city, having large, open squares, gardens, and parks. 
There is a choice collection of pictures in the gallery. 
The Museum, with its collection of clocks, is interesting. 

We went to the theatre, and were delighted with 
the performance. The elector's box, opposite the 
stage, looked pretty, with its white curtains, marble 
statues, chandelier of wax candles, and festoons of red 
velvet. Neither the theatre nor the palace was 
lighted by gas. 

N'ovember 2dd. We had a tedious ride of seven 
hours from Cassel to Leipzig. We took tickets for 
tlie express train, and, to our great surprise, stopped at 
every village. The conductor recommended us to the 
Palmenbaun Hotel, in Leipzig, and we cheerfully in- 



AN AMEKICAN WOMAN IN EUROPB. 77 

dorse his recommendation. We found the food plen- 
tiful and of excellent quality ; our sleeping-rooms all 
that we could wish ; waiters careful, polite, and atten- 
tive to all our wants ; prices fair. 

On our way to Leipzig, we passed Weimar, where 
Goethe lived from 1776 to his death, 1832; Herder 
from 1776 to 1803; Wieland from 1772 to 1813; 
Schiller from 1801 to 1805, the year of his death. 

Leipzig is at the junction of the Elster, Pleisse, and 
Parthe Rivers, and is noted for its three yearly fairs, 
which are attended by Poles, Jews, Greeks, Armenians, 
Turks, and those engaged in various trades from other 
nations. It is the central point of the German book 
trade; has one hundred and ninety-two bookstores, 
some fifty printing-offices, with one hundred and nine 
hand and one hundred and thirty-nine machine presses. 
Leipzig has increased more within a few years than 
any other German city. 

The Museum is free to visitors four days in the week. 
At other times one pays five neugroschen. 

November 14:th. Again we were told that we were 
in an express train ; but we found it anything but a 
Yankee express ; indeed, it seemed to us intolerably 
slow. Instead of riding three hours, as we expected, 
we rode five. Passed barren, steiile-looking country, 
and many old wind-mills, stretching out their long 
arms, ready to fight any Don Quixote who came along. 



78 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

At the depot in Berlin, the law obliges carriages to 
occujDy a certain place, and furnishes officers to wait 
upon passengers — an excellent and time-saving sys- 
tem. The officer calls the number of a carriage, and 
it takes you whither you will without grumbling or 
dickering. We landed at Hotel Brandenburg. 

In Berlin, for the first time in Germany, we felt a 
piercing, cool wind, like our New England east 
wind. We had a porcelain stove in our chamber. 
I should rather call it a politic stove on the part 
of the proprietor of the establishment, for it was out 
of repair. The wood fire burned out, and in a short 
time the room cooled off, so that we were obliged to 
ring for them to kindle another fire. Instead of the 0)ie 
fire which is supposed to be all-sufficient in large por- 
celain stoves, we had three or four per day, and each 
one was charged on the bill. 

Our beds were dressed with feather-bed above, instead 
of blankets and quilts. However, that was more bear- 
able in November than in July. 

Our food at the Brandenburg, though good, was 
inferior to that of the Palmenbaun, in Leipzig, and 
cost much moi"e. 

Berlin, the capital of Prussia, on the Spree, which 
flows through the city, is built on a barren, sandy 
plain. It was but an insignificant city in the time of 
King Frederick I. ; but at present it is considered 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 79 

one of the handsomest cities in Europe. Perhaps 
there are more beautiful buildings in the space be- 
tween the Brandenburg Thor and the king's palace 
than can be found in any other city. The Linden and 
the Opera-house places are the most fashionable. We 
called upon our American ambassador, whom we found 
living very stylishly in a house quite palace-like, with 
its marble stairs, &c. I never could understand why 
our government pays these officers so many thousand 
dollars per year, when they have almost nothing to do. 
If they worked to earn it, I should say, O, yes, let 
them have it. 

We went to the Legislative hall ; entrance very 
mean. A gentleman was speaking with much warmth 
and energy ; but the air in the hall was so impure that 
we could not remain to hear all he had to say. Said 
hall is spoken of as something very grand. We did 
not find it so ; on the contrary, not at all in keeping 
with the beautiful exterior of the public buildings 
generally. 

At the Royal Opera we saw the elite of the city, 
in white cashmere and white muslin, with a super- 
abundance of head-gear. The opera, "Joseph in 
Egypt," was finely given. Nieman, said -to be the 
best tenor in the world, sang Joseph. It com- 
menced at half past six and ended at half past nine. 

It is almost worth one's while to go to Berlin for 



80 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

the sake of the Museum. It is on a grand scale, and 
one requires time to enjoy it. We remained three 
and a half hours on our first visit, and felt as if we 
had seen but a small proportion of what was to be 
seen. Busts, images, vases, &c., arranged in the best 
manner possible; gallery upon gallery of paintings; 
the famous Gobelin tapestry, woven for Henry VIII. 
of England, from drawings by Raphael; antiquities, 
medallions, &c., without number; splendid Kaul- 
bach frescoes, among the most beautiful, or at any 
rate the most captivating, of anything in the Museum. 

One day, as we were passing the king's palace, we 
saw an old man, evidently a soldier, trying to get 
access to the king. A crowd of people gathered about 
him. We could not hear what the sentinels said, but 
he was sent away. " Poor man ! " said a bystander ; 
"l^erhaps he has important business with the king. 
What a shame that he was not admitted! If the king 
only knew how anxious he was ! " 

December Wi. Went to Plauen, noted for its 
manufacture of muslins. We found the Hotel Diel 
neat and comfortable; prices, reasonable. 

December lO^A. From Plauen to Hof is a gradual as- 
cent, and we were soon quite up in the world. Farmers 
were everywhere ploughing, notwithstanding the rain, 
wind, and snow. In some places, where the snow had 
melted, the fields were beautifully green with winter 
grain. 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 81 

Arrived at Nuremberg. The streets and houses 
were ornamented with flags, banners, wreaths, &c., in 
honor of King Ludwig II., who had been making a 
visit there, and left a few hours before our arrival. 
We took lodgings in the Rother Hahn (Red Cock) 
Hotel. The buildings of Nuremberg are very quaint 
and irregular. Many of them have long roofs, pierced 
with tiers of small windows. The Pegnitz, a narrow 
mountain stream, over w^hich are eight bridges, runs 
through the city. Albert Durer's house, his portrait, 
and his grave are pointed out with mingled feelings of 
pride and respect. The "Beautiful Fountain" is. well 
and justly named. Twelve pictures in stone, descrip- 
tive of Christ's agony, are placed by the road-side which 
leads to the cemetery, where Christ and the two 
thieves are represented on crosses. Immense stone 
slabs mark where the inhabitants of former times sleep. 
The Museum con-tains a large collection of valuable 
old manuscripts, musical instruments of ancient times, 
pictures, coins, &c. We were so much pleased with 
Nuremberg that we would gladly have remained 
there a long time. 

December 12th. What charming scenery and what 
variety we saw in our ten hours' ride from Nuremberg 
to Stutgard ! — mountains, hills, valleys, rivers, woods, 
cities, hamlets, — all interesting, and the more so be- 
cause our German companions in the cars never failed 
6 



82 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

to point out a beautiful spot. We have often been 
astonished at the keen perception which the German 
people in general have for natural beauty. 

Stutgard, the capital of Wurtemberg, is delightfully 
situated, and a pleasant and agreeable city, particularly 
for a winter's residence. Those persons who wish to 
live economically and independently do better to hire 
furnished rooms in a private house than to live in a 
hotel. 

December 13^A. --Three hours by rail brought us to 
Carlsruhe, where we took rooms. A large front par- 
lor, well furnished, with an adjoining sleeping-room 
and service, twenty gulden — eight dollars — per 
month. We made arrangements with the keeper of 
a restaurant, who sent us a good dinner for thirty 
kreutzers each. Our landlady was a kind-hearted, 
good old lady, and her maid-of-all-work a most 
obliging and intelligent person ; so that we felt quite 
at our ease as far as they were concerned. The even- 
ing of our arrival we were invited to a supper of goose 
liver. It was very delicate, and was served with 
preiselberries, which, in Germany, take the place of 
cranberries. 

The geese are enclosed, singly, in coops so small that 
they cannot turn round. Two or three times a day 
the goose is taken from its prison and stuffed with 
Indian meal dough. A person holds the bird, o[)ena 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 83 

its bill, forces dough into its throat until it gasps for 
breath, then strokes the throat and crop on the outside, 
waits a minute, and crams in more, and so on until the 
crop is filled ; and this process is continued from seven 
to eight weeks, when the liver weighs from one to two 
pounds. It is pitiable to hear the mournful cry of the 
goose thus treated. Every housekeeper provides her- 
self with one, two, or three geese, according to her 
means, so that you hear them, go where you will. We 
expostulated upon what we called the barbarity of the 
treatment, and were told that it was necessary for the 
family's comfort. "How else should I get my nice 
goose fat, and what would make good the delicious 
liver ? " said a lady addressed ; and added, " besides, 
they soon get used to it." ^ 

I was invited to meet some ladies one evening. The 
conversation turned upon the condition of women. It 
was very spirited, and I learned that the German ladies 
understood and appreciated the rights of women. Our 
hostess gave us i*ye bread and butter, marinated her- 
ring and beer for supper, which we enjoyed quite as 
much as tea, pies, cake, &c. ; and really it was a 
much easier supper to prepare. 

Carlsruhe is a very neat and quiet city. The military 
and students of the Polytechnic School somewhat en- 
liven the streets, which, without them, would be almost 
as quiet as a country village. It is a great privilege to 



84 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUKOPE. 

a stranger living in Carlsruhe to be permitted to enjoy 
the duke's garden, green-houses, museum, picture gal- 
lery, &c., as much as he pleases, free of expense. 

Carlsruhe can boast of a theatre good, in respect to 
the comfort and cleanliness of the building, the excel- 
lence of the performance, the beauty of the scenery and 
decorations, and the quality of the music. The prices 
of admission are too low to support the establishment, 
and the deficit is made up by the grand duke, who is 
a good man, and very popular. We frequently saw 
the duke and duchess at the theatre, and never failed 
to admire the neatness and simi^licity of the latter's 
dress. Had she not taken her seat in the duke's box, 
and had not the people made some demonstration at 
her entrance, one would not have thought that she 
was the Grand Duchess of Baden, and daughter of the 
King of Prussia. 

Apropos of the theatre : it is built of stone, and every 
precaution taken against fire. Some twenty years ago, 
upon the introduction of gas, and ignorant in respect 
to it, the theatre burned down, and some sixty or seventy 
people, mostly servant girls, who were in the upper 
gallery, were either burned or crushed to death in their 
attemjDt to get out of the building. 

December 26th. My first Christmas here. We were 
awakened very early by the ringing of bells, which I 
at first took for a band of music ; then I heard the 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 85 

singing in the Catholic church as I lay in bed. So 
much for the agreeable. The disagreeable was to hear 
the geese, which were killed at an early hour. Turkeys 
are scarce and very expensive in Germany. On festive 
occasions the goose is used instead by the middling 
class. 

We walked in the royal gardens in the afternoon ; 
rfaw several rose-bushes in bud, with now and then an 
^pen flower. It was a singular contrast with the hoar 
frost all around. 

December 2^th. Had a dress altered. It took the 
dress-maker nearly a day to do it. Paid twenty-five 
cents. Bought grapes at eleven cents per pound. 
People thought we were extravagant to give such a 
high price for them. 

Called upon a lady who had lived a long time in 
Cuba. She had brought a trained parrot with her. 
Said bird walked across the floor, singing a Spanish 
song, and pronouncing the words quite distinctly. It 
was amusing to see him move his head like an opera 
singer. 

January \s% 1867. It being a holiday, they sent us 
a few extras for dinner; and it may not be amiss to 
tell Bostonians, who pay so dearly for their food, what 
we had and what it cost us. Soup, boiled beef, veal 
patties, roast chicken, winter salad, a vegetable much 
like asparagus and prepared in the same way, sauces, 



86 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

preiselberries, Washington pie, bread, and half a bottle 
of wine (we had company), abundance for three per- 
sons, for all of which we paid sixty-six cents ; and 
besides, it must be remembered that they sent table- 
cloth, napkins, dishes, &c., all that we required ; and 
they took them away after dinner, so that we had no 
trouble of washing dishes. 

During our stay in Carlsruhe, we several times visited 
the Old People's Home, founded by Carl Frederick 
Leopold and Sophia, and supported by donations from 
benevolent individuals. At first we were surprised to 
find the poor divided into two classes, and eating in 
different rooms ; the first not allowed to work for the 
house, having their coffee carried to their rooms, wine 
every day at dinner, extras as side-dishes ; while the 
second were obliged to work, and work hard, too, 
breakfasted together in the common hall, had wine 
only four times per week, and no side-dishes at dinner. 
On inquiring into the cause of this distinction, we 
were told that the first class consisted of persons 
of genteel families (we saw by the names on the 
doors that many of them were titled), who gave 
their property to the institution to secure to them- 
selves a peaceful and comfortable home, with more 
independence than they could expect in the families of 
their relatives and friends. Each had a well-furnished 
room to her or himself. Some had books and pictures ; 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 87 

others had flowers and birds, and all appeared fully 
satisfied. Indeed, some boasted of the luxuries they 
had. 

The second class were supported by charity. The 
w^omen did the work of the establishment, while the 
men cared for the farm and kitchen garden. They 
slept in the upper rooms of the house, and there was 
neither name nor title on their doors. They saluted 
us cheerfully as we passed them, were comfortably clad, 
and looked in good condition. 

January 16^A. There was considerable snow on the 
ground, and boys and maid-servants dragged girls and 
small children to and from school, on a sort of chair 
put on runners. The children appeared to enjoy this 
kind of riding, w^hich looked to us anything but pleas- 
ant, inasmuch as their feet and legs were quite exposed 
to the cold air ; and those of the smaller ones, not 
reaching the stand, hung dangling. A shawl or rug, 
around the little ones' legs, and the arrangement would 
have been capital. 

We met with a woman who, though poor at the 
time, refused to accept a present of three hundred 
florins (one hundred and twenty dollars) from the 
grand duke, on her giving birth to triplets. She con- 
sidered the present too small for the occasion. 

January 11th. It was amusing to see what a fuss 
the people made about the little sleighing they had. 



88 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

The owners of sleighs demanded high prices ; and the 
drivers took great pleasure in cracking their whips 
continually. Those who have the means ride while 
they can. "Money makes the mare go,", is their 
motto. 

Day after day basket wagons passed our windows, 
laden with cakes of ice not more than six inches in 
thickness; and this Avas stored for the hospital, the 
castle, apothecaries, confectioneries, and hotels. Very 
few private families use ice on ordinary occasions. To 
drink ice-water is thought to be very unhealthy. 

January 2Wi. The weather was fine. We went to 
market ; bought small packages of pitch pine and pine 
cones for kindlings ; a pot of primura in flower for 
nine kreutzers. There were rows of peasant women and 
men holding baskets of butter and eggs covered with 
white cloths. The butter is unsalted, and sold in lumps 
of one, half, and quarter pounds. Price at this time 
was twenty-six kreutzers (eighteen cents) per pound, 
best lump butter. People buy only sufficient for the 
day. Ladies carry their purchases in small baskets on 
their arm, or are accompanied by their maids with 
market baskets. The market women were sitting, as 
usual, on the cold, damp pavements, or on low crickets, 
with their vegetables, apples, pears, geese, kindlings, 
&c. Now and then one had a furnace of coals at her 
side, on which she warmed her coffee. All have chil- 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 89 

blains on hands and feet, more or less. The butchers 
were in stalls on wheels, which answered the double 
purpose of wagon and stall. One side was let down, 
and served for a counter. 

From the market we went to the castle garden, 
where we saw ranunculuses in blossom, many shrubs 
budding, and the grass very green. Birds were chirp- 
ing merrily, and it really seemed spring-like. 

In Carlsruhe, every person is obliged to sweep the 
street daily in front of his house. This labor devolves 
upon the maid-servant. The dirt is taken up in boxes, 
to be removed by scavengers. Formerly there were 
no carts provided to remove the street sweepings and 
offal, and it was all thrown into the vaults. At the 
present time, a company pay for the privilege of taking 
it away. They also buy coal and wood ashes. Carls- 
ruhe is very clean, and there is much less of the dis- 
agreeable smell (caused by want of proper drdnage 
and water fixtures in houses) than there is in many 
other places. 

February 10th. Observing soldier after soldier pre- 
sent arms, as a carriage drove by, we inquired who 
was within, and was told that it was the baby prin- 
cess! 

February 2bth. The Fools' procession passed our 
house, on their way to Ettlingen, where they were to 
have a jollification. All Carlsruhe seemed to be in the 



90 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

streets to see them. It was a sort of carnival. Peo- 
ple in masks rode in open carriages, having colored 
blankets or fancy garments about their persons. Over 
one carriage they bore a huge umbrella, made of red, 
blue, and yellow cloth; and what with torches, ribbons, 
paper flowers, feathers, long tails, immense noses, and 
the buffoonery of their actions, they merited their 
adopted title. 

The duke furnishes carriages and servants to take 
actors to and from the theatre for rehearsals and plays. 
In this way time is saved, actors are punctual, and run 
less risk of taking cold, than if obliged to go on foot. 

March ?>d. Saw a procession very different from 
the one of which we have spoken, yet attracting quite 
, as much attention : 1st. Musicians in full dress, white 
plumes, &c., on horseback, playing a dead march, fol- 
lowed by a troop of cavalry with white feathers ; then 
a band of musicians on foot, with dark-green feathers, 
followed by great numbers of soldiers ; then two lines 
of drummers preceding four cannons, with horses 
draped in black. 

2d. A Catholic priest between two civilians in black, 
the three bareheaded ; then a hearse drawn by four 
horses draped with black, citizens in black, two by 
two; ofiicers in various uniforms with plumes red, 
white, green, black ; these marched three by three, and 
were followed by a long train of gentlemen with black 
bats and black feathers. 



AN AMEBICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 91 

3d. The duke's state carriage, with liveried servants, 
a splendid affair; a long line of carriages ended this 
procession. What a show and pageantry of death for 
a man whom fortune had made a .staff officer ! We 
forgot to mention that a man dressed in red, with long, 
black streamers, preceded the royal equipage. He 
looked more comical than serious. We could not 
ascertain what he was intended to represent. 

April 1st. The cost of living in Heidelberg was but 
a trifle more than that in Carlsruhe. Kind friends had 
chosen pleasant rooms for me, and I was soon quite 
at home among new acquaintances, who spared no 
pains for my comfort. From my windows I had a fine 
view of the castle.- How many times I wished that I 
could paint it in all the different lights in which I saw 
it ! The climate of Heidelberg is changeable. Situated 
as it is in a narrow valley, between the Neckar and the 
mountains, its winds are cold, fogs gather, and rains 
collect oftener than is agreeable ; but then, when it is 
pleasant, it is charming, and the sun puts on his pret- 
tiest light to compensate for his absence. Our Ameri- 
can friends, who had resided in the city through the 
winter, declared that the place was neuralgic and 
rheumatic. I doubt whether the students are troubled 
by the climate. The first week we w^ere in Heidel- 
berg it rained every day, more or less, and we saw the 
sun but twice. The second week it rained four days 



92 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

out of seven. They told us that in summer it is dis- 
agreeably hot. 

April 12th. Went with friends to spend the forenoon 
at the castle. The view up and down the Neckar is 
magnificent : the mountains so clearly marked out upon 
the blue sky beyond ; the fine plains, clothed in every 
shade of green, with now and then a bright yellow 
patch, or one of a rich dark-brown, where the soil had 
just been upturned ; a quaint little village, with its old 
church ; the boats upon the Neckar, and the carriages 
and pedestrians upon the bridge, — each and all were 
objects of intei-est and thought, as we stood there 
wondering what Elizabeth, daughter of James of Eng- 
land, who lived in the castle in 1619, thought of the 
landscape, and whether she was not sorry to leave so 
pleasant a home, even with the prospect of being queen 
of Bohemia. Lovely birds were flying above our 
heads to their nests in the trees, undisturbed by our 
presence, and the beautiful wall-flower clustered in thick 
bunches at the feet of stone heroes standing out from 
the castle wall, or ornamenting a window, to cheat one 
into the belief that some individual had planted it 
there; and the ivy, the beautiful ivy, with its rich, 
heavy foliage, contrasting singularly with the dear, tiny 
coliseum vine, throwing its delicate purple flowers pro- 
fusely over the old gray stones. A gentleman, who 
lives in the castle every summer, showed us flowers 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 93 

wliicb be was painting from nature; they were of 
exquisite finish and beauty. He said be made the 
paints which he used ; never bad any instruction in 
drawing or painting; was seventy-five years old; 
used no spectacles. He gave us the history of the 
castle ; be bad lived there so long that he was quite 
familiar with every part of it; told us of the ghost 
which was said to have wandered at midnight, but 
which he had never seen, and of the subterranean pas- 
sages leading to the shore of the river ; and, finally, of 
the foolish conduct of the students. 

In the evening we were introduced to a young lady 
who was governess in a Russian family. It was her 
business to teach music and singing to four children, 
to be present while they practised their lessons, to 
play and sing for company ; besides which she was 
continually called upon to embroider, and do sundry 
other things, for all which service she received eight 
dollars per month and her board. 

Some of our friends were taking singing and music 
lessons, of an excellent teacher, for one gulden — forty 
cents — per lesson. 

April \^th. The ladies of whom we hired cared for 
our washing; it averaged thirty cents per dozen. The 
country women, who take the clothes out of the city, 
spread them on the grass, and water them as in the 
process of bleaching — wash better and cheaper, besides 



94 AN AMEEICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

injuring them less, than those who use machines and 
chemicals in the cities. 

We often saw a little fellow, of about ten years, going 
to his music teacher, for whom he did house-work and 
errands to pay for his lessons. He played the violin 
quite well, and was learning the piano, and very am- 
bitious to become a Mozart. Besides practising his 
music lessons faithfully, he went regularly to school, 
and helped his mother in the care of the younger 
children. 

April 20^A. Weather warm and summer-like; trees 
in full blossom ; men mowing the grass plats in the 
neighboring gardens. A letter from a friend in Berlin 
informed us that there was not a flower in blossom, 
hardly a spear of grass to be seen in that city. 

A Koman Catholic lady gave me a glowing de- 
scription of the way Holy Thursday was kept in Vi- 
enna when she was young. Among other things, she 
said that the emperor and empress washed the feet of 
thirty of the oldest men and women that could be 
found in the city and vicinity. The emperor took the 
men, and the empress the women ; an attendant carried 
water, of which royalty poured a few drops on the 
proffered feet; another attendant carried napkins, with 
which royalty gave a pat or two to the wet feet. This 
ceremony concluded, the aged guests were presented 
each with a purse containing thirty pieces of silver, 



AN AMEKICAN WOMAN IN ETJEOrE. 95 

the price set upon the head of Jesus. After this they 
had a nice dinner, with plenty of wine, and were dis- 
missed. That was not so bad for the poor old folks ; 
the only pity was, that Holy Thursday came only 
once in a year. 

May lO^A. We drove out to Schwetzingen, a line 
garden of one hundred and eighty-six acres, said to be 
inferior only to that of Versailles. It was laid out 
about the middle of the eighteenth century, by Carl 
Theodore, and contains Roman water-works, temples 
of Minerva, Apollo, and Mercury, a mosque, colossal 
figures of the Rhine and the Danube, fountains, flower 
gardens, promenades, &c. 

Would it not be a good speculation for some enter- 
prising Americans to get up garden entertainments in 
the neighborhood of large cities, it is so pleasant to 
take one's supper in the open air, while listening to 
good music ? Methinks some one objects, on the score 
of the behavior of our people ; more 's the pity. By 
the by, a lady showed me an article upon American 
manners, which she was intending for a newspaper. 
It read as follows: — 

"Europeans, in general, have very mistaken ideas 
of Americans; Americans such as we find the mass 
of them at home, we mean. They tell you that 
American women are the laziest people in the world ; 
that they sit in a rocking-chair froni morning till 



96 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUKOPE. 

night; know nothing of sewing, knitting, house-work 
and family duties ; are too indolent to walk in the open 
air, and consequently are very delicate and feeble; 
that they do not pretend to take charge of their chil- 
dren, &G. Now, we do not intend to say what we think 
of Americans at home, but we wish to show our coun- 
trymen how they are represented abroad, and we take 
the liberty to say, that the mass of Americans who 
travel now, and have travelled for a few years past, 
are the most impolite, ill-mannerly, rude, ostentatious, 
and disagreeable people that one meets. A few ex- 
amples may justify our remarks. Mr. A. is seated at 
table, in a fashionable hotel, of course, with a party of 
American friends. The head waiter has complied with 
his previous request in seating them together. Other 
guests take the places assigned them. Just as all are 
seated, another American acquaintance makes his ap- 
pearance at the door. Mr. A. is delighted to see him, 
and calls out, ' Come this way : here, waiter, give this 
gentleman a place near us.' 'I am very sorry, sir, 
that I cannot rearrange the seats; there are no more 
places at this end of the table.' * Yes, you can, too,' 
says A., in a loud voice; 'move some of those people 
farther down,' — looking significantly at some French 
ladies, who happen to understand English. 'Im- 
possible, sir,' says the waiter. ' I'll bet you'd find 
it possible, if I paid you for it,' cries A. The waiter's 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 97 

eyes flash fire, his cheeks redden at the insult, and he 
turns away, muttering, '■Americans.^ Mrs. C. comes 
sweeping with her long trail into the breakfast-room ; 
she bows most graciously to the file of young men 
ready to take her orders; she calls for the landlord, 
because he speaks English. *I want a bit of lunch,' 
she says, in a simpering tone; 'what can you give 
me ? ' * Anything you please, madam,' he answers. 
'Shall I read you the bill of fare ? ' 'Yes, do; I like 
to hear what you have.' She makes him read it three 
or four times over, then begs him to recommend some- 
thing which he thinks is nice. He does so ; the dish is 
brought and set before her ; she raises it, looks at it, 
smells of it, and finally tastes a bit of it ; then, making 
a face as if taking a dose of medicine, she pushes it 
from her, exclaiming, ' O, Lord, I cannot eat such 
stuff as that; do take it away.' Something else is 
brought, and shares the same fate : after fussing a while, 
she takes an English beefsteak. The landlord orders 
the prices'on the bill of fare to be raised, saying, ' In 
future these Americans shall pay for the trouble they 
make.' " 

Hearing a young lady setting forth the splendors of 
her New York home, we listened. She told her as- 
tonished hearers of the marble statues, frescoes, and 
original paintings of the great masters which adorned 
her father's house ; of the number of servants, and high 
7 



98 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

wages puid them ; of the stables, horses, and equi- 
pages ; and finally, of the convenience and comforts 
of the internal arrangements of the house — water and 
gas in every room. "But you do not have gas in your 
sleeping-rooms," objected an elderly gentleman ; "that 
would be very unhealthy." " O, yes, we do," she re- 
plied ; " but then our gas is difierent from yours — 
there's not a bit of smell to it; besides, all our sleep- 
ing-rooms are beautifully ventilated." A waiter re- 
jDorts what he has heard to headquarters. "Good!" 
says the host ; " if they are so enormously rich, they 
can pay well. Show them all attention ; give them 
whatever they ask for, and don't forget to charge." 

Two gentlemen are seated at an open window in a 
public room. Jonathan enters, takes a seat near them, 
and calls to the waiter to shut the window. "The 
gentlemen just told me to open it," he replies. " What 
do I care ! I want it shut. I've as good a right as 
they. Shut it, I say." 

We have been surprised to see the eagerness with 
which our good republicans seek the acquaintance of 
the nobility, and how much they feel flattered by an 
invitation from a duke, a bow from a prince, or a com- 
pliment from any of society's nabobs. 

The truth is, that American travellers live in English 
and American hotels; rush through the galleries of 
art; go to soirees, concerts, and theatres for a I'ew 



AN AMERICAlsr WOMAN IN EUROPE. 99 

days, and then make off to another city to go tbngugh 
the same routine. At length they come home, give 
their opinion of the manners and customs of the peo- 
ple with whom they have never mingled, criticise 
works of art at which they have only allowed them- 
selves a passing glance, and boast of the countries 
which they have " done up " in six months' travel. 

Unfortunately I could not, in conscience, deny the 
facts which she related, but only waited, hoping in 
time to be able to give a more favorable report of the 
manners of my countrymen. 

May ISth. A hearse standing on the opposite side 
of' the street, and two women, dressed in black, deco- 
rating it with bouquets, crosses, and wreaths. The 
moment the procession started the bells rung. Wo- 
men are hired to lay out the corpse, watch with it, 
trim the hearse with fiowers, and follow the funeral 
train to the graveyard in order to arrange the flowers 
there. The ceremonies over, they are permitted to 
rid 3 into the city, sitting on the back of the hearse. 

May 19th. Had a fine drive through Neuenhein and 
Handschuchsheim to the Bergstrasse. The air was 
clear and pure, and the fields looked beautifully — 
covered with grain, interspersed with bright-red pop- 
pies. The fruit trees had cast their blossoms to give 
place to the young fruit. The birds were singing their 
morning hymn ; and a mother stork, with her four 



100 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROrE. 

young ones, was looking down from their nest on a 
chimney-top, as if in admiration of the landscape. 
Every inch of ground was cultivated, and so highly 
cultivated, that you could imagine yourself to be in 
some grand, magnificent garden, or looking at a picture 
painted by fairy fingers. How much one lives in the 
hours spent with nature ! Coming home we chose the 
Nahe, a sort of ferry-boat, fastened on both sides the 
river by iron chains, with which it is worked across. 

June 11th. Professor Webber died of diphtheria ; 
a great loss to the university. It was said that he 
desired a post mortem examination, and described his 
own case precisely as the doctors found it. The Ger^ 
mans in H. called the diphtheria an American disease. 

June 16th. Another funeral, and quite different from 
the other which we saw in this place. It was that of 
a girl of fourteen, who had been confirmed but a short 
time previous. All the girls who were confirmed at the 
same time walked two by two, and some of them 
officiated as pall-bearers. All were dressed in white 
muslin, with white wreaths in the hair; some few wore 
white veils ; and what with white kid gloves, bouquets, 
ribbons, &c., they looked prettily as they walked be- 
hind the hearse, which was entirely covered with white 
flowers. 

Jutie l^th. We drove to Weinheim, one of the 
handsomest towns on the Bergstrasse, in company 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 101 

I 

with an American artist, who wished to make 
sketches. We walked about a long time, finding it 
difficult to choose a point, where all was so picturesque 
and beautiful. Finally, our artist seated herself on a 
log by die road-side, where she could see the old- castle 
of Windeck. Very soon, men and children gathered 
around us, at first keeping at a respectable distance, 
the latter gradually nearing as their interest increased. 
It was a beautiful sight, those ten or twelve village 
children, all handsome, some in rags and patches, with 
bare feet and gold earrings, their faces glowing with 
animation as they watched the progress of the artist. 

At Weghansel, between Heidelberg and Weinheim, 
is a large factory for making beet sugar, near which 
were acres and acres of beets. The crops of grain had 
been gathered and the young beets set out. 

Nothing can exceed the neatness and beauty of 
German fields, gardens, and woods ; all are scrupulous- 
ly clean; no stones, few weeds, no underbrush, no 
fences, or ugly, half-broken-down stone walls. Yet 
one misses the sight of cattle grazing in green pas- 
tures. 

June 22c?. I put my pillows in the window-seat, and 
hung the sheets out of a side window. Five minutes 
after a policeman came up, and ordered them to be 
taken in. All right, I thought, but would it not be 
more sensible to oblige the students to abate some of 



102 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

the nuisances which they perpetrate in their drunken 
frolics ? When we speak of students, we do not mean 
German students, who are, perhaps, 'among the best be- 
haved of the mixture of nationalities, nor do we mean 
the noble and rich exclusively, who have beeo repre- 
sented as fighting about their dogs, and the only class 
who glory in cutting each other's faces ; but we mean 
the high and low, noble and shoddy students from all 
countries, who go to the celebrated German institutions 
for the same purpose as tlieir papas and mammas 
travel, viz., to have something to talk about when they 
get home. 

A sail on the Neckar by moonlight is charming. 
Women are quite as efficient as men in the manage- 
ment of boats ; indeed, as far as labor is concerned, 
women are at liberty to do all kinds, and as much as 
they can. Think of a woman sixty-seven years of 
age earning her living by sculling passengers across 
the river ! 

June ^Ith. We went from Heidelberg to Man- 
heira, over the bridge to Ludwigshafen, and thence to 
Neustadt. Passed through fourteen tunnels on our 
way to Kaiserslautern and Zweibriicken. 

Our companions were a Frenchman, an Italian, and 
a German. We had a lively discussion upon the utility 
and beauty of our respective languages, each one try- 
ing to prove that his or hers was supeiior to any other. 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 103 

The hotel Zweibriicken in Zweibriicken is good: 
prices reasonable. We met old friends, with whom we 
walked about the town, and were not astonished that 
Stanislaus Lesczinsky, the Polish king, should have 
chosen so pleasant and comfortable a place of 
refuge. 

We went into a straw factory, where they offered 
us straw hats, with brims broad enough to serve for a 
parasol, at twelve kreutzers each. 

Jane 28. We took the post omnibus for Pirmasenz. 
The sky was overcast, and the air so cool that we 
were glad of our large shawls and rugs: had front 
seats, and a fine view of the surrounding country. 
We rode four hours up, up, and around high hills until 
we came to Pirmasenz. Our driver made no use of 
his whip, and he, with the gentlemen passengers, 
walked up the steepest points. The road all the way 
along was perfectly smooth, and bordered by tall pop- 
lars, which, for a considerable distance, were large and 
luxurious, but grew smaller, and, on the high lands, 
were thin and scraggly. At Pirmasenz we had a nice 
supper. Our chamber was large and well arranged; 
beds comfortable ; breakfast good ; bill moderate. 

We hired a carriage and span of the landlord; 
drove to Kaltebach over a fine road, and through a 
beautiful valley ; high hills on both sides, and a small 
stream of clear water running by the road-side. The 



104 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

air was cool and fresh, and it looked like rain when 
we started. By and by it cleared, and the sun shone, 
painting meadows and hills with beauty unsurpassed. 
From Kaltebach we drove to Dahn, where Nature 
has been working wonders. You see what you take 
to be the ruins of a castle, with broken arches, towers, 
windows, ramparts, bridges, &c., and when you ap- 
proach, it is only the bare rocks on a hill-side. There 
is a pile of stones in Dahn, called the Maiden-jump, 
because, as it is said, a maiden jumped from thence, and 
was killed. There are ladders from one point to an- 
other, and a fence around what would seem to be the 
altan, or balcony. It might be very interesting to 
climb up those rocks, but we were satisfied with look- 
ing at them from below. At another place, we saw 
a stone standing on the summit of a small hill; the 
whole looked like a gigantic figure with ^ cap on. 
Then again a flat stone, resting on two supporters, just 
like a table. The hills and mountains along the val- 
ley are indescribably beautiful. There is a constant va- 
riation in their appearance — detached, round, pointed, 
high, sweeping off in ranges at an immense angle, 
and others gracefully rising here and there, covered 
with grape-vines or grains. From Dahn we returned 
to Kaltebach, and from thence to Anweiler, where we 
paid for our carriage (having had six hours charming 
drive) seven guldens, two dollars and eighty cents. 



AN AMEEICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 105 

StopiDed at Speyer, on our way to Heidelberg, to see 
the handsome cathedral. 

Speyer is noted as being the place where the adhe- 
rents of Luther presented a protest to King Charles 
v., on the 19th of April, 1529, from which time they 
have been called Protestants. 

The whole expense of this delightful trip, from 
Heidelberg and back again, including hotel bills and 
carriage hire, was fourteen dollars for us two per- 
sons. It required three days, but might be accom- 
plished in less time. 

July 1. Removed to Weinheim, and celebrated 
the 4th by a drive to Birkenau. Bought whortleber- 
ries at two kreutzers per quart ; raspberries, six kreut- 
zers ; cherries, four kreutzers per pound. 

There is a large patent leather factory in Weinheim, 
which claims to be the best in the world. 

There was an extreme business carried on in honey, 
until the proprietors of the leather factory poisoned 
the bees, because they lighted upon and spotted the 
leather. A lawsuit was in process while we were 
there, one owner of the bees having sued the leather 
company for five hundred gulden damages to his bees. 
We did not learn the result. 

We visited the primary department of a large pri- 
vate school ; found the teacher, a young man, devoting 
his time to about a dozen small boys. They read. 



106 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

recited grammar, and answered questions in arith- 
metic. The only superiority in the method of teach- 
ing was, that the teacher had a small instead of a 
great number of pupils. Certainly the school build- 
ing was nothing in point of comfort, neatness, and 
convenience to our schools in and around Boston. 

July 11. Met with a carriage returning to Erbacli, 
and accej^ted the offer of the driver to go with him 
for two and a half guldens. Started at five P. M. 
Went through Birkenau, Reisen, Morlembach, Rim- 
bach, Lorzbach to Furth, where we had a plentiful 
supper for forty-two kreutzers. Started again at 
seven. Two Catholic priests, one belonging to Er- 
bach, joined us. They were both social and interest- 
ing travelling companions. Our driver was very tipsy, 
and reeled on his box, and we became somewhat 
alarmed for his safety ; but one of the priests assured 
us that he would not lose his balance ; and as to the 
horses, they were so accustomed to the road, that they 
could go safely without a driver. Naturally the con- 
versation turned upon drunkenness, and the priests 
told us that the increase of breweries within a i^^N 
years had very much decreased the use of spirituous 
liquors, and consequently there was much less drunk- 
enness than formerly. He said, moreover, that in 
those mountainous countries, where the water w;is 
generally bad, some spirituous liquor was absolutely 



AN AMEEICA:N' woman in EUROPE. 107 

necessary for health. He spoke feelingly of the ex- 
posure and fatigue of the postilions, who are obliged 
to go night and day, let the weather be what it would. 
On the top of a high hill we were admiring the 
scenery by moonlight, and wondering why it was so 
cool, when he told us that we were in the very centre 
of the Oden Wald (a range of mountains so called). 

At Erbach, the polite priest showed us to the hotel 
Burg, which he recommended for its extreme cleanli- 
ness. Here we had a large, nice chamber, and, tired 
as we were, the snow-white linen on the good mat- 
tresses was very inviting. We had just began to sleep, 
when we were roused by a noise we could not under- 
stand. Again we were awakened by a watchman, 
blowing twelve unearthly blasts upon an old horn, to 
let people know what o'clock it was, while some half 
dozen town clocks were striking the hour, most sys- 
tematically, one after the other. 

Next morning we visited the Graf Erbach's palace. 
By the number and variety of deer's horns in one of 
the apartments, it would seem that 'he is or was more 
engaged in hunting than politics. The old knights in 
armor, the guns and swords of various fashions, the 
Roman vases, &c., repay the antiquarian for. a visit. 

We passed through Michelstadt, Bresbach, Great 
Biberau, Rheinheim, Schwachbriicke, and Rossclorf, 
on our way to Darmstadt. 



108 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

Our ride through the Oden Wald was delightful. 
Mountain after mountain, in graceful undulations, rich 
fields of waving grain, chestnut trees in blossom, the 
mountain ash, the larch, and other trees in their vari- 
ous green hues, continually called forth our admira- 
tion. Near Darmstadt we saw acres of poppies in 
full bloom, and nothing could be prettier than the 
bright flowers, bordered as they were by fields of 
grain. The popi3y is extensively cultivated in Ger- 
many for salad oil, as well as for opium. Poppy seeds 
are used for some culinary purposes. The bread, 
with poppy seeds baked on the crust, is very pleasant- 
tasted. 

The residence of Princess Alice of England, in 
Darmstadt, is neat and handsome. She is much liked 
and respected by the people. 

Riding past the fields of potatoes and tobacco, and 
seeing women hoeing in them, reminds one of slave 
labor. We dare say that many of the German women 
work as hard as slave women ; but the difierence is 
great ; for the one works for her husband and chil- 
dren, and, though often severely lashed by necessity, 
she is happy in comparison to the negress, who labors 
for a taskmaster, and has. no right to call her children 
her own. 

Weinheim, as far back as 1645, was a large, impor- 
tant, and populous city, surrounded by a wall with 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 109 

watch-towers. The Castle Windeck, on a hill, must 
have been very handsome. There is a round tower, 
formerly used as a prison, which, divested of the idea 
of a prison-house, is quite an ornament to the town. 
There are some handsome residences and large gar- 
dens belonging to wealthy persons, who permit the 
public to enjoy their splendid grounds. We availed 
ourselves of such kindness almost daily. In all these 
handsome gardens, hollyhocks, of all colors, played a 
conspicuous part ; and, indeed, it would be difficult to 
find anything more pleasing to the eye in regard to 
form, variety of color, and simple sweetness. Beyond 
the tall hollyhock, in the distance, we saw the plains, 
presenting all imaginable shades of color; patches of 
red clover, purple, blue and yellow lucern, turnips, 
tobacco, different kinds of grain in their different 
stages of ripeness; wheat intermixed with the blue 
cornflowers, and red poppy, and the entire poppy fields 
of all colors. Add to this brilliancy the rich brown 
earth, which now and then comes in between as if for 
shade, and the immense number of different kinds of 
fruit trees, and you have a picture far more beautiful 
than we can describe. Hours and hours we sat 
gazing on the scene before us, mute with admira- 
tion. 

Ladenburg, the Koman Lupodunum, is but a short 
distance from Weinheim. There we found an ac- 



110 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUKOPE. 

quaintance, whose four daughters had been so vio- 
lently attacked with the American fever, which was 
then raging in all parts of Germany, especially among 
young women, that they, one and all, went to America, 
where they soon married, and were, at the time of our 
visit, writing home glowing accounts of our happy 
country. The old watch-towers and Gothic St. Gallus 
church of Ladenburg, are interesting mementos of 
the past. We saw tombstones bearing dates 1510, 
1513, 1614, and figures in stone^ which were perfectly 
grotesque. 

At another time we visited Heppenheim, another 
town, at the foot of the hills, on the Bergstrasse. The 
town must be Catholic, from the number of images of 
Christ and the Virgin w^hich one sees. If they would 
only make these images better looking, one w^ould feel 
more comfortable in seeing so many of them ; but they 
are as ugly as possible, and without the least expression 
of love or spirituality. Children swarmed like flies; 
now sitting in squads, now picking up the manure in the 
streets, some with their hands, and others w^ith a stick 
or an old spoon, and pressing it into baskets or boxes, 
to carry to their homes ; here a little girl staggering 
under a load of fresh grass upon her head ; another 
with a fat baby in her arms ; there a* group playing 
with young geese, which come at their call. Notwith- 
standing these children were all poorly clad, and many 



. AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. Ill 

of them barefooted, their hair was nicely combed and 
braided, their faces clean, and their general appearance 
pleasing, as they tm-ned their chubby faces to look upon 
us strangers, and give us the usual salutation. The 
ruins of Starkenburg, a memorial of 805, are on the 
hill above the town. 

There are many well-to-do old farmers living in 
Weinheim, who adhere strictly to their old fashions, 
never stepping beyond the beaten track of their fore- 
fathers. It looked odd enough to see these old men 
come into church with their three-cornered hats and 
long-waisted surtouts. It is perfectly useless to talk to 
them of modern improvements : they protested against 
the railroad, and really prevented the building of a 
depot in Weinheim for a long time. 

We made frequent visits to a gardener's: bought let- 
tuce at one kreutzer per head, onions at the rate of four 
for a kreutzer, gooseberries (were high), six kreutzers per 
quart. A pot of heliotrope, eight kreutzers ; a large lem- 
on verbena, almost a tree, twenty-tour kreutzers ; fuchsia, 
twelve kreutzers, and others at the same rate ; dahlias 
abundant ; they blossom the second week in July. 

In cities you can arrange with a gardener to keep 
your windows filled with plants in blossom. He takes 
away those which have ceased flowering, and replaces 
them by others in flower, so that you have a constant 
variety of fine flowers for less than you would pay for a 
single plant at home. 



112 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

Sometimes we went to the depot (a good place, by 
the way) to see the people, and mark their doings. 

July 2Sth. It had been raining hard, and was quite 
cool for the season, yet a merry party assembled in a 
public garden where they had fine music, and we went 
to the depot to see them and others. First, a party of 
students, who had made what they called a Fuss-partie, 
(foot party), from Heidelberg; each student was ac- 
companied by his dog; they talked and laughed in high 
glee. Then came a motley assembly of highly-dressed 
ladies and gentlemen, soldiers in gala attire, little girls 
and boys looking like dolls, peasants in their Sunday 
caps and clean, blue frocks ; then a stage-coach full ; 
others with dogs, horses, &c. — nearly all standing on 
the platform, and in front of the depot, made a queer 
living picture. One finely-dressed, gray-headed, spec- 
tacled-nosed gentleman took it into his head to turn 
somersaults on the platform, at which the bystanders 
shouted and laughed, but his lady looked anything but 
pleased. His face was very red, and he had, to all 
appearance, succeeded in counteracting the cold with- 
out by kindling a fire within. His handsome coat was 
soiled by the experiment, and cost some hard rubs on 
the part of his friends to restore it to its pristine glory. 
While I was looking at him, some well-filled bags, 
which a peasant had lain near my feet, began to im- 
itate the gentleman, by turning somersaults in a most 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 113 

mysterious manner. On inquiry, we found that said 
bags were filled with live poultry for market. 

The people, bent on having a good time, formed a 
circle around a man who beat time for them while 
they sang and danced, until a whiz ! whiz ! reminded 
them that they were waiting for the cars. 

August 1st. We took up our residence in Biebrich, 
first at Hotel Bellevue, where we had large rooms and 
good fare, at reasonable prices. The Hotel Rhine, on 
the opposite side of the street, is much more fashionable 
and much more expensive. After a while we hired 
rooms with a private family, and took our meals at the 
Bellevue. At both places we had a fine view of the 
river, where steamers were constantly plying up and 
down. . 

Biebrich is a fashionable summer resort, and a very 
lively place. There is much driving to and from Wies- 
baden. There are excellent bathing-houses and swim- 
ming schools, which are extremely well conducted, and 
attract many persons to the place. 

The castle facing the Rhine, which belonged to 
Adolph of N^assau, was unoccupied. It was built in 
1706, is handsome, and quite unlike the others which 
front on the river. The gardens are spacious, and con- 
tain a good collection of tropical jjlants and beautiful 
palms. There were thousands of rose bushes, and in 
some parts of the garden the very air was fragrant with 



114 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

them. Most of the monthly and tea roses were in full 
bloom, and hanging in rich clusters. The lawns were 
interspersed with patches of flowers, now all of one 
kind, then all kinds and colors together, looking like a 
huge bouquet. The greenhouses are extensive and 
valuable. There are several ponds, on some of which 
are pleasure-boats ; on others, swans, ducks, &c. The 
garden was open to the public at all hours of the day, 
and no person thought of touching a flower or injuring 
a shrub. Smoking was not allowed on the premises. 

We took most of our meals, our suppers certainly, 
in the gardens, when it did not rain. Teachers were 
in the habit of coming there with their pupils. We 
saw a lady with a class of girls making their supper 
of bread, butter, cheese, and beer, or chocolate and 
bread. All the tables — and there were many of 
them — were usually filled in those delightful gardens, 
where, sitting under the shade of large trees, you could 
see the steam and sail-boats, with their passengers, on 
one side of you, and fine carriages, with gayly-dressed 
people, on the other. Musicians also frequented the 
gardens, and gained considerable by the small con- 
tributions of the many, who willingly gave a few kreut- 
zers, if not to hear the music, at least to witness the 
pleasure it aflbrded the children, who never failed 
to dance. 

When we saw German children dance, we under- 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 115 

stood why a German domestic in America expressed 
her astonishment at children being sent to dancing- 
scliool. "Why," said she, "dancing is born in the 
children where I came from." No doubt it was so in 
her villao;e. 

August 4:th, A large party from the neighboring 
towns assembled at the hotel for a dance. It was Sun- 
day. Many of them had been to church in the morn- 
ing, and would dance in the evening. Sunday is to 
them a day of recreation and amusement. 

A good-looking young man was pointed out to us as 
one who worked on hire, viz., received his board and 
thirty kreutzers per week as a barber. 

August bth, JP. M. We took a trip by steamer to 
Eltville, noted in German history as being the place 
where King Giinther, of Schwarzburg, renounced his 
crown in 1349. In modern times it is a point from 
which pedestrians like to start on their delightful tours 
through this so-called garden of Germany. 

We walked about the town ; entered a church bear- 
ing date 1500 and odd. Its tower is large and massive ; 
walls crumbling. In the church are a group of stone 
figures, representing Christ saying to his disciples, 
" What : could ye not watch," &c. 

A ticket from Biebrich to Eltville costs eio^hteen 
kreutzers; one there and back costs twenty-one kreutz- 
ers ; so that you go for eighteen and come back for three. 



116 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

We inquired the cause of this discrepancy, and were 
told that the boats go easily and quickly down the 
river, and come up slowly, and at times with difficulty; 
so that many persons would take the cars coming back 
if the return tickets did not offer an inducement to 
j^atronize the steamers both up and down. Some parts 
of the Rhine, particularly near Bingen, are difficult of 
navigation, especially in dry seasons, on account of the 
accumulation of sand. 

August Qth. Went to Wiesbaden to hear the music. 
Saw ladies dressed in rich silks, under full-sized lace 
cloaks, and some had long braids of hair hanging down 
behind, like Chinamen. A Russian nurse, in costume, 
was more beautiful than any of them. She had on a 
full skirt, light cherry-red; white waist, with full 
sleeves *to the elbow ; broad, red shoulder-straps ; 
girdle, and trimmings on the front of the skirt, yellow 
and gold tinsel; red cap, with standing visor, trimmed 
with gold beads and cord; necklace and bracelets; 
large, amber beads. 

August 1th. The road from Neudorff to Rauenthal 
is ascending, and somewhat steep. We passed a party 
going on foot. They took it leisurely, stopping to 
pick berries on the way. 

Rauenthal is an old town ; the pavements are poor, 
and it is altogether a rough-looking place. We stopped 
at the best of the many inns which offered us shelter. 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 117 

Left our carriage, and started for the point of observa- 
tion on the hill, called Khineberg. A sign-board 
marked the place as four minutes' distance. We 
never heard a German speak of distance by measure- 
ment — always by the time required in walking. We 
hurried on, as the sky was black and threatening; 
found it would take nearer twenty than four minutes ; 
so we returned to the inn, passed the party of ladies 
and gentlemen, who were " marching on." We had 
just entered the house when it began to rain in tor- 
rents. They offered us sweet wine, of an extra fine 
quality, at the very moderate price of thirty kreutzers 
(twenty cents) per bottle. After the shower we drove 
to the Rhineberg. The air was fine. A man stood on 
the top of the hill with a telescope. What a pano- 
rama ! We could see from Mainz to Bingen, and all 
the towns and villages between. Johannisberg, the 
Rochus Capelle, and Catholic Church in Kempton, 
looked quite familiar. The hills, the hills were our 
continual admiration ! O, reader, we cannot tell you 
of the wondrous beauty of the Rhine! You must see 
for yourself; or, if you do not see, believe all the fine 
things which have been written about the Rhine — • 
and more too. 

We had a charming ride back to Biebrich ; were dry 
and comfortable ; whilst the party whom we saw were 
wet through, and saw nothing. 



118 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

August IWi. We sailed up to Mainz. Went to the 
fair, where, among other things, was an extra fine show 
of pottery. Then into a tent to see some celebrated 
gymnasts, who made pyramids, standing on each other's 
shoulders. Very small children performed astonishing 
feats, and were thrown about the stage like so many 
dead chickens. Two men played well on violins while 
sitting, lying, bending over, standing on each other's 
head, &c. From this entertainment we went to the 
Anlage, a large and handsome place, with every ac- 
commodation for company. There were several hun- 
dreds of people in the garden listening to the music, 
played by a military band, with as much interest as if 
hearing it for the first time. 

We heard that two women had swam down the 
river and under the pontoon-bridge at Mainz ; then 
whirled into a boat, rowed, and performed several featS) 
to the entertainment of the vast crowd on the bridge, 
attracted by the novelty of the scene. 

August l^th. A firing of cannon and great display 
of flags. All the steamboats crowded. The Duke of 
Nassau's birthday, and the Princess of Wales expected 
on her way to Wiesbaden, where she hoped to leave 
her rheumatism. 

The fire in Frankfort, by which the Cathedral was 
burned, was the chief topic of conversation. Such 
was the panic of the Frankforters, that many packed 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 119 

their valuables, expecting the whole city would burn. 
The fire broke out in eight clifFerent places. Several 
serious accidents occurred. 

When the fire had subsided, people dug out the 
molten bell, and sold it in bits, for keepsakes, to those 
crowded about the ruins. 

The arrival of some Kussians at the house where we 
were afforded us much amusement. They had sev- 
eral carriages filled wilh wooden boxes, old broken 
bird-cages, worn-out boots, old furs, and traps in- 
numerable. They were well-dressed people, observed 
much etiquette, and passed themselves off as nobility. 

August 19th. Took the steamer for Cologne. The 
weather was perfect, and there were continued ejacula- 
tions of wonder and delight from the passengers (Eng- 
lish, American, German, French, and Italian), as we 
passed the ruins of Ehrenfels ; the Mausethurm (near 
Bingen) a point of interest to the lovers of the marvel- 
lous on account of Bishop Hatto's fate; Rheinstein 
Castle, renewed by Frederick of Prussia in 1829 ; the 
Pfalz, with its numerous little towers; the ruins of 
Schonberg ; the Lurlei, well known through H. 
Heine's song, famous for its echo; the Rheinfels; the 
fortress Marxburg ; Lahneck ; Stolzenfels ; Roland- 
seek ; Drachenfels ; the Siebengebirge (seven moun- 
tains), &G. How those strong castles were built on 
the summits of the high hills, when they were built, 



120 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUKOPE. 

for what purpose they were built, why more of them 
were not rebuilt, and the like, were the queries of the 
elder passengers ; while the younger, many with their 
sketch-books, were discussing the different points of 
beauty of each, as shaded by a passing cloud, they 
repelled our inquisitiveness, or, bathed in the sunlight, 
seemed to say, "Are we not more beautiful in our 
ruins, with our mossy ornaments, than our modernized 
neighbors ? " 

The hotel Ernst, in Cologne, had been recommend- 
ed to us, and thither we went. 

August 21st. We made a business of sight-seeing. 
The Dome, the greatest work in German Gothic archi- 
tecture, begun in 1248, was on the opposite side of the 
street, and the nearly-finished side almost in front of 
the windows of our chamber. The church proper is 
open to all, but visitors willingly contribute towards 
the completion of the building, which, they say, will 
require one hundred and fifty years more. 

From the Dome we went to the Church of St. Ur- 
sula. There were a great number of skulls in glass 
cases along the walls of the church. They told us 
that they were the skulls of the eleven thousand vir- 
gins who suffered martyrdom A. D. 460. A large 
number of school-boys, with their books and slates 
under their arms, were kneeling on low benches in 
the centre of the church, and one boy read prayers 



AN AMEKICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 121 

in a distinct and audible manner. One solitary little 
girl was kneeling on the cold stones, near the outer 
door, with upraised eyes ; a painter might have taken 
her as a model for a saint. A priest invited us to see 
the church treasures. We followed into a room, on 
one side of which was an altar covered with red cloth 
embroidered with gold. All around the room were 
skulis, some covered with rich velvet cloths, some 
under silver or metal heads, which served for covers. 
The skull of St. Ursula was on the altar, decked with 
a red velvet cap ornamented with pearls and precious 
stones, the whole under a glass shade. The entire 
ceiling was covered with bones, arranged in figures. 
Small ivory boxes were filled with the teeth of the 
difierent virgins. Besides these, the priest showed us 
the iron spike with which St. Ursula was killed, a 
piece of the cross on which Christ was crucified, one 
of the stone jars used at the marriage in Cana of Gali- 
lee. He said that the eleven thousand virgins had 
just returned from a pilgrimage to Rome, when they 
were met by the Huns, and every one killed on the 
spot where the church now stands. By means of a 
dove the bishop had been enabled to tell which body 
was that of St. Ursula herself. The priest related 
much more, all in a mechanical manner, after which 
he showed the tariff. 

We saw the house in which Rubens was born, and 



122 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

where Maria de Medici took reiuge wheu baiiislied by 
Richelieu. 

We were displeased with the hotel — service not 
good ; prices extortionous. 

At the hotel Rheineck, in Bonn, we found good 
fare, good rooms, and good service, at reasonable 
charges — supper, breakfast, and lodging, for two 
persons, six gulden. The university at Bonn is 
considered one of the best in Germany. 

August 22d. Took the steamer at six A. M. Amer- 
ican ladies and gentlemen came on board, who were 
not in very good humor, and, mistaking us for Ger- 
mans, they allowed themselves to continue a terrible 
sharp-shooting of words in their native tongue. It 
seemed that they had filed off from a large party, and, 
though reduced to a comparatively small number, 
could not agree about their route, one wishing to go 
by cars, another by steamer, one here and another 
there. The quarrel ended in pouts on the part of the 
ladies, who expressed their hatred of travelling, and 
oaths on the part of the gentlemen, who called for 
brandy and cards to while away their time. 

A party of half a dozen were sitting at breakfast; 
some young men were learning the value of German 
coins from a Germnn ; an elderly Englishman was 
studying his Murray's Guide Book. We were quite 
sure that not one of these individuals noticed either 



AN AMERICAlSr WOMAN IN EUROPE 123 

shore of the Rhine for three quarters of an hour, al- 
though we were passing its most interesting points ; 
and we were equally sure that one and all of them 
would not hesitate to give their opinion upon this 
same part of the Rhine, or declare that they had seen 
everything worth seeing. The fare on board some of 
the Rhine steamers is excellent. A meal of mutton 
chops, fried potatoes, bread, coffee, and wine, cost 
thirty-seven kreutzers (twenty-five cents) each ; other 
things in proportion. About the most expensive is an 
English beefsteak. 

August 23(i. We stopped again at Lahnstein to see 
our American friend. While there, we heard of a 
pilgrimage to Trier (Treves), made by Catholics every 
spring. The last spring there were nineteen thousand, 
men, women, and children. They started at nine A. M. 
for a convent which stands on a hill, and arrived at four 
P. M. They went three steps forward and two steps 
backward. From this fact, they are called the " Spring- 
ers." Many were exhausted, and some gave out by the 
way. 

We met two ladies from Friesland, in costume. One 
wore a plate of gold about the back part of her head ; 
it was very wide, and in the form of a shield, turned 
out and over at the ears like a projecting sign. Her 
head was covered with embroidered white lace, hang- 
ing down over her shoulders. She wore ear-rings, and 



124 AN AMERICAN^ WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

vai'ious pins iu her lace and liair; also finger-rings, 
studied with brilliants : although odd, it looked pretty. 
The other lady had the same kind of lace head-dress, 
but instead of the broad, plain gold about her head, 
she wore two large gold twists (much in the form of a 
French bed-spring), one projecting from either cheek. 
We also saw a beautiful little child, who had been sit- 
ting as a model for an angel in a church picture. Slic 
had flaxen curls, large blue eyes, small mouth, rosy 
cheeks, and a charming expression. 

We were surprised to see what a quantity of cucum- 
bers the people eat. They cut them in thin slices, 
spnnkle with salt, pour cold boiled water upon them, 
and allow them to stand about an hour ; after which 
they pour oif the water, and dress the cucumbers with 
oil, vinegar, and pepper; this salad is not hurtful. 
They also eat salt cucumbers with bread and butter, 
which we found very palatable. 

August 26^A. We were put into a back room in 
our hotel at Biebrich. Looked out of the window, and 
saw the hotel keeper and his wife washing two pigs ; 
the wife poured on water from a watering-pot, and tlie 
husband scrubbed first one and then the other with a 
broom. Tlie pigs stood still, and seemed to enjoy it. 

jP. 31. Took steamer for Mannheim. It cost half 
the price of cars, and was much pleasanter. We passed 
tjae night at hotel " Schwartzer Lowe." Paid for 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 125 

lodging and breakfast for two, three gulden (one dollar 
and twenty cents). Going from Mannheim to Carls- 
ruhe, a lady in the cars, complained bitterly of the 
hotels in Cologne, where she had been absolutely 
cheated, besides being overcharged ; said she had 
travelled a great deal, but never before felt that she 
had been ill used. She did not believe that strangers 
were mostly imposed upon ; said it made no difference, 
and that a German traveller often paid more for the 
same things than the American or English ; and her 
reason was obvious — the latter travel continually, 
while the former do not. In the one case, the hotel- 
keeper hopes to be recommended ; in the other, he 
cares only for present gain. 

August Zlst. Walking in the Lichtenthal Alley, at 
eight A. M., we met the Queen of Prussia, who was tak- 
ing a morning walk. She looked well in her simple, 
neat dress of white lustre, or piquet, bound with black, 
a black straw hat with white feather; not a jewel, 
flower, ribbon, not a bit of lace, or anything of trim- 
ming kind, to be seen. Her lady companion was also 
neatly attired in blue and white muslin. 

At noon we took seats in the garden of Hotel Bava- 
ria, that we might see the vehicles and people as they 
went to the races. I had paper and pencil, and wrote : 
public carriages, or droschkes, two hundred ; private 
carringes, seventy; common straw wagons, twenty or 



126 AN AMERICAN AVOMAN IN EUROPE. 

thirty ; straw carriages, fifteen ; handsome vehicles, 
about seventy : the queen's was very neat, and drawn 
by black horses; she was dressed in white, as at eight 
o'clock in the morning. The ladies generally were 
much dressed. Some of the carriages were extra 
fine ; one had six white horses, with white trappings ; 
several persons rode with postilions; a very few went 
on horseback. We were told that people would pay 
almost any price for a vehicle, drive out to the 
grounds, and sit three hours in the hot sun, to see 
the racing. A jockey was thrown from his horse ; 
broke his arm ; mounted again, put the reins between 
his teeth, and rode, with his arm dangling, to the end 
of the race, which he won. 

P. M. We went to the promenade ; saw Prince 
Sturza; the queen again; Duke Richelieu, who looked 
poor and old ; Mustapha Pacha, brother to the Viceroy 
of Egy|)t, — he was in citizens' dress, — a fine-looking 
man; the Princess Papisca; gentlemen of tha queen's 
suite ; Cora, the singer, of French notoriety ; and many 
others. I must not forget the Duke of Hamilton, who 
had lost eight hundred thousand dollars at the last 
Derby races. 

September 2d. We spent a few hours in the city 
of Strasburg; went to the cathedral, and waited tor 
the clock to strike twelve, that we might see the won- 
derful moveaients of the great astronomical clock. 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 127 

The cock on the top flapped his wings and crowed ; the 
jDrocession of apostles began to march ; as they passed 
the figure of Christ, it lifted up its hands to bless 
each separately ; at the third stroke, an angel reversed 
his hour-glass, another hammered three times, and the 
figure of Death beat the hours iii time with the clock ; 
the whole is a most wonderful piece of mechanism ; 
it was renovated in 1842. 

Saw some immense pericarps of poppies in an apoth- 
ecary's store ; bought one which measured eight inches 
in circumference. The depot of Strasburg was a per- 
fect Babel of confusion; an American, ^vho could 
speak only English, was there. He told us that he 
left America the preceding April, since which, he had 
seen France, Switzerland, .Italy, Egypt, Syria, a part 
of Turkey, Austria, and all Germany, and was hurry- 
ing on to see England, Scotland, and Ireland, as he 
intended to be in America about the middle of Oc- 
tober. We forgot to ask if he was a correspondent 
for some New York journal. 

From Strasburg we went to Kehl, Offenburg, and 
Hausach, where we took the coach to Hornberg. 
A jDrofessor, from Heidelberg, with twelve pupils, ac- 
companied us ; many of the pupils were English. It 
is quite a common thing for teachers to make what 
they call " foot parties," and walk from place to place 
with their pupils during vacations. We all put up at 



128 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

the Hotel Biir ; had cleUcious trout for supper : the boys 
were in high glee, and not in the least fastidious about 
their meal ; they found everything which was set 
before them good. They had taken their breakfist, 
and were just ready to start, when we descended to 
the hall, at six A. M. We took tlie post-coach at eight, 
rode through a delightful valley, up high hills, stopped 
a few moments at Tryberg, Gutach, the little Holle, St. 
Georgen. When the horses are good, and the driver 
kind and communicative, this is the most agreeable 
way of travelling. The roads are perfect, scarcely a 
loose stone in the way, and you have no anxiety, for 
both man and beast know every inch of the road, and 
you have the best opportunity of seeing the country. 
Then it is fun to stop at \he various towns for the 
post; to hear the questions asked and the remarks 
made ; to see people run into an inn for something to 
supply the inner man, and return with a sausage and a 
piece of rye bread, or a piece of rye bread buttered, and 
a thin slice of white bread laid over it. By the by, go 
where you will in Germany, you are sure to find a veal 
cutlet. Many travellers carry a bottle of light wine 
with them " for their stomach's sake," not for their "of- 
ten infirmities," for the Germans, at least, do not seem 
to have many. We never heard one complain of dys- 
pepsia while we were among them, and we attribute it 
to their eating little or no pastry or puddings, and al- 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 129 

ways having good bread. They have soups and salads 
daily ; they take time to eat, which is an important 
consideration when it is a question of health; they 
drink tea but seldom, and walk and sit much in the 
open air. We notice that they use few condiments, 
their food being well seasoned in the cooking. 

The picturesqueness of the houses in the Black 
Forest drew our attention, and a young woman, who 
was well acquainted there, told us that they were very 
comfortable and convenient ; she said that many fami- 
lies make a good living by braiding straw for factories 
in the neighborhood; children begin to braid when 
they are six years old, and soon learn to braid well 
and fast ; the best braiders could sometimes earn half a 
gulden — twenty cents — in a day. She spoke of half 
a gulden as an enormous sum to gain in one day. We 
saw women and children standing in the fields, and 
by the road-side, with their straw work in their hands, 
and they seemed to braid with the same ease as Ger- 
man w^omen knit. The peasant women whom we 
met wore white straw hats, with high crowns ; these 
hats were trimmed with large, heavy rosettes of thick 
black or brown woollen cloth; we had become so used 
to seeing bareheaded women, that these looked quite 
uncomfortable. Beautiful heath and the rich silver 
thistle were abundant on the hill-sides. 

We entered the Black Forest by Offenburg — people 
9 



130 i)N AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 

in general go by Freiburg. We stopped at Donau- 
eschingen, and put up at the " Post Hotel." From 
Strasburg to Donaueschingen cost us twelve gulden, 
including hotel bill. 

The source of the Danube River is a small spring in 
the palace garden of Prince Fiirstenberg ; the spring is 
surrounded by an iron railing, and there are steps to go 
down to the water which is very clear. It runs along 
under ground for about eight miles, uniting with other 
sources and streams, so that it is of considerable size 
when it appears above ground. We thought the green- 
house and gardens of the prince quite insignificant 
when compared with those of the Dukes of Nassau and 
Baden. The palace is a very simple, plain building, 
four stories high, and twenty-one windows to a story. 
Beautiful black swans, with red beaks, entertained us 
while sitting near the pond. A gentleman was once 
attacked by a swan ; he struck it with his umbrella 
across the neck, killing it immediately. From this 
circumstance he has been called the "Knight of the 
Swans." 

The market women w^ere dressed in black, with 
very full black aprons, knotted up behind, short 
sleeves, white and full, red kerchiefs over their heads, 
and red stockings, with black slippers. They were 
neat and clean, and looked prettily. 

Again we took the post-stage, saw various castles 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 131 

and ruins, and that picture of varied colored vegeta- 
tion, looking as if arranged in circles, stripes, and 
patches, to please the eye of the beholder, rather than 
enrich the farmer. 

It was gratifying to hear that the Italians, engaged 
in tunnelling for the railroad now in construction 
through the Black Forest, are quite remarkable for 
their industry and sobriety. Our informant said that 
they used no stimulating drinks, were frugal, never 
quarrelled among themselves, and were far superior 
in their speciality to other workmen. We stopped at 
Engen, — a new station at the commencement of the 
railroad, — took the cars for Constancz, where we re- 
mained only a few hours, then took the steamer to Ro- 
manshorn. An Englishman on board was vexed with a 
German, and seemed disposed to pick a quarrel with 
him ; but he, unconscious of the meaning of the angry 
words directed to him, sat mutely admiring himself, his* 
gold chains, rings, &c., to our great amusement. The 
lake was calm as calm could be, and the water of the 
purest blue-green. It is bordered by the territories 
of Bavaria, Baden, Wurtemburg, Austria, and Swit- 
zerland. At Romanshorn we entered a third-class 
restaurant by mistake, had a miserable dinner, for 
which we paid a high price. Thus far we had fared 
best in second-class hotels and second-class cars. 

Septemher bth. We located ourselves at Hotel 



132 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

Scheller, in Zurich, the great manufacturing town 
of Switzerland. There are fine stores, well-paved 
streets, good sidewalks, handsome houses, and plenty 
of gardens in the city: 

P. 31. Took a sail to Rapperschwyl, with New 
York shoddies on the steamer. A young miss was 
much shocked at her mamma's illiterate and ungram- 
matical conversation ; but the more she tried to hush 
her up, the more determined the old lady was to have 
her say, and her own way of saying it. 

The pretty villages and green hills, dotted with 
white houses to their summits, offered ara^^le topics 
of conversation to those of the party who could not 
boast of having done up Norway and Italy. 

Two days after, the landlord of Hotel Scheller, who 
had treated us in a friendly manner, asked if we did 
not intend to leave soon, said the cholera was on the 
increase, and he did not think it safe for us to remain. 
AU praise to such an hotel-keeper ; he deserves to have 
his house filled in healthy times. At parting,*^ he 
shook us heartily by the hand, and expressed the 
wish to see us again. Prices at this hotel very fair. 
We left Zurich at one, and arrived at Lucerne at 
half past three P. M. A party, who had been up 
the Rigi, came into the depot with their long poles. 
This going up the mountain seemed to be a matter 
of fashion, so much so, that some corpulent old ladies, 



AN AMEKICAN AVOMAN IN EUROPE. 133 

who found it difficult to go any distance on a smooth, 
even road, bought poles, and had their names, and the 
places to which people went, marked on them, so as 
to give themselves the appearance of having been in 
the fashion. 

The fine hotels of Lucerne were well filled with 
strangers, many of whom were Americans. 

While sitting on the promenade, we saw a nun in 
full white dress, except the long black ribbons from 
her hair. Crowds of women were going to church in 
dark dresses, with white aprons and straw hats. Here, 
for the first time, we saw water hens swimming on 
the lake ; people fed them from the shore. Every- 
body who goes to Lucerne sails as often as possible 
on the lake, to see Pilatus and Rigi, the scenery "of 
the four Swiss cantons, — Uri, Unterwalden, Schwytz, 
and Lucerne, — and the snow-capped Alps. Of course 
we did the same ; and the more we went, the more 
we wanted to go. This lake, distinguished above 
all others by the beauty and grandeur of its scenery, 
is fourteen hundred and six feet above the level of 
the sea. 

We had the good fortune to be introduced to a 
gentleman belonging to one of the towns on the lake, 
who showed us all the points of particular interest 
— where Tell is said to have pushed Gesler off in 
the boat ; the little chapel erected to Tell's memory ; 



134 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

the stone with his name inscribed upon it ; the pen- 
sions high up on the hills, and many other objects, be- 
sides telling us the names of mountain peaks, and 
advising us about our route. 

From Flueln, a small and unhealthy village, we 
went to Altorf, and from Altorf to Burglen, where 
Tell was born. We j^assed a graveyard dazzling with 
brass crosses and brass suns. The hotel near it was 
"To the Sun." The sun in heaven was shining bright- 
ly, and altogether it looked very sunny, though a grave- 
yard. 

Our accommodations at the Hotel Schwan were 
indifferent, and the charges very high ; for example, an 
ordinary candle, one franc. There was a general com- 
plaint among travellers of having to pay exorbitantly 
for common fare. 

No one should miss seeing Thorwaldsen's Lowen 
monument (Lion monument), to the memory -of the 
Swiss Guards who were killed, in Paris, August 10, 
1792. It is twenty-eight feet long, and eighteen feet 
high — an admirable work of art. 

September ^th. Went to Alpnach, where were 
vehicles of various kinds to take passengers to Mey- 
ringen. A terrible bustle and confusion ensued, every- 
body teasing for his or her place, which had been paid 
for, and marked on a ticket. The poor conductor was 
almost beside himself, and kept crying out, "Un petit 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 135 

moment, un petit moment." By some mistake, du- 
plicates for our seats had been given ; two gentlemen 
were in possession, and we left standing in the hot 
sun. After a while the conductor procured an extra 
carriage, into which we were packed, with two ladies 
and their boxes. 

Women, children, and beggars followed, and ran 
along beside the carriages as they wound slowly up 
the mountains. " Buy fruit, sir ? " "A tumbler of 
milk?" "Edelweiss, madam?" "Water, water!" 
" Strawberries, gentlemen and ladies ! " " Money, 
money ! " with occasional Swiss songs, took all the 
small coins with which we had provided ourselves, 
and we only wished that we had more, for they dearly 
earned it by running up those steep places. It was a 
matter of astonishment to us that gentlemen and 
ladies, who spent such heaps of money for foolish and 
unnecessary things, should grudge a few coppers to 
these poor people. We heard one gentleman say, 
" I do enough for the poor at home. I did not come 
hel'e to support beggars." 

There is something so grand and impressive in that 
Swiss scenery, going up the mountains, that one's devo- 
tional feelings are continually exercised ; but the com- 
ing down from those immense heights, although the 
roads are good, is truly frightful. You feel as if your 
life depended upon a bit of rope or chain. 



136 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

It was seven o'clock when we arrived at the " Hotel 
du Sauvage," Meyriugen, where were a great num- 
ber of English people. After supper, we exerted our- 
selves to see the lighting up of a large waterfall, which 
is one of the great attractions to the hotel. It was 
very fine while it lasted, — about three minutes, — but 
we did not think it j^aid for the trouble. Our travelling 
companions — Scotch ladies and an old French gen- 
tleman — entertained us with music until ten o'clock. 

We strolled about the town all the next forenoon. 
While sitting near the waterfall, a school passed us. 
The children carried singing books open in their hands, 
and sang as they walked along; were bareheaded, 
and 4yessed mostly in dark calico. 

Our stronger half climbed uj^ a good distance ; found 
an artist painting a picture of the Alps, and ladies 
making sketches. He procured some Edelweiss — an 
odd-looking, woolly little flower. At the hotel were 
a fine collection of Alpine flowers, and some beauti- 
fully carved wood- work. 

Our hotel bill was much more than we had ex- 
pected. From Meyringen to Brienz, by coach, was two 
hours ; from Brienz to Interlacken by steamboat, one 
hour. 

September 10?A. We drove to the German hotel, 
kept by a widow. Her house was full ; so she j^i'O- 
cured a nice room for us in a Swiss cottage. My 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 137 

waiting-maid was a charming girl, very prettily 
dressed. Her sleeves were white as snow, and very 
stiff; her corsage was of black velvet ; and her beauti- 
ful hair was braided, and brought round her head. 

The air was very invigorating, and we were enabled 
to take Ion 2: walks. 

Two little girls, with baskets of small carved articles 
for sale, sj^oke prettily, seemed anxious to sell, and we, 
disposed to buy, selected several articles, asking the 
price of each. In attempting to pay for them, we 
were astonished at the trickery and shrewdness which 
the children displayed while trying to get more than 
they had charged ; so we left them without buying 
anything, after warning them to be honest in future. 

I have no words to paint the natural beauty of In- 
terlacken. Its fine position between the lakes, in full 
view of the Jungfrau, attracts many visitors. The 
hotels are large and handsome. The Jungfraublick 
stands high, and commands an extensive view. The 
Victoria is a handsome establishment. There are 
hotels all along one side of a street for a long dis- 
tance. It is there as elsewhere ; if you choose the 
most fashionable, the grandest, you must expect to pay 
for it. 

Our landlady brought us a nice dish of wild straw- 
berries — strawberries on the 11th of September. She 
said that she had had j^lenty since the middle of 



138 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

July; but these were about the last. The honey, 
butter, cheese, and milk were the best we ever tasted. 
We met a Boston friend at the Kursaal. He said that 
he always supposed it was very beautiful in Inter- 
lacken, but that he found it more so than he had ever 
conceived. He could only express his admiration by 
exclaiming, "Wonderful!" Wonderful, we added — 
wonderful in beauty, and awful in grandeur! 

My pretty maid told me that nearly all the cottages 
which I saw high up the hill-sides were used for mak- 
ing butter and cheese, and for storing hay. She said 
her family owned a great many cows, which pastured 
up there (pointing to an immense height), and came 
down of their own accord in autumn. We heard a 
constant gingle, gingle, of the bells worn by cows and 
horses. 

Parted with our good landlady well satisfied. Her 
bill for one day and a half was twenty-two francs. 
Living was dearer, in general, than in most parts of 
Germany. We paid more for our washing than in 
Baden-Baden at the fashionable season. 

We next sailed over the Lake of Thun, on our way 
to Berne. Met the young Italian and his wife, whom 
we had seen in Lucerne. Our conversation turned 
upon hotels, and he kept us laughing by his comical 
descriptions. He said the Alps Hotel in Interlacken 
was splendid, with poor fare and good prices; eggs 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 139 

not fresh ; strawberries powdered with flower instead 
of being sugared. He thought that the landlord, in 
his fear that rich milk should hurt his guests, put too 
much water in it. We had no such complaints to 
make, for we had had no adulterated food in our 
hotel. 

September Vlth. At the Hotel de L'Europe, in 
Berne, we were so happy as to find a party perfectly 
satisfied with themselves and all about them. In our 
walks we saw men treading a wheel to move a 
machine ; others sawing stones ; a woman sawing 
wood in the street; small children at work, as in Ger- 
many. Looking down at the bears, which are in 
strong enclosures some feet below the street, we 
thought them quite tame, as they made compliments 
and played tricks for the bits of bread and sugar 
which were thrown them. A gentleman told us that 
an Englishman made a bet that he could go down to 
them, and return uninjured. He tried it in the night, 
and fell from the iron railing which surrounds the top 
of the enclosure. The male bear took him up and put 
him into the water. The companion of the English- 
man was frightened, and began to scream and throw 
stones, upon which the female bear came out from her 
resting-place. The companion then ran through the 
streets screaming in English. The police at first took 
him for a crazy man. When he finally made himself 



140 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

understood, it was too late : his friend was killed. 
Our informant thought that the man would have 
escaped unhurt if his companion had either kept quiet 
or sought the bear's. keeper, who lived near by. 

Most of the stores, behind heavy stone colonnades, 
looked dark and gloomy. In the afternoon* the street 
in front of our hotel was thronged with people to see 
the Chinese Embassy, which dined there. 

The brother of the Tycoon, Emperor of Japan, a lad 
of fourteen years, had on a yellow silk dress and white 
shoes ; the rest were dressed in black. Some of them 
spoke English, and some French, very well. When 
they drove off, about nine o'clock, the crowd dispersed, 
and their noise was succeeded by singing, followed by 
fighting, or some other street row ; so that we saw a 
mass of the populace from our windows on the first 
evening of our arrival. Besides the French and Ger- 
man printed against the knob of our bell, was the 
word Tush, probably intended for " touch," which the 
waiter declared to be (/ood English. 

We left the hotel in a hurry. The bill for dinner, 
breakfast, and lodging, amounted to more than twenty- 
two francs, and was i)aid at the last moment. After- 
wards we found that we had paid for a ride which we 
did not have, and for candles which we did not use. 
A few such experiences taught us to have our bill in 
season, that we might look it over. 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 141 

Berne, capital of the largest of the Swiss cantons, 
is built on a lofty promontory. Its great charm is the 
view of the Bernese Alps. 

September I'ith. Why we went to Hotel du Nord, 
in Lausanne, was more than we could tell, for there 
was nothing inviting about it. Blocked up by houses, 
on, a rather narrow street, we had no prospect from 
our windows : besides its being on the hill-side, and 
difficult of access, the town stands on the slope of 
a hill. 

They charged us exorbitantly for poor accommoda- 
tions and food of middling quality. Our bill for two 
nights and one day was thirty-four francs. We seemed 
to be faring worse the farther we went. 

The variety and quantity of cheese in the market 
of Lausanne were immense. There was also plenty 
of nice-looking fish and frogs' legs ; and tomatoes, 
squashes, melons, with other fruits. We went to Yevay 
and Chillon; took our dinner at a restaurant in the 
latter place ; paid five cents for a j^int of wine, and 
forty cents for soup, roast beef, salad, and bread — all 
good, and in abundance. Vevay is a charming place, 
far pi-eferable to Lausanne. Met acquaintances at Hotel 
Belvedere, in Lausanne, and were well satisfied with 
prices and accommodations. There are many schools 
of high standing. No theatre. Lausanne and Geneva 
are strictly Calvinistic. 



142 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUEORB. 

September Vbth. — Geneva. Do not laugh, reader 
of our travels, when we tell you that we were delighted 
to find large pitchers of water, a pail, and hair-pillows 
in our sleeping-room ; for, to tell the truth, a pail and 
hair-pillows had almost become objects of curiosity. 
They had two dinners at Hotel de la Poste. We took 
ours at quarter past twelve. Had seven courses, with des- 
sert and wine, for which they charged three francs each. 

The chimney tops have a singular appearance in the 
distance. They look like so many deer's horns. 

We walked by the Rhone, which was dashing, 
splashing, and foaming its blue waters. 

The city of Geneva is handsome; houses mostly of a 
grayish stone-color. Its environs and the charming 
scenery of the lake render it a place of great attraction. 

Called upon Mr. Malignon, whose watch factory is 
the oldest in the city. Showed him our silver watch, 
which he recognized immediately as one of his own 
make, and, strange to say, he set a higher price upon it 
than we paid for it some fifteen years ago in Boston. 
Stood upon Mont Blanc Bridge, waiting for Mont 
Blanc to draw aside the thick veil with which he had 
covered his head ; but he obstinately refused us even 
one glimpse of his face. Opposite the hotel was a 
public school. The boys were uniformly dressed in 
light-blue blouse, girdled about the waist. We 
watched them at play, but could not see that they 
had different sports from our own children. 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 143 

Our hotel bill in Geneva was moderate, and our 
accommodations excellent. 

From Geneva we set out for Lyons. Entered a 
second-class car in company with a sickly old gentle- 
man, his servant, and a newly-married couple. They 
kept up a brisk conversation about hotels, landlords, 
and prices. The old gentleman, a Strasburger, had 
been shamefully hoaxed out of his money. The young 
couple (French) said that the preceding summer they 
were at a hotel in Lucerne, where they were well 
treated, and charged a fair price. This summer they 
went to the same hotel. The house was full, and the 
landlord could give them only an upper room, and 
that at double the price they previously paid for a 
lower one. Being much fatigued, they consented to 
go up ; but, finding it impossible to get their trunk into 
their small chamber, they went to the landlord to ask 
if he could not make some better arrangement for 
them ; upon which he very ostentatiously called a 
servant, and ordered him to put their trunk into the 
street, as they were not satisfied. 'The servant did so, 
and the lady was forced to stand in the street, beside 
her trunk, until her husband found other quarters. At 
a frontier town we were obliged to get out of the car 
— bag and baggage to be examined. What fuss and 
confusion there were! — the rain pouring, men scream- 
ing, people crowding and running. An officer seized 



144 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

one of our bags to see if it was marked, but took no 
notice of a small trunk which I had in my hand. 
Another demanded passports ; but when we said' 
''Americans," he replied, "Passez s'il vous 2:)lait." 
The farce lasted about twenty minutes. 

The Rhone presents an interesting feature, as it 
winds along, wearing its way through rocks, and 
making deep, wild, and picturesque chasms. We had 
a fuss at the depot in Lyons about an omnibus ; so we 
took a carriage with our old gentleman companion, and 
drove to Hotel de FEurope. Carriage hire, one and a 
half francs for the three. Dined at six o'clock ; com- 
pany large ; dinner good ; price in proportion. 

September \%th. Went into several stores before 
we found thin envelopes, although all we bought in 
Germany were made in Paris. Bought a few things 
of a confectioner at very high prices ; had a feeling that 
the woman with whom we traded was charging more 
to the stranger, although she did it very politely. The 
streets and stores in Lyons put one in mind of Broad- 
way, New York. In all the streets were soldiers^ 
priests, and Sisters of Charity. There are many open 
squares, with flowers, fountains, and seats, which 
nurses and children find agreeable. Opposite my 
windows was a bridge, under which small steamers 
were constantly plying up and down the river. A 
man did our chamber-work. lie interested me far 
less than the pretty Swiss girl. 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 145 

We saw in the market-places squashes, melons, pump- 
kins, and pomegranates ; also heaps of buckwheat, which 
was raised for cattle and geese. Lyons is a desirable 
city to live in, except that everything is very expensive. 
They told us it was more expensive there than in Paris. 

Lyons, the second city of France, is the chief seat 
of manufactures. The picture gallery contains several 
paintings of celebrated masters. In going from Lyons 
to Dijon, we met a party of American acquaintances, 
and, as we had the coupe to ourselves, we had quite a 
sociable time. Of course our conversation turned upon 
home and mutual friends. They had been absent but 
a short time, and could give us much information. 

The country offered no agreeable sights, if we ex- 
cej^t the fields of pumpkins and squashes, which I 
hailed as my country friends. The Hotel du Jura, 
being near the depot, served our purpose for the time 
being. At the dinner table a jolly old German told 
funny stories, about his experiences in America, which 
caused much laughter. The hotel was small, and pret- 
ty well filled, mostly w4th English people. We were 
forced to mount a narrow staircase to a room at the 
top of the house, where we had nice beds, fine linen 
sheets, white as snow, with a superabundance of fleas 
and bedbugs. 

Dijon is an old city, containing several handsome 
residences, and a museum, in which is a good collection 
10 



146 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

of paintings and sculpture. But what pleased us the 
most was the architecture of an old church, into which 
we walked ; and, looking about, we saw piles of old- 
fashioned, straight-backed, straw-bottomed chairs, with 
"the owner's name written on the top. We noticed 
that they were mostly marked Mad.^ and not il£. So- 
and-so, thereby showing to which sex the majority 
of church-goers in that old city belonged. We wished 
to purchase stereoscopic views of the church, but were 
told that none had been taken, which we took the liber- 
ty to disbelieve in our own hearts, particularly as the 
shopkeeper tried to get us to take things which we 
neither asked for nor desired. We bous^ht luscious 
great pears at three cents each, and fine grapes at 
six cents per pound. 

September 2^th. We rose at four, and were oflT at 
six. In the cars were a Frenchman, wife, and two 
sons. They took their breakfast of red wine, bread, 
and chocolate paste in the car, and the woman sewed 
with as much ease, apparently, as if she had been sit- 
ting quietly in her room at home. I wished I could 
have done the same, for the ride was very tiresome, 
nothing particularly interesting to be seen until near 
Fontainebleau. The sky had looked threatening, and 
now and then sent a few rainy messengers, in the form 
of drops, to inform us that there were plenty more 
where they came from. 



AN" AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 147 

Arrived in Paris, it commenced raining in earnest ; 
it took a full hour to drive from the depot to the Pen- 
sion, to which we had written to secure rooms. When 
we got thei'e, Madame informed us tliat all her rooms 
were full, and that if we w^ould go to a hotel, she would 
be ready to receive us on the morrow. She recom- 
mended one of her friends, but such manoeuvring did 
not suit our American blood ; sp we drove off, in the 
pouring rain, to a hotel where we had been before — 
the Hotel de Baviere. It was crammed full ; but the 
proprietor informed us that he had another house, 
Boulevard St. Denis, corner of Sebastapole ; and thith- 
er we went, after quieting the coachman by promise 
of double fare. We did not wonder that he grum- 
bled, for it rained as hard as it could pour. Once 
sheltered from the rain, and very hungry, it was 
rather unpleasant to be told that we must get our 
supper out of the house, as they furnished breakfast 
only. We entered our chamber — second ^tory — 
through the breakfast-room; had furniture and beds 
good enough, nothing extra. Next morning, on in- 
quiring prices, we found that we should be obliged to 
pay fifteen francs per day for the room alone; so we 
set off to find better and cheaper quarters. 

Hotel Richer was favorably mentioned, and, being 
conveniently situated (corner Rue Faubourg Mont- 
martre), we resolved to try it. Took our dinner at an 



148 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUEOrE. 

"Etablissement de Bouillon." The proprietor (Duval) 
has sixteen etablissements in different parts of the city, 
and is doing a splendid business. Girls and women, 
in pretty white caps, tied under the chin, white sleeves, 
and white aprons, wait upon the tables. They receive 
no other compensation than the coppers given by cus- 
tomers; and besides, they are obliged to p.ay thirty 
francs per month, each, to cover the expense of what- 
ever is broken ; but if each customer leaves two sous 
on the table for the girl who waits upon him, she does 
good business, as people are continually going and 
coming. 

On entering, a paper, upon which are printed the 
articles of food, with their prices, is handed you: you 
make your selection, are promptly waited upon, pay 
at a counter, where women add your account with 
lightning speed, return the paper to the man at the 
door, and go away feeling that you have had that meal, 
at least, for a moderate price. 

At Hotel Richer we mounted three flights of stairs ; 
they called it two. In one small room were a mirror, 
nearly large enough to cover one side of it, one bed, 
sofa, commode, chairs, and heavy red curtains, filled 
with dust. I had heard that the French people, in 
general, were careless and untidy; but I never con- 
ceived of such dirty people as the conductors of this 
hotel were. The young man who did the chamber- 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 149 

work whisked round the middle of the old, dirty 
carpet, gave one or two flourishes with a feather- 
duster, and went his away. I complained of bedbugs 
to the old lady who made our coffee, and she very 
politely informed me that they were not bedbugs, only 
the little creatures which crawled about in summer 
time, and which ladies mistook for bedbugs; she 
shrugged her shoulders, saying, she could not endure 
anything so dirty. All that was clean about her was 
her snow-white cap. Add to the discomforts of our 
living the impossibilty of sleeping, on account of the 
continued noises through the night, among which were 
the tinkling of little bells and the trampling of the 
small feet of the asses carrying things to market long 
before daybreak, and it is no wonder that we made 
a short stay there. Charges extravagant ; coffee the 
same as in an elegant coffee-house: service dear, and 
nothing done; and yet the house was full. 

We met with the French lady who was at the 
Schutzenhof with us in Cronberg. She had married 
again, and two children, twins, took the place of 
Helena, the departed. 

September 22c7. Stores open, carriages and omni- 
buses on the run, policemen leading away people 
who were fighting in the street, children shouting 
and hallooing, this Sunday forenoon, when not even 
the sound of a church bell could be heard where we 
were for the intolerable noise. 



150 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

Went to the Louvre, Tuilleries, new market, &c. 
We observed that at the approach of a funeral pro- 
cession every man and boy took off his hat. Would 
that our people at home would at least slacken their 
pace on such an occasion ! 

We were more at our ease at a Hotel Garni, rue St. 
Jacque. The son of our hostess thought he could 
speak English, and addressed an Englishman at table 
thus : " Will you bif roast, patate ? O, will you cotelet, 
or pig ? " The gentleman laughed, and told him 
" pig?" fc)i* the fun of it. He brought him a j^ork 
steak. 

At the Luxemburg Palace we were hurried or driven 
from room to room like a flock of sheep, the guide 
giving his explanation rapidly, as a tired child repeats 
its Catechism. 

September 2Qth. Our first visit to the Exposition. 
Saw the American who had a restaurant there. He 
complained bitterly ; said the Exposition was a losing 
business to Frenchmen as well as Others; he should 
lose nearly all he was worth in the sj^eculation, which 
had cost him a full year's time, in addition to his money. 

SeiJtemher IWi. Sunday again, and not a thing to 
remind one of the day. One heard men and women 
crying their wares in the street, the cracking of whips, 
and the rushing of people. The domestics in the hotel 
were cleaning, as they do in Germany on Saturday. 



. AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 151 

The entrance and yard were quite under water; they 
have such an odd way of pouring on abundance of 
water, as if that would make all clean without scrub- 
bing ! How often I longed to show them how to use a 
brush and a cloth! 

We took a steamer for St. Cloud at an early hour ; 
had a pleasant sail. Among the handsome bridges, 
we much admired that constructed for the Exposition. 
It is very wide; the centre is for pedestrians; on 
either side a fine carriage-road ; over and above is a 
railroad, and boa,ts sail beneath: 

St. Cloud is a small place, but much visited. It was 
the last of the fair days, the same as we had already 
seen, only on a larger scale. We walked through the 
booths, and then to the palace. Were well paid for 
our trouble by the ^ight of the superb Gobelin tapes- 
try, antique vases, &c. 

Not far from the palace are fine, large water-works, 
where the water flows down over steps and rocks, and 
is spouted from the mouths of statues : once in three 
years it is shown ofiT by electric light. This was the 
night, and thousands of people came, late in the after- 
noon, to see it. There were six or eight carousals, a 
Russian balance, a great number of swings, a thea- 
tre, a circus, a show of animal performers, lotteries, 
pistol shooting, fortune telling, auctions, mesmerism, 
and all sorts of tricks and games. All this on Sunday, 



152 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUKOPE. 

and we neither heard nor saw anything which could 
remind one of church, if we may except a number 
of priests at the fair, who were walking about with 
women and children, and looking as if enjoying them- 
selves. In Paris the priests were as plenty as soldiers. 

Although glad of the opportunity of seeing all that 
we saw, we were soon heartily sick of Paris, and 
would gladly have left it. Exposition and all; but we 
were there, and so we made the best of it. 

At the Hotel des Invalides, we first looked at Na- 
poleon's tomb from above, just as we looked down 
upon the bears in Berne ; here, a dead animal, thought 
I, in a splendid catafalque, which cost money enough 
to raise several poor families from degradation and 
want ; and there, the live animals, innocent of bloody 
deeds, compared to him. His battles are written in 
marble about his tomb. Are they to his praise or 
censure ? 

The invalids looked very comfortable and well sat- 
isfied. In the kitchen were huge kettles of good 
looking and smelling soup. At seeing the ofiicers' 
dining-room more comfortable and inviting than that 
of the common soldiers, we marvelled at the distinc- 
tion, but were told that the former paid for what they 
had out of their pensions. They said that there were 
many thousand occupants of the large buildings. To 
Louis XIV. is due the honor which these buildings 
reflect on their founder. 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUKOPE. 153 

On our way back to our hotel, we looked into the 
Palais du Corps Legislatif; the Hall of the Leg- 
islature is very handsome. -In one of the roon:is — 
Salle du Trone — is the imperial chair of Napoleon I. 
It is said that no one has ever presumed to sit in his 
seat. 

October \8t. We resolved to go to another part 
of the city, that we might not only improve our 
condition, but more easily " do it up," as the Amer- 
ican travellers say. We were tired of seeing loaves 
of bread five or six feet long, and looking like 
great walking-sticks. Up to this time, we had not 
found the French bread good ; it could not at all 
be compared to that of Germany ; neither were the 
soups as good; and then, the lack of cleanliness. 
Our room appeared clean to a casual observer, but 
it would not do to look in the corners, and under 
the furniture. The man who played the part of 
chamber-maid, used to put a cloth under one foot, 
and rub the middle of the floor briskly, after having 
swept a stroke or two. We thought he made a cap- 
ital exercise of it. The floor was handsome, and just 
where he rubbed, it shone like glass. The room was 
on the second floor, and large, with windows on the 
street; window curtains, white muslin, under heavy 
maroon-colored drapery; mirror from mantel to ceil- 
ing; chairs, an arm-chair and sofa — all of red velvet; 



154 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 



a large writing-desk ; commode ; bronze ornaments 



and candelabras ; a handsome clock ; bedstead of 
mahogany under heavy drapery, like that at the 
windows; an excellent mattress and good sheets; a 
blanket, absolutely black with dirt, skilfully wrapped 
in the large upper sheet ; a wash-stand, with one 
small wash-basin, one bottle of water, one small 
vitcher, and four towels per week for both of us. 
We insisted upon having more water so vehemently, 
that our chamber-man brought us a large tin pitcher 
extra. There were water fixtures in the house, prob- 
ably for ornnament, as they shed no water; but this 
was Paris life in a remarkably clean hotel, where the 
middle of the floor shone like a mirror. In this house 
we met with a lad who worked hard all day as a 
waiter, and practised his violin the greater part of 
the night in the cellar. He had a natural gift for 
music, and played well, with very little instruction ; 
but his father allowed him neither time nor opportunity 
for study. 

After having seen the valuable and instructive 
collection of antiquities, &c., in the Hotel de Clu- 
ny; the Mint; Jardin des Plants, and Luxembourg, 
we drove out to Pore Lachaise ; and never was I 
more disappointed. I had read of it as the beautiful 
Perc Lachaise ; to me it appeared the gloomy, solemn 
city of the dead. A paved road and narrow side- 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 155 

walk (in front of the tombs, which look like so many 
small houses) lead through a part of the burial-ground. 
There are comparatively few very handsome tombs; 
we read the names of Beranger, Souvestre, Ney, Mas- 
sena, Constant, Ledru R-ollin, Balzac, and many others 
familiar to the reader of French history. The bronze 
statue of Casimir Perier, the greatest orator of France, 
stands in a circular plat of grass and flowers, and is 
surrounded by a road, shaded by lofty trees, behind 
which are tombs, tombs, tombs. As we sat on a 
bench under the trees, my thoughts turned to our 
bright and flowery Mount Auburn, Forest Hill, Green- 
wood, and I felt that they were by far pleasanter than 
this. In one part of the grounds are a number of 
graves, with black crosses, huddled together. 

Looking through the grating or glass at the doors of 
some of the house-like tombs, we saw in one a doll 
dressed in mourning; in another, wreaths and crosses; 
in one, a burning candle and a crucifix ; in another, a 
bead w^reath and a bunch of paper flowers. 

The French are very cruel to their horses. It is 
lash, lash, all the time, though most of them go upon 
the run. The omnibus regulations are excellent. A 
man calls out numbers in regular order. If you have the 
number he calls, you can enter ; if not, must await 
your turn in another omnibus. In this way every one 
is justly dealt by. There is no favoritism, no bribery. 



156 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

The strong man cannot hustle a youth aside ; neither 
can a finely-dressed lady take precedence of the market 
woman. 

A few cents' worth of bread and sausage given to a 
party of Savoyard children afforded as much pleasure 
to the giver as comfort to the children. It was touch- 
ing to see how justly the elder of them divided it. 
The Savoyards are said to be very faithful to each 
other, always sharing anything given them. Poor 
children ! they are often forced to subsist on a mere 
crust of bread, and sleep in the streets. One of them 
had a marmot, a pretty animal with a nice, gray fur, 
which he hugged closely to his bosom. 

October Q>th. Located at 91 Avenue des Ternes. 
We felt more at home than we had for a long time. 
The i^eople seemed as much disposed to try to suit 
us as we were disposed to be suited. It was pleasant 
to us to sit down to a family dinner, and we really 
enjoyed it, besides hearing pure French, instead of the 
mixture of dialects and languages which we had been 
hearing for several weeks past. 

The weather was very disagreeable, and so cool that 
we required fires. We had breakfast at eight ; luncheon 
of hot meats, vegetables, wines, and fruit at twelve ; 
dinner, plentiful and good, with wine and dessert at 
six ; tea and coffee at eight. Our room was large and 
pleasant J beds good; service faithful. For all this we 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 157 

paid forty francs each per week. Our host, Mr. S., was 
a very industrious, honest man. His wife, an excellent 
musician, gave lessons occasionally. Mme. Prestreau, 
an elderly widow, aunt of Mrs. S., was a charming 
old lady, full of French pohteness and French humor. 
She was well versed. in history, and her conversation 
was entertaining and instructive. We passed our 
evenings, when at home, with the family. 

One day we saw a young couple on the street, the 
man in black, with white kerchief and yellow gloves; 
the woman in white, bareheaded. She seemed much 
embarrassed about stepping in the mud with her white 
satin slippers. A gendarme, coming along, offered 
to take her on his shoulder, which she refused; where- 
upon he caught her up in his arms, and carried her 
along like an infant. " Saturday is the day for marry- 
ing in Paris," said Mme. P., " and we often see a bride 
in a similar predicament." 

If the Americans, who wish they had an emperor at 
home, because all goes on "so orderly and beautifully," 
took the trouble to look round among the people, and 
inquire into their social state, they would find that 
Paris is something less than a second heaven. The 
poor man, the artisan, the laborer, have few comforts, 
and many discomforts. We became acquainted with a 
Parisian family who were about moving. The gentle- 
man told us that he was tormented oij every side» 



158 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

Gouging, he said, was the order of the day. The con- 
cierge of" the new locality informed him that he could 
not take possession of the apartments which he had 
hired until he had given her forty francs. The con- 
cierge of the house he was about leaving demanded 
forty francs for the windows. He went to a lawyer, 
of whom he learned that, not having agreed to pay for 
the windows on entrance, she could not force him. 
The teamster demanded double the usual price. Al- 
though the gentleman was sore vexed and tried, he 
found some excuse for those who were trying to get all 
they could out of him, inasmuch as they themselves 
only retaliated upon others the injustice they suffered 
from the authorities. He told us of a law with regard 
to vehicles. Fiacres and public conveyances are subject 
to very strict rules, and the owners are licensed to 
keep them. If they go out of line and order, if any 
accident happens, as running into or injuring another 
vehicle, the owner is fined ; whereas the rich people 
and nobility pay no taxes, are subject to no rules, and 
can drive as and where they please, and do what they 
like. Scarcely any one would complain of, or think of 
asking them to pay a fine. Then, in regard to the 
octroi, he said that for every bottle of wine brought 
into the city they paid octroi, and which was the same 
for all without reference to quality; so that the poor 
man, who could only afford himself the cheapest wine, 



AN AMEEICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 159 

must pay the same tax upon it as the rich man paid for 
llis champagne and costly wines. He gave an example : 
the common wine, in the south of France, is two sous 
the bottle ; octroi, five sous. What a difierence this 
makes to the working classes! Is it a wonder that 
they complain, and are unhappy ? It may be said that 
they need no wine. What, then, shall they drink ? 
The water of the Seine cannot be drank without 
wine or a substitute. It is deleterious to health. He 
spoke with much feeling about the government. Said 
that the so-called beautifying of the city had another 
and more important object than to render Paris the 
handsomest city in the world, viz., the comj^lete sub- 
jection of the populace. In the old Paris, insurrec- 
tionists could fire from their houses upon the soldiery 
in the narrow streets. Not so in- the large, open 
spaces, and broad streets, in which troops enough can 
be placed to quell any attempts on the .part of the 
people. We asked if the soldiery would not side with 
the people. " ISTo doubt," he answered, " that many of 
them would, with all their hearts ; but they are forced 
to obey orders blindly, and often fight without know- 
ing for whom or for what." 

October 13fA. A New York, Fifth Avenue family, 
who had been living here in great style, keeping a 
carriage and liveryman, had gone home to America in 
disgust, because it cost them so much to live. 



160 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

We saw the housemaids fold towels and napkins 
while damp, and put them under a press, instead of 
ironing; they thought they looked better, and, "be- 
sides," said they, " the hot irons injure linen, and make 
it wear out quickly." 

October lUh. This day the funeral of Mr. Fould, ex- 
minister of finance and intimate friend of Napoleon, 
took place. The streets through which the procession 
was to pass were kept free fi'ora omnibuses and carriages, 
in consequence of which the side streets were crowded 
to a jam. Bent upon seeing what was to be seen, 
we entered a restaurant, up one flight, on the corner 
of one of the chief streets, and asked for something to 
eat, thus securing chairs and a window, from which to 
look down upon the multitude. Company after com- 
pany of infantry, artillery, cavalry, cannon, bands of 
music, — splendid carriages, imperial, state, ministers', 
mourning, &c., — showed the rank of the unconscious 
remains thus honored. 

A hard rain kept us at home the latter part of the 
day and evening. There was a child of three years in 
the house, which had an inordinate love of wine. She 
had been sickly, and the fond mother, thinking to 
strengthen her, allowed her to drink freely. We im- 
agined that the beautiful little creature was under the 
influence of wine, when she related stories and played 
the actress to the great amusement of the company ; 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 161 

but they declared that the wine had nothing to do 
with it ; that it was a natural gift ; in short, that she was 
a remarkable child. If so, she will be no common per- 
former should she live to grow up. 

The pictures in the Luxemburg gallery, mostly mod- 
ern, were badly placed in regard to light; some of 
them could scarcely be seen at all, which is much to be 
regretted. 

We were glad to see among the pictures of his- 
torians, poets, painters, &c., of France, many women. 
Woman goes hand in hand with man in this country. 
In the hotels women keep the books, or are at the head 
of the establishments ; in stores they have a full share 
of the business; in the railroad and brokers' offices 
they sit at the desk; in the markets they are the trad- 
ers ; they drive through the crowded streets with 
their large market wagons; they collect the linen to 
be washed, and wash it; they sweep the street dirt 
into shovels, which men hold to throw it into the cart : 
in their families, these women are exceedingly indus- 
trious and hard-working. Careless as they are, and 
crude in their ideas of cleanliness, they always have on 
a white cap, which is decidedly white. 

I can never forget the wretched object whom w^e 

saw in an omnibus — a young man, who (through 

fright and exposure in time of a freshet, where he lost 

his parents and sister) was in continual motion. It 

11 



162 AX AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

was impossible for him to keep still ; hands, legs, feet, 
fingers, muscles of the face were twitching. He said 
he had just come from a hospital, and was going to 
his relations. From time to time he inhaled, what we 
supposed to be ether, from a small vial. A gentleman 
put a piece of money into the poor fellow's trembling 
hand ; his example was immediately followed by a 
market-woman ; then one after another contributed, 
until all had given, except one elegantly-dressed French 
lady : she waited until the omnibus stopped ; then she 
got out when he did, and quietly slipped a piece of 
gold into his hand. "God bless her!" I exclaimed, in- 
wardly, not so much for the gift as for the manner in 
which it was given. Alas! how few people under- 
stand the tenfold value of a charity kindly and deli- 
cately bestowed ! 

October 11th. It seemed impossible to get through 
two days without rain, and the streets were continually 
muddy. The Paris mud has the peculiarity of sticking 
fast, and taking the color from garments. The market 
was on both sides of the street where we lived. There 
were low tables and benches, running along the edge 
of the sidewalks, and every namable article to be 
sold, from a puppy-dog to a broken tea-pot; vegeta- 
bles, ripe fruits, — among them strawberiies, — meats, 
cotton and woollen goods, books and stationery, jew- 
elry, tin, glass, and wooden ware, old pans, kettles, 



AN AMEEICAlSr WOMAN IN EUROPE. 163 

rags, rubbisl), and junk. A gentleman told us that 
when a healthy horse broke a limb, it was killed, 
dressed, and brought into market; he had eaten of it, 
and found it delicate. He said that he had known of 
cats being served for rabbits in the hotels. A flag in- 
dicated the bench where the horse-flesh was for sale. 
We saw it, and must say that it looked well. 

On our way to Versailles we noticed that the foliage, 
which was changing its lovely green for autumn dra- 
pery, was much handsomer than it is reported to be. 
There were beautiful shades of orange and yellow, 
mixed with pale-reds, browns, and greens, and their 
beauty was set off by the beds of endive and bright- 
green salad, and autumn flowers in the gardens. 

A French lady in the car was very enthusiastic 
about her beloved Paris, and talked and chatted wdth 
great ease and rapidity. 

At Versailles our first business was to replenish our 
inward lamp, that it might burn more brightly, for 
which purpose we went into a nice-looking confec- 
tioner's store, and bought to eat and drink ; but, the 
demon of curiosity tempting me to go out by a door 
opposite that to which I had entered, I found myself 
in the kitchen ; and I must declare that, of all dirty 
places, it beat anything I had yet seen. If I had 
entered the store through the kitchen, my appe- 
tite would have been satiated without food. Trav- 



164 AN AMERICAlSr WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

ellers eat more than one peck of dirt, without know- 
ing it. 

How pitiable the guards looked in the cold, uncomfort- 
able rooms of palaces ! What a wretched life for men 
to lead ! We took note of all the fine things we saw ; 
but, as they have been written over and over again, 
we will not speak of them here ; yet we did not find 
the gardens of Versailles so beautiful as one reads 
*about. The trees are trimmed to look as if they were 
no trees. All natural beauty is destroyed, and, al- 
though there are many handsome things to be seen, 
taken as a whole, the garden looks stiff and made up. 
As to Versailles itself, we take the liberty of saying 
that it is a very stujDid and dull place. 

Going home in a heavy rain, we did not envy the 
people sitting in the open third-class cars over our 
heads. 

Inquired the price of the large, ornamental mirrors, 
which we saw in every room. Were told that they 
were furnished by the owners of the houses; thus 
saving the trouble of carrying about when one 
moves. 

October 20^A. This Sunday was a great market day ; 
the people spread their wares and aired their goods. YTq 
were disturbed very early by the planing of stones on 
the new building next to us. It really seemed as if 
there was an unusual noise and confusion in the street. 



AN AMETIICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 165 

The walking very bad on account of the rain ; wind 
cold and disagreeable; ho\^ever, we were bound to 
go, and went, to the Conservatoire des Arts et Me- 
tiers, which contains a rich collection, finely arranged. 
Then to Notre Dame. It is very massive and grand. 
Stepped into two other churches. All are more or 
less elegant. With a sameness in the ornamentation, 
after a while one becomes tired of seeing churches. 

Some of the comparatively few old streets, which 
still remain in Paris, looked filthy, and the inhabitants 
poor and wretched enough. A friend told us that the. 
beautiful artificial flowers, for which Paris is famed, are 
mostly made by the poor people, and in the meanest 
and dirtiest places imaginable. 

Passed a church where a black cloth was festooned 
over the door for a funeral. People went in, some 
with their market baskets on the arm, took a small dip- 
per of holy water, threw it on the coffin, crossed them- 
selves, and went on their way. 

Wonder of wonders ! the good people did not object 
to giving us clean bed linen weekly — an unheard-of 
arrangement on their part. The chamber-maid, how- 
ever, expressed her anxiety about wearing out the 
linen with so much washing. 

Spent several hours very agreeably, in the Jardin 
d'Acclimatation, with the birds and other animals, 
which have fine large enclosures, with trees and grass, 



f 

166 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUKOPE. 

and an abundance of food and fresh water. There are 
grottos, fountains, temples, seats, promenades, and 
flower-beds, all beautifully arranged. No expense is 
spared ujDon the garden-; and the foreign animals 
there have a much nicer home, and are better fed, 
than many of the poor inhabitants of the city. 

There was a bridal party in the garden, tlie bride 
with white satin sHppers, on the damp, cool ground, 
and a wreath of orange flowers on her uncovered 
head. 

Called upon an old lady, who was shivering under 
a thick shawl ; and, having her feet on a foot-stove, she 
spoke of the pleasant weather ; said she thought it too 
warm to have a fire. Verily, thought we, the French 
are not the only inconsistent people in the world. 

October 2bth. Heard that there was to be a show 
of nobihty and soldiers. Took chairs, at one franc 
each, in the Avenue de I'Imperatrice. Presently sol- 
diers and civilians came scattering along, and, after a 
while, the Emperor of Austria and brother, follow^ed 
by people of distinction in fine veliicles. Prince Na- 
poleon and wife, and hordes of soldiers. Some old 
Avagons filled with country people, and drawn by 
shabby-looking horses with postilions, caused much 
merriment in the crowd. The English boys of our 
house, boy-like, boasted of having forced their way 
into the emperor's pavilion ; of having sat in the 



AN AMEIilCAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 167 

cliair of the empress. " She looked real pretty in her 
green silk dress," said one little fellow, his eyes spar- 
kling with delight at his achievement. The twelve- 
year-old Napoleon was dressed in uniform, and com- 
manded his company of lads, who took their part 
in the review. The Queen of Holland was also 
present. 

October ^Ith. We went, for the third time, to the 
Exposition. It was about three in the afternoon, and 
there had ah-eady been between eighty and ninety 
thousand people there. It was said that free tickets 
had been sent to several factories, to be distributed 
among the operatives, many of whom were present. 
We noticed some with a sprig of geranium and white 
ribbon pinned to their blue frocks; others w4th col- 
ored ribbons. Taking the liberty of Yankees, we 
guessed it to be the distinctive badge of their factory. 

The children of the poorer classes wore long-sleeved 
pinafores of black cambric, and were generally bare- 
headed. Their mothers, perhaps, had the same idea 
as the bride, who, selecting crockery, said, she should 
prefer it dark, to save washing. 

But for the Exposition : an acquaintance, who offi- 
ciated there, undertook to show us what everybody 
did not see ; viz., slabs of black marble, wdth very 
beautiful porcelain flowers inlaid — he said it was the 
invention of a gentleman deceased, and the process is 



168 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

buried with Iiim ; a watch, every part except the 
spring made of glass ; a beautiful Bible, with Dore's 
illustrations, in a binding which brought up the ex- 
pense to twelve thousand francs. We paid for our 
desire to see the mass of working people by getting 
into a terrible crowd, and were more tired, if possible, 
than on our former visits. The Austrian bakery was 
the chief attraction, almost every person wishing to 
get a taste of the delicious bread, which they baked 
unremittingly, so great was the demand. 

The weather was very disagreeable — cool and 
rainy, with a piercing wind. 

It was said that when the empress and her son 
went to the Exposition, the country people, w^ho 
wished to see them, were kej^t back by the police. 
So the poor may not even look upon the nobles who 
reign over them, even when within sight! France 
is a great country, Paris a great city, and the em- 
peror a great man, according to some people's way of 
thinking. 

The royal cats deserve notice. Some three or four 
years ago, the rats, taking a literary turn, made too 
free with the books of the Imperial Library, and an 
army of cats was provided to repel their attacks ; said 
cats — two hundred in number — remarkable for their 
beauty of person and skill in warfare, are bamcaded 
in rooms of the Library, and have free accesw t^ the 



AN AMEEICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 169 

books. It is said that tbeir august ap^^earance has 
so dismayed the rats, that they have lost their love 
of books, and decline further research among them. 

Received a bunch of violets from the garden of 
Alphonse Karr, the well-known author, who, they 
say, cultivates them extensively near ISTice. 

JVovember 1st. All Saints' Day. Madame P. told 
us that the Madelaine, in Paris, is built after the style 
of the maison carree at E'imes. Louis XIY. sent 
an architect to see if that could be brought to Paris ; 
the architect said that to move one stone would ruin 
the building ; whereupon the king gave him commis- 
sion to build one in Paris as near like it as possible. 

The music in the church of St. Eustache was equal to 
a fine concert. The boys' voices were very pleasant and 
clear ; priests in full dress, some in red and gold, some 
in red and white, some in black and white, and others in 
black. Their lips moved, and they bowed and crossed 
themselves, but there was no devotion in their manner. 
There were few worshippers in that large concourse 
of people, except the poor old women, whose shriv- 
elled hands trembled w^ith the weight of the prayer- 
books which they so faithfully studied. 

We were surprised to see not the slightest demon- 
stration, not even a bow, or waving the hat, to the 
Emperor of Austria, as he rode through the Bois de 
Boulogne on his way to St. Cloud. Carnages passed 



170 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

by liundreds; from the elegant and fashionable, with 
fast horses and rich trappings, down to the" common 
fiacre, drawn by a poor, bony animal scarce able to 
drag his legs. The English, Americans, and ambas- 
sadors made much show; among the latter, the Jap- 
anese, in citizens' dress, attracted the most attention. 
At times the broad roads were blocked with carriages, 
four abreast, and officei*s continually moving among 
them to keep them in line and order. We saw the 
forest-guard, who resembles Napoleon so closely that he 
is often taken for him ; there is no doubt that he is 
of the family. They say that the emperor sends this, 
his counterpart, as his representative, when he is sick, 
and deems it necessary to be seen by the people. 
How true it is, we know not. 

The French (that is, those of Paris) seemed to fear 
war or some other calamity. It was easy to perceive 
that the emperor had no great hold on the affections 
of his people. " He rules us with a rod of iron," said 
a poor man, in our hearing ; " and he means to keep 
us under." " It is a melancholy fact," said a woman, 
"that France is in such a condition tliat Frenchmen 
are ready to tear the bread from eacli other's mouths." 

November \th. After a very pleasant evening with 
the family, we paid our bills, and took leave, intending 
to start soon after five next morning. What, then, 
was our surprise to find a nice breakfast ready, and 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 171 

tlie family up at that early hour to see us otF! And 
not only did they get breakfast, but good Mrs. S. put 
up a nice luncheon, and gave us a book to read on 
the way. Indeed, if we had been of their own family, 
they could not have treated us with greater kindness: 
we fully appreciated it, and took leave, especially of 
Madame P., whom we could never expect to see again, 
with a sad heart. The morning was foggy and cold, 
and we had a dismal ride for a while : very little to 
be seen on the way, except fine bridges, small 
streams, trees covered with ivy, and trees having a 
few" leaves on their tops like a dainty cap, poplars 
straight, tall, and stiff, in great abundance. A girl, 
dressed in ordinary dark calico, with a wreath of 
orange flowers and white ribbons on her head, got 
out of the cars to join a village party, headed by a 
boy, who stood at the depot, waving a long pole, on 
the end of which were ribbons and flowers. The 
knowing ones said it was the celebration of a wed- 
ding. Arrived at Nancy, the conductor went with us 
to a hotel near the depot. We were favorably im- 
pressed by what w^e saw of the town. An American 
lady, who arrived when we did, rang for the chamber- 
maid to ask her (in bad French) if they had any 
bed-bugs. How we laughed ! We could not help it. 
Our room was nice, and beds good. 

Started at eicfht next forenoon for Kehl; liad a fine 



172 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUKOPB. 

view of the Vosges Mountains, with a constant variety 
of charming scenery. Saw flocks of sheep, fine cattle, 
beautiful pastures, neat fields, abundance of white 
turnips; women and girls, sitting on the cold, damp 
ground, cutting off the green tops, and men carrying 
them away by the cart-load. An American of our 
company found everything which looked neat or 
pretty to resemble America. Quite j^atriotic! By 
the by, he complained bitterly of having been shaved 
by his boarding-house keepers in Paris, and of having 
paid great prices for all he bought. He wound up his 
lamentations with this motto: "Hope for the best, 
prepare for the worst, and then take what comes;" 
which, judging from the style of the individual, was 
not origjinal. 

At Kehl I started to go out of the room in which 
our things were being examined, and was stopped by a 
functionary of the law. Afterwards, as I was standing 
by my budgets outside, said persecutor ordered me to 
move ; " 'twas not allowed to stand in a passage- 
way." 

We got into a car with five women, who had served 
at the Exposition, and were on their way home rejoi- 
cing. They objected to our entering; said '-'•that car 
was for ladies only." However, the conductor told us 
to get in, and in we went. One of the women had a 
very young kitten under her shawl. It belonged to 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 173 

the imperial ca,t family, had been born at the Exposi- 
tion, and she was going to carry it to her home in 
Vienne. There was an intolerable smell in the car, 
which I was disposed to attribute to the dirty-looking 
kitten ; but my wiser half silenced any observation on 
my part with the ejaculation, " Cheese ! " (in English), 
I could not think what he meant, more especially as 
he talked with the women and petted the kitten, not 
seeming to mind a smell which was making me sick. 
However, we embraced the first opportunity to leave 
these highly-perfumed ladies and take another car, 
when the mystery was explained, viz., the women had 
Limburger cheese tied up in their bundles. Probably 
their meals from Paris to Vienne WQuld consist princi- 
pally of bread and cheese. They were right to want 
the car to themselves ; for said cheese, though pleasant 
to the palate, is most disagreeable to the nostrils. 

Arrived at Carlsruhe at half past four. Put up at 
Hotel Grosse. The next forenoon was spent in going 
to the fair, taking another look at the palace garden, 
where we had had so many charming walks, and in 
calling upon old acquaintances; after which we went 
to Stutgard. One is never tired in admiring the new 
depot there, said to be the handsomest in Europe. 

We met with a lady at the Hotel Hirsch who was 
very talkative, and full of mirnickry and gossip. She 
was acquainted with some New York and Philadelphia 



174 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

families, of whom she couhl give the entire history. 
Speaking of a mutual acquaintance, she said, " O, yes, 
she is graceful and easy in her manners, though, to be 
sure, she must have acquired them at a boarding-house 
table, and in an omnibus." Her pictures of high life 
were frightful. Said lady had a perfect mania for bell- 
ringing, and kept the waiters on the run. No doubt 
the landlord made her pay for it. 

Not finding rooms in a private house in the city, we 
went to Canstadt, about five minutes by steam cars 
from Stutgard, where we engaged rooms in a Hotel 
Garni at a moderate price. They gave us something 
diflferent every day for dinner, but always in abun- 
dance, well cooked, and of good quality. 

The first opera we heard in Stutgard was "La Dame 
Blanche." The tenor, a fine singer, ?iad been on the 
stage twenty-five years. It is said that in his youth he 
was a rag-picker, singing about the streets. Some 
gentlemen, charmed by his fine voice, educated him 
for the stage. 

The King and Queen of Wurtemburg were present 
at the opera — he in uniform, she simply and prettily 
dressed. He was much interested in the music, beat- 
ing time continually. The operas were so fine and the 
prices so cheap (ranging from twenty to sixty cents), 
that we determined to go often ; usually took the 
thirty-two or forty cent jDlace, where we could both 



AN" AMEEICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 175 

see and hear well. The king and queen were constant 
in their attendance. 

Hearing of an entertainment which was to be 
given at six kreutzers the ticket, we secured reserved 
seats, expecting that the hall would be filled with 
Avorkinen and servant girls, the former smoking. 
However, neither was the hall full nor the smoke so 
dense as to choke us. One man, a ventriloquist and 
prestidigitator, did his. part well. Another played on 
the zither, and played with much taste and feeling. 
Those who had some conscience about them gave the 
pale-faced musician something extra for his trouble. 
It was really a nice entertainment, and for six kreut- 
zers (four .cents). Think of that, ye seekers of some- 
thing to while away your time! 

November 1\st. Going down to dinner, we saw the 
tables dressed for a wedding party. Went to the 
church to see the ceremony. The party was large, 
including five bridesmaids and five grooms, some of 
the former dressed in white, with white wreaths, 
while the bride herself was neatly dressed in black 
silk, with a wreath of orange flowers in her pretty 
hair, and a large bouquet in her hand. The service 
(Calvinistic) was long and tiresome. The clergyman 
handed the bridegroom a Bible, which we supposed to 
be a present until he took it away again. The con- 
tribution box was passed around, and the bridal party 



176 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

gave generously, although they were only artisans, &c. 
They all — sixty in number — came to our hotel ; the 
women bareheaded, and in slippers, through the mud 
and in the cold, snowy air. The host told us that 
each person paid his own fare, to prevent the newly- 
married locksmith spending too much money. We 
were invited down to see the dancing, and were much 
pleased. They danced well, and with good will. Al- 
together it was a lively, jolly party. Some of the 
girls were quite pretty. For music they had piano, 
violin, and bass viol. Long after midnight we heard 
them going out into the damp night air to cool off 
between the dances. 

November 22d Again we packed up and took a 
start, Munich being the place of our destination for 
the time being. Our travelling companions were a 
physician and wife from Berlin, and a couple whom I 
took to be Irish. They all came from Paris, the former 
bound for Munich, the latter for Vienna, to which 
l^lace the man had been called by a telegraphic de- 
spatch. He said, very emphatically, that he must be in 
Vienna on the morrow, for the court could do nothing 
without him ; he should get no rest, for he must dress 
immediately on his arrival to see visitors, &c., all of 
which did not in the least correspond with his shabby 
appearance and style of conversation. The wind howled, 
it snowed fast, cars very cold, without even the 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUKOPE. 177 

heaters for the feet, and they went on slowly. Some 
time before getting to Augsburg we heard an extra 
whistling, an alarm, and were told that we barely 
escaped running into a freight train, at which the wife 
of the consequential set up a sort of Irish wail. Every 
now and then she broke out into a sort of repentance 
for coming. " Didn't I tell you something would hap- 
pen ! I knew it would. We shall never live to get 
there ! I know we shan't." To which her other half 
mildly responded, "But I had to, you know. I 
couldn't help it." 

At Munich we left them to pursue their journey 
through the long, cold night, and quartered ourselves 
at the Marienbad Hotel, which had been the abode of 
some of our American friends while in the city. 
Engaged two rather small rooms on the first floor, 
with board, for one dollar per day each. 

Went to the Pinakothek. Could not enjoy seeing 
the pictures, the rooms were so cold ; were told that 
they never had fires there. The old king, of Lola 
Montez renown, figures much in the galleries of paint- 
ings. His son, King Maximilian, who was a good man 
and much beloved, is thought to have been poisoned. 

P. M. Rode out to see the Bavaria — a bronze statue 

of a woman, fifty feet high. Some of us went up the 

winding stairs into her head, where are seats for six 

persons. Behind the statue is a sort of arcade, called 

12 



178 AN AMEraCAN AVOMAN IN EUROPE. 

the Hall of Renown, where are basts of distinguished 
characters. Fi-om thence we w'ent to tlie burial- 
ground, and then into the Auer Church. After sup- 
per Ave went to the People's Theatre; comic opera 
(Blue Beard), with superb costume. Went to bed 
very tired after such a hard day's work. Was almost 
suffocated by the smell of tobacco, the maid having for- 
gotten to air the room, which was thoroughly impreg- 
nated by the cigarettes of the preceding occupant. 

JSfovemher '\L\tli. Sunday. We went to St. Mi- 
chael's Church to hear the military band. I thought 
at the time that nothing in the way of music could 
be more soul-inspiring. In the evening went to hear 
the opera of Lalla Rookh. The singing was pleasant ; 
scenery superb. 

Next day went to see the church where the royal 
family are buried; noticed a black Madonna and 
Child. Her drapeiy is white : singular but happy idea, 
which makes Christ belong to the negro as well as the 
white race. 

Tlie royal chapel is small but very splendid in its dif- 
ferent colored marbles, pictures, and gold. It has been 
called the "Golden Chapel." We saw various and 
beautiful things and places in the course of the day ; 
but that which pleased us most was the "Winter 
Garden," in the third story of the palace — a charming 
spot, the favorite place of study of the former king, 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 179 

afterwards used as a dining-saloon when the queen 
had company. We sat there a long time admiring the 
j3owers, fountains, birds, and gold and silver fish in the 
little ponds. So princes can have a garden even up 
stairs. If they enjoy it every day as much as we did, it 
will do them good. 

In one of the rooms of the old palace is a bed under 
red velvet tapestry, embroidered with gold. The 
guide told us that the embroidery occupied forty 
persons ten years, and cost eight hundred thousand 
florins. He said there was nothing in the East more 
magnificent of its kind. The gallery of beauties 
pleased us. We considered the shoemaker's and the 
tailor's daughters the most beautiful of them all. The 
dancing-hall is lighted by over nine hundred wax can- 
dles. There are fine fresco paintings of the Nibelun- 
gen, and the whole is costly and magnificent, differing 
considerably from other palaces which we had seen. 

During our stay in Munich, we visited the Basilika, 
the Glyptothek, the National Museum, &c. 

Munich offers many attractions to the stranger. It 
abounds in fine buildings and works of art. The liv- 
ing is very cheap there ; but its climate is bad, and one 
feels obliged to hurry through as quickly as possible. 

November 2^th. In Salzburg we stopped at the 
"Golden Crown." Opposite is the house in which 
Mozart was born, with his name on the front in large 
gold letters. 



180 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

Salzburg is an old town. Most of its streets are 
narrow, and many of them run under arches. One 
of the hotels is called the " Hoile " (Hell) — a name 
not very inviting to most people. 

The St. Peter's Church is a miniature of St. Peter's 
of Rome. Haydn is buried in the St. Peter's burial- 
ground. The hospital looked anything but comforta- 
ble, with its arched rooms running into the side of the 
mountain. 

The Museum was founded by a gentleman with 
small means. The collection is entirely from Salzburg. 
There are musical instruments of every variety and 
age; a piano of the year 1500; horns seven to eight 
feet long; all sorts of guns, lances, &c., finger-rings, 
jars, vases, &c., which have been found in the mines. 
Many of the curiosities are evidently Roman. Price 
of admission, twenty kreutzers. 

Salzburg offers much that is interesting. At any 
other season of the year we should have remained 
longer. The people of the hotel were kind and atten- 
tive. Our bill was fair, and we were perfectly satisfied. 
Left at twelve at night, and a funny night we had of it. 
In the first place, we had to pay for every turn — lifting 
the trunk upon the scales to be weiglied, weighing it, 
handing our bags, &c. We were crowded into a car 
where the lamp burned so dimly that we could not see 
who were to be our companions. One after another 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN ETJKOPE. 181 

all fell asleep save me, a short time after we started. 
I was too much crowded, having to sit bolt upright, 
and partly bear the weight of a stout woman at my 
side. Said individual, after talking and laughing in 
her sleep, suddenly roused up, and asked, in American 
English, if the lady the other side of her was trying 
to pick her pocket. Luckily she was not understood. 
After fussing about a while, she asked a gentleman on 
the seat opposite to hang up her bonnet, and then set- 
tled herself down again to sleej^. The last flicker of 
the dim light had died away ; the darkness was com- 
plete. All were quiet ; and but for being conscious of 
the weight of my country woman, and the various 
long breaths and gentle little snores and puffs, I 
should have imagined myself to be dreaming, instead 
of steaming on to Vienna. Suddenly the weighty lady 
cried out, " O, dear, I shall vomit ; do let me come to 
the window ! " 

I did my best to help her move ; called upon the 
gentleman opposite to open the window. He had 
been roused from his sleep by her ejaculations, and, 
taking the word she used for bonnet, was zealously 
fumbling in the dark to find it for her. It was not 
without difficulty, and waking up all the passengers, 
that we changed places and opened the window, to 
the vexation of those who did not find the cold night 
air agreeable. In the interim of her putting her head 



182 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

iu and out of the window, I took full possession cf 
my seat, placing my little bag between us, as a wall 
of defence to myself, after which the following dia- 
logue took place : — 

" I wish you'd move ; I'm crowded." 

" You have your full seat, madam, I am on the 
boundary line." 

"But can't you take away that bag?" 

" No ; I wish to rest my elbow upon it ; it is on my 
seat." 

" Well, then, do let me go back where I was before ; 
the wind blows in at this window." 

" I am very comfortable, now, thank you." She 
grumbled about "people's impoliteness and unkind- 
ness " to her heart's content. 

December \st. Sunday. We arrived in Vienna. 
Went to a hotel which had been recommended. It 
was a miserable-looking place, and full to the fourth 
story. Very genteel-looking people going in and out. 
The porter insisted upon carrying our trunk up, and 
had to take it down again for his pains, as they could 
not persuade us to stop, recommendations notwith- 
standing. 

At the Hotel Frankfort we found very nice rooms. 
An American student of medicine called upon us while 
there. He was well satisfied in Vienna ; said the best 
professors in the world were there, and the advantages 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 183 

for study very great; the hospital was immense, and 
contained two thousand patients, ten or twelve of 
whom died daily, evidently to his great satisfaction. 
Though young, he spoke of sickness and death in a 
very doctor-like manner. Said hospital was formerly 
a convent. 

Having heard that living was very cheap in Vienna, 
we were astounded by our hotel bill, and resolved to 
change. We spent nearly the whole of two days in 
trying to find rooms in a private house, but could get 
nothing just right ; so we removed our quarters to the 
National Hotel, over the bridge, kept by Much & 
Meyer, where we could have more convenience at 
a less price. i 

There were two hundred rooms in the J^ational, 
fifty on a floor, and nearly all full. Price for reserved 
seats at the Royal Opera, three florins. A German 
lady there told us that the emperor had no taste what- 
ever for art, seldom came to the theatre, excei^t to see 
a ballet. 

We had been in Vienna only a day or two when 
we met the travelling companion who found us so 
unkind. She was full of complaints and trouble, and 
when I told her that one must not expect all home 
comforts in a foreign country, she coolly informed me 
that I could naturally bear the inconveniences and 
privations of travelling better than she, as I had not 



184 AN AMEEICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

been used to have all my wants supplied at home, 
as she had. 

Said lady inquired of one of the landlords, who 
spoke English pretty well, if there was an American 
dentist in Vienna. He did not know, but said he 
would look in the " Dictionary," and see. 

December Wi. Ui? to this date the weather had 
been very disagreeable ; rain, snow, wind, more or less, 
all the week. We looked into St. Stephen's Church, 
which we found dark (it was snowing at the time), 
dismal, and dirty in the extreme. If there was any- 
thing sj^ecial to admire, we did not find it. 

An afternoon concert tempted us to go out again. 
The concert hall was handsome, ornamented with fres- 
coes and statues, and well lighted. We chose a small 
table, and our eyes were made glad by the sight of 
placards around the room, with the words, " Das Pub- 
licum ist gebeten nicht zu rauchen." (The public 
are requested not to smoke.) However, my joy was 
of short duration, for soon one after another lighted 
their cigars, and a general puffing commenced. Some 
of the cigars were of extraordinary length, and more 
extraordinary odor. Wishing to hear the music, which 
was very fine, we remained until the smoke became of 
a choking denseness, when we left. 

Dog life in Vienna is wretched in the exti*eme. The 
poor animals are harnessed into carts, draw heavy 
loads, and look forlorn and desolate. 



AN AMEKICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 185 

Many of the streets were narrow, crowded, and 
dirty, and the houses dark and gloomy. We had 
heard such glowing descriptions of the city, that we 
were not a little disa23pointed ; but students told us 
that we had come in the wrong season of the year ; 
that the public gardens, the Prater, the concerts, were 
the best in Germany, and the people the most friendly ; 
so we supposed that they were right, and tried to 
prove it. 

It was said that the American dentist, for whom the 
lady inquired, had made a large fortune in Vienna by 
practice at court, although prohibited by law. How 
that was we could not understand, neither did our 
informant. The ballet "Flick and Flock," at the 
Royal Theatre, was superb, and the theatre well filled, 
although the prices of seats were high, compared with 
other theatres in Germany. 

Having been in the habit of opening windows to air 
rooms, we used to open the hall window opposite our 
door, which action seemed to disturb those who had 
the rooms in charge, for they ran to shut it immedi- 
ately. We then asked to have the windows opened, 
stating the necessity of so doing, to which they politely 
acquiesced in words; but instead of letting in fresh air, 
they burned juniper-berries in the passage-ways, making 
the matter worse. Then we applied to headquarters, 
but without effect, and were finally obliged to change 



186 AN AMEKICAN WOJVIAN IN EUliOPE. 

rooms, so great was the aversion of the servants to 
having a window opened. We visited the palaces of 
Esterhazy, Harrach, and Czernin, and the Belvedere, 
where we saw fine- collections of valuable pictures. 
In the Augustine Church is an elegant monument, 
executed by Canova, in 1805, at a cost of twenty 
thousand ducats. 

The mineral cabinet contains the most beautiful 
collection imaginable. Among other curiosities are a 
bouquet of precious stones, made for Maria Theresa, 
and a clear crystal, which weighs one hundred and 
forty pounds. The minerals were admirably arranged, 
and altoGfether the cabinet was the best calculated to 
facilitate study of anything we had yet seen. 

December Ibth. Still gloomy weather; only two 
pleasant days out of fifteen, and yet we were bound to 
make the most of our time, and see all that we could. 

At the Strauss Concert, in the Blumen-Saal, we sat 
at table with an officer, a very intelligent and liberal 
man, and a gentleman who knew a "leetle Ingles." 
"While one part of our company were discussing poli- 
tics and military affairs, the other part conversed as 
follows : — 

'• Once I know pretty much Ingles ; now I no have 
de praxis. I speak not grammatic. You American, 
madam; I hear it in your organ. From where you 
come ? " 



AN AMEKICAN WOMAN IN EUKOPE. 187 

"From Boston." • 

" O ! and where is Boston ? Is it near to St. Louis ? " 

" Nearer New York." 

"You excuse, madam, that I speak Ingles; it make 
me so much pleasure. How weit von New York is 
Boston?" 

We answered ; and the good man, varying his ques- 
tions, asked at least a dozen times where Boston was. 
We found his German much more interesting than 
his Ingles. 

The concert lasted from four to ten o'clock. They 
gave us seventeen pieces, including overtures, marches, 
polkas, &c., each of which was worth more than we 
paid for the whole, viz., fifteen cents. At the inter- 
missions we sipped our chocolate, and chatted with our 
new acquaintances. What a delightful way of spend- 
ing an evening I 

The hall was well filled by a mixed company, 
yet there was no noise and no confusion. People 
behaved well, and seemed to enjoy the music and each 
other's society. It took a good part of a day to see 
the Palace of Prince Liechtenstein ; walked through 
twenty-six rooms ; saw fifteen hundred and thirty-six 
pictures, some extra good, to w^hich we gave our chief 
attention. They said that this prince was the richest 
in Austria; he owned eight palaces in Vienna alone. 
Prince Esterhazy once owned ninety-nine, the largest 



188 AN america:n^ woman in eueope. 

number a private prince is allowed to possess; but he 
squandered away almost the whole of his immense 
fortune. 

With the idea of seeing for ourselves, we went into 
a fashionable restaurant, and ordered macaroni with 
cheese, &c., for which they charged high. 

The food was excellent and very reasonable at our 
hotel : we could have a plate of luscious soup for six 
cents ; goose liver, ragout, beefsteak, &c., proportion- 
ally cheaj). There was no table d'hote, and people 
could choose from the bill of fare; we were puzzled, 
for a long time, by the peculiar names given to the 
different dishes. Once we ordered roast chicken, and, 
after waiting a long time, they brought it to us 
smothered in green peas, and made so sweet that we 
could not eat it. The coffee, chocolate, and bread 
were superexcellent. Vienna bread surpasses all the 
cake that ever was made : it is so good that one never 
tires of it. A mother does not give her children cake 
between meals; always the "brodchen," which satis- 
fies the child's hunger, without injuring its stomach. 

December 23c?. We saw a market woman trying to 
warm her poor old hands over a pitcher of hot water; 
several of them had small furnaces by their side, on 
which to heat coffee and soup. There were very few 
turkeys in the market, and they commanded a high 
price ; hares and pigeons were abundant ; there were 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUKOPE. 189 

also fresh tomatoes and nice-looking grajDes. We had 
taken into our head to have some squash pies for 
Christmas, and searched Vienna through to find 
squash, but did not succeed. 

Although it was cold and snowy, people were hur- 
rying and scurrying through the streets; every third 
person seemed to be carrying a Christmas tree, and 
many of them were fully decorated, trimmed with 
gilded nuts« tapers, ribbons, paper flowers, and bonbons. 
All of a sudden the crowd moved aside for the im- 
perial carriage, which was drawn by six white horses, 
with postilions, footmen, and coachmen — all in white. 
They looked well. Only one lady in the carriage. 
Poor old woman, to need six horses and four men to 
get her from place to place! 

Christmas Day we went to the Minoriten Church to 
hear the music, which was as good as an opera. There 
were three female voices, very sweet and strong; 
drums, French horns, violins, organ, &c. They per- 
formed a fugue from Bach superbly. We did not 
find the church so beautiful as we were told it was : 
it seemed to us small, inelegant, dingy, and cold. 

A resident of Vienna, who called u|3on us, was 
charmed with our room, because we could have a 
ray of sunlight in it. She said that, in many of the 
best houses in the city, it was so dark in some of the 
rooms, that people ate by gas or candle light. 



190 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

January 1, 1868. The church bells rang merrily; 
it seemed to be a high holiday. Peoi:)le ran in and 
out of the churches. It is wonderful what a charm a 
few dro23S of holy water is to some of them ; having 
dipped their fingers in it, they do not stop for sermon 
or prayer. 

Our large, handsome room was so cold that we were 
forced to move into a smaller one, for which they 
charged nearly the same price. We ordered a dozen 
boiled onions, with drawn butter, for a person in the 
next room; the waiter appeared at dinner with a 
large stone jar, asking if that would hold onions 
enough, and how he should fix them; said he could 
not conceive of persons eating onions simply boiled ; 
thought he had misunderstood. 

January ^th. We rose at five, took cofiee, and 
bade farewell to the National and its keepers. At 
six o'clock it was as dark as night, the streets still 
lighted. The weather had been so uncommonly disa- 
greeable, that we could not judge of Vienna; how- 
ever, it looked as ifj at any other than winter time, it 
might be all that is said of it. The people were 
jovial, social, and kind-hearted. 

The ride over the Semmerinof Mountain is one 
never to be forgotten; the railroad is wonderfully 
constructed, winding through fifteen tunnels, and over 
as many bridges. Nothing could exceed the beauty 



AN AMEEICAN WOMAN IN EUKOPE. 191 

of the winter scene: trees dressed in wliite; deep 
' ravines ; little streams ; ice, hanging from the rocks ; 
and far, far in the distance below, the miniature habi-. 
tations of men. 

We remained in Gratz but one day, and saw very 
little of the place on account of the unfavorable 
weather. The Johann Hotel, in which we were, was 
pleasant, and is much frequented in summer by Eng- 
lish people ;xfare reasonable. At the depot, we bought 
roast chicken, wine, and bread, to take with us, ex- 
tremely cheap. 

It vv'as snowing ftist when we set out, and the cars 
moved slowly and carefully along. There were no 
heaters in them, but we were comfortably warm, being 
well wrapped. We had pleasant company, and kept 
up a lively conversation; took our dinner of roast 
chicken as we moved along. When we arrived at 
Laibach, another gentleman joined us. He was very 
intelligent ; had travelled a great deal ; spoke English, 
French, and Italian ; gave lis much useful information. 
By and by the train stopped in an out-of-the-way 
place on the Karst Mountains ; there was much run- 
ning, shovelling, and anxiety on the part of the con- 
ductor. On we moved again at a very slow rate, 
but there was no doubt that we should get through 
to Trieste. By and by another and a longer stop. 
Once more started, we supposed our troubles were 



192 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

over; not so, however. Again we stopped, and, after 
much labor in the snow, and long waiting (hoping that 
the expected train from Trieste would have cleared the 
way), the car door was opened, and we were told that 
it was impossible to proceed. It was past eight, still 
snowing, no house visible ; we knew that we were on 
the mountain, and that was all. 

The conductor was very kind and attentive; the 
men did all they could for the passengers — shovelling 
a path to the small depot, in Rakek, where we were. 
Thither we all went, and huddled round a stove, look- 
ing about the forlorn place for quarters to bestow 
ourselves for the night. There were two American 
ladies, with three children, — one had scarcely recov- 
ered from a severe sickness, — several German and 
French ladies, quite a party of gentlemen and boys ; 
so that the small room was filled, and there were not 
half seats enough even for the women. Our boots 
and skirts were filled with snow ; altogether, we were 
a pitiable set. The conductor informed us that there 
was a small restaurant near ; so a few of the cou- 
rageous started again through the snow-path which 
led to it. Here they were ushered into a small, hot 
room, adjoining one in which were several carousing, 
half-drunken musicians discoursing a boisterous and 
disagreeable music. In a few minutes, one of the 
gentlemen, who was with us in the car, came to tell 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 193 

US that he had hired a room for the night, to w.hich 
Aie invited us. There was no fire in it, and we walked 
to keep ourselves warm, while they were kindling one. 
Then we partook of warm refreshments. The owner 
of the establishment offered us a room in the cellar. 
Meanwhile, the officials had been caring for us. They 
went to the chief man of the town, who lived in a 
good-sized house, engaged rooms for the passengers, 
and sleighs for their conveyance. The poor horses 
had a hard tug wading through the snow, but we 
were all landed safely in about two hours. The good 
people gave up their rooms and their beds, and ar- 
ranged us for the night as well as they could ; they 
placed three beds in the parlor, and gave it to the 
single lady and ourselves ; said lady had to keep our 
stronger half in the cold entry while she made her 
night toilet: cold cream, gloves, cologne water — all 
were sought in the depths profound of her travel- 
ling bag, as they were indispensable to her comfort. 
It was nearly midnight before we were prepared 
to rest; and when we were fairly asleep, she woke 
us up by trotting round the room in search of some- 
thing which she had forgotten. 

Next morning the sleigh was at the door at nine 

o'clock, and we were told to get ready as quickly as 

possible ; the American ladies and children went first 

to the depot. When the sleigh returned, they said 

13 



194 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

thejt were disappointed : the cars could not run. We 
watched the men shovelhng snow from the railroad 
bridge ; there was nothing else to see. Rakek is a 
village of some half dozen houses, a sort of wood 
depot ; its inhabitants are mostly wood-cutters. The 
people of the neighboring towns go there to pur- 
chase timber and wood. 

The people of our house were extremely kind ; they 
furnished a nice dinner at a moderate price, considering 
the circumstances. They seemed to be well-to-do peo- 
ple, having a grand piano and violin, with a good quan- 
tity of sheet music and photographs, a nice collection 
of books, and many pictures. We were deliberating 
upon the best nse to make of our time after dinner, 
when a messenger came from the depot, in hot liaste, 
to get the passengers : this time we were oflf in earnest. 

Our ride through the snow appeared worse than the 
night before, because we saw the danger clearer. Once 
in the car again, we expected to start, but remained on 
the s})ot for a full hour. Just as all was ready, it was 
found that the lamps had been forgotten, and the oil 
was frozen ; so we waited slill a while longer, and not 
very patiently. Our new acquaintance recommended 
the Grand Hotel, in Trieste, and gave us a frightful 
account of the Bora, a north wind, which raises people 
from their feet, blows down chimneys, overturns car- 
riages, and tears up all before it : he thought we should 



AX AMERICAN WOMAN IX EUROPE. 195 

soon have one ; quite encouraging, toe thought. The 
distance from Gratz to Tiieste is nine hours by steam. 
As we drew near, the snowy landscajoe diminished, and 
when we arrived, at eight o'clock, there was not a sin- 
gle particle of snow to be seen, except on the distant 
mountains. 

We chose an upper room, which commanded a fine 
view of the harbor, and Maximilian's castle, Miramar, 
in the distance ; but we had rather more cool air than 
we needed. Our head waiter, an indifferent sort of 
sleepy-headed fellow, said yes to everj^thing. The 
Italian porter was always ready for orders and coj^- 
pers ; there we had one small pitcher of water and one 
tumbler; suppose they thought we could see water 
enough from the window, without having it in the 
chamber. The host was too busy to meddle with hotel 
matters, and what the sleepy waiter did not manage, 
managed itself. 

January '^th. The body of Maximilian was hourly 
expected ; a carriage drawn by six black horses stood 
on the wharf, ready to receive it. All the hotels were 
filled with officers waiting its arrival ; but it came not. 

We chose what we liked for dinner, and what they 
gave us was of good quality, and reasonable in price. 
We provided our own suppers, which generally con- 
sisted of bread and fruit ; bought white sugar at ten 
cents per pound, and sweet oranges and lemons at ten 



19G AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EURORE. 

cents per dozen. We bad a fine chance to see the mar- 
ket and market people fioni the dining-room windows. 
There were hirge sacks of Indian meal, — the first we 
had seen since we left America, — cheese of various col- 
ors and kinds, from dark orange to pale white — one soft 
cream-like cheese was our favorite, — and piles of oranges 
and lemons; fish was various, abundant, and good ; in 
short, the market was well stocked, and both men and 
women seemed to drive a good business. 

We paid more for washing in Trieste than elsewhere, 
and the reason tliey gave for it was a good one, viz., 
the bringing of water and tlie high price of wood. 

We went through several narrow streets, where were 
congregated miserable-looking people of all nations. 

Mr. Bora was driving the people through the streets, 
and making, what we thought, a great rumpus, though 
they said he was in good humor, and particularly mild 
for him. 

The Grand Hotel is very old, and memorable as 
being the place where Winkelmann was assassinated. 

Our American consul is a pleasant and obliging man; 
he said that we had lost many fine sights by coming to 
Trieste in the winter season. Speaking of duties, he 
told us of a lady who was fined one hundred and 
twenty-five florins for having silk (for a dress) in her 
trunk, besides being detained with her party three 
days in a hotel oii account of it. Rather costly dress 
that. 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 197 

January Vltli. Started from the hotel with our 
baggage in a nice carriage, instead of the omnibus, for 
which we had paid the evening previous. Took coffee 
in a cold, dirty depot ; then set off for N^abresiiia on our 
way to Venice. Had a fine view of Miramar. The 
snow-clad Karst looked so coldly at us for a long dis- 
tance, that we felt its chill. In some places the soil 
was poor and the land barren, although the farm- 
houses, for the most part, were larger and better look- 
ing than those of German peasants. Now and then 
we passed castles on hiils, behind them ranges of dark 
hills, and above and beyond peered the snowy tops of 
the Alps. 

At Nabresina was a clean, warm depot, and a fine 
large wall map of Europe, with the railroads clearly 
defined. 

At Udine the ofiicers appeared to think our lunch- 
eon-box a suspicious affair, and treated it accordingly. 
A poor, old man, with a very anxious look, hurried up 
to the officer and began to talk about sugar; upon 
which he seized the man's old carpet bag, and pulled 
therefrom old slippers, an old cap, handkerchief, twine, 
bits of paper, and finally the small package of sugar- 
plums which had caused the poor man so much worri- 
ment of mind. 

The villages and towns were larger and handsomer 
as we approached Venice, the grass quite green in 



198 AN AMEEICAN WOMAN IN EUBOPE. 

spots, plants in the open windows, and everything 
haviusT a cheerful look. 

Januarij \Wi. Arrived in Venice, we had no 
trouble with our baggage, and found not only a gon- 
dola, but the proprietor of the Hotel Bauer, to which 
we intended to go. It was very lively in St. Mark's 
Place in the evening; several persons in masks were 
making speeches and noises; ladies, gentlemen, and 
children, like ourselves, were walking round to see 
the fun. 

Once in my chamber, L begged the maid to bring me 
more water; at which she tossed her head, looked 
amazed, and asked what I wanted it for. The idea 
of a person's needing a whole pitcher full seemed to 
strike her as peculiar. She brought it, however, but 
not very pleasantly. 

That morning we took a gondola by the hour; rowed 
through the grand canal out into the harbor; saw the 
principal palaces and public institutions. Bridge of Sighs, 
Rialto, &c., ships and sailors of different nations, some 
islands, many sea birds, &c. ; paid for the trip of two 
and a half hours two and a half francs. We thought 
that the most delightful sail we ever had. The weatlier 
was perfect, gondola moved easily and quietly along, 
boatman polite and communicative, and we all eyes 
and ears to see and hear. 

Many things are sold in the streets of Venice. Beg- 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 199 

gars follow you in all directions. Poor people, boys 
and girls, in dirty rags, stand beside the wealthy and 
well dressed. 

The gold and precious stones in the Church of St. 
Mark can be seen only at certain days, on certain hours. 
Our maid said, " O, dear, madam, it would never do 
to have them exposed all the time." " Why not ? " I 
asked. " They would be stolen." " Stolen from the 
church I" we exclaimed. "Certainly," she replied, 
very coolly. " The poor Italians think they have more 
need of gold than the Virgin and saints have, and they 
are right." 

One ought to live a long time in Venice to see satis- 
factorily all that is to be seen ; but we were there 
only four days. How little time, and yet how much f 
Our chamber-maid told us that the houses were filled 
with worms and insects in warm weather : if they 
are disgusting to her, what must they be to the 
stranger! It is curious to see so many people and so 
much movement, and not to see a horse or a cow. We 
are so accustomed to seeing horses in cities that we 
were almost lost without them. A gondola took us to 
the church of the Frari, where are the tombs of Can ova, 
of the Doges of Venice, &c.; also splendid monuments 
and fine paintings of the old masters. Those in the 
palace of the doges are magnificent. That of Paradise, 
by Tintoretto, is the largest oil painting in the world. 






200 AN AMElilCAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

There are several thousand figures, and it cost the 
artist seven years' labor. 

The first time we went into St. Mark's Church, there 
were only two or three beggars near the door, and 
half a dozen old women kneeling at the difierent altars, 
while some thirty priests were reading prayers and 
responding, one party to the other, on each side of the 
altar, and taking off and putting on their caps as if for 
exercise. 

After reading of banditti in Naples sustained by a 
priest, who received large sums for praying for those 
who had been killed, went into a church, and read a 
proclamation for a fast day, to pray for the punishment 
of hell fire upon those who had dared to take up arms 
against the pope. It ended with, " Such a sin merits 
hell fire more than any other." 

In the Palace of Fine Arts is a large original As- " 
cension, by Titian, very beautiful. 

The weather was mild, and sun pleasant ; stores cold 
and gloomy. Many people had chilblains on their 
hands. 

Among other things, they sell and eat squash and 
acacia seeds and the seeds of pine nuts, in the streets. 

One is well paid for a walk down tlie Mola by the 
sight of such a mixture of nations. Venice contains 
one hundred and twenty-five thousand inhabitants ; 
there are one hundred and forty-seven canals, three 



AN AMEEICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 201 

hundred and seventy-eight bridges, and one hundred 
and seventeen islands. 

January \^tli. We passed a mock inspection at the 
depot, took coftee and poor bread in a cold, dirty 
room, and set off at half past ten from beautiful, beauti- 
ful Venice — the most beautiful of any place yet, with 
its wonderful buildings and rare sights. We had had 
fine weather, and enjoyed every moment of the time 
we were there, notwithstanding our room in the hotel 
(said to be one of the best) was a very poor affair, with 
a stove, looking, for all the world, like an orange-box 
turned up ; and we were careful to go into the dining- 
room without spectacles. They knew how to charge 
well for everything. 

It grew colder as we advanced on our journey. 
There was much snow in Padua and Rovigo. It was 
very cold going through the Apennines. The tunnels 
from Bologne to Florence are numerous, and of great 
length. A peculiar feeling comes over you at the 
grandness of the scene when you find yourself high 
above human habitations, and see nothing but the 
summits of hills and mountains around. 

January llth. At half past eight we were in Flor- 
ence, and drove directly to the Pension Allianza via di 
Scala. Found no less than ten Americans there. 
The price was seven francs per day each. They had 
three meals, followed by tea. Everything looked ex- 



202 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUKOPE. 

treniely neat and nice. We heard " I vow," repeated- 
ly from tlie young ladies, and slang phrases from an 
elderly gentleman, which grated harshly on our ear; 
indeed, we did not care to hear English, and nothing 
but English, in Italy. We sallied out in good season, 
the next morning, in quest of furnished rooms. I soon 
tired, and sat down in the kitchen of a house with the 
Jiiaster and mistress. The former was cooking. Both 
Were very communicative. The woman looked cold ; 
carried a scoldella (sort of earthen basket) of coals in 
her hands to keep them warm. They told me that it 
had not bCen so cold in Florence for twenty years, and 
that many families suffered in consequence. The 
woman was very kind, and offered me coffee and soup. 
The kitchen was large, a queer-looking place, unlike 
anything I ever saw in my own country. On one side 
Was a well with its " moss-covered bucket." It looked 
BO odd that I could not help speaking of it, and the 
man explained the convenience of having a well of 
water up stairs. Both floor and well top were of 
«tone. There were several windows, sufficiently thick- 
ened with dirt to prevent the necessity of curtains. 
The cooking establishment was neither stove nor 
range, but a something similar to both, with numerous 
little holes in which to kindle a handful of charcoal. 
I should judge that there was a separate fire for each 
vessel required to cook in. There were many cooking 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 203 

utensils hanging and lying abont, none cleaner than the 
windows. On the table were broken cups, old candle- 
sticks, egg-shells, onions, tallow, blacking and brushes, 
together with the handsome coffee cups and saucers 
which had been brought from the rooms of lodgers, 
with whom the house was filled. Both man and 
woman looked clean ; and the latter, a young person, 
had on a nice white cap. They were not disturbed 
by my company, but continued their work, answering 
my questions, and asking me about America, which 
they considered the greatest country in the world. 

We made a regular business of house-hunting all 
this day. One handsome, large room (looking upon 
the marble church of St. Maria de la Croce, and the 
fine statue of Dante in front of it), exposed to the morn- 
ing sun, would have suited ; but the floor was of stone, 
without carpet or rug, and neither fireplace nor place 
for a stove. In another house the room was very 
small, and the lady offered us the privilege of sitting in 
Tier parlor, where she sometdmes had a fire. Again, 
they asked six francs per day for one room, without 
conveniences. In a desirable part of the city, a lady 
had a nice room at a fair price ; we were mutually sat- 
isfied with all except that we could have no fire. " I 
will give you scoldellas," said the lady. " But we cannot 
lose our time in cai-rying them round to keep us warm," 
we answered. She seemed puzzled, put her hands upon 



204 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

her head, as if to think, and then said, " O, now I think 
of it, my neighbor has a stove in her garret; it was 
left by some English lodgers ; I will borrow it, and set 
it in the middle of the room for you." 

"But where will you put the funnel?" we asked. 

" Funnel ! " she repeated. " Why, it needs none." 

" It will smoke," we said. 

" I think not," she replied. " I will get it, and try. 
Come to-morrow, and all will be in order." 

We were amused with the good woman's simplicity ; 
but as we knew that her experiment would not suc- 
ceed, we did not go on the morrow. 

Although tiresome, it was interesting to see so 
much of Italian life, and we enjoyed it. We looked 
along the right side of the Arno. Rent high. Finally 
we found rooms, Via St. Lucia, which were just what 
we wanted ; but there was a quibbling about price, 
which led us to fear that the people were tricky : 
however, we told what we were willing to give, and a 
bargain was made. Then we returned to Pension 
Alliance, where we had a nice dinner, English flishiou. 
It was quite refreshing to find ourselves in neat, clean 
rooms, after having been in so many dirty houses. 
Next morning, when we went to see about our rooms, 
the woman told a long story about an offer they had 
had, and wished us to pay more. We told her that 
we held ourselves by the agreement of yesterday, and 



AN AMEEICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 205 

if she was not suited, would go elsewhere; upon which 
she begged us to remain. She proved to be a veiy 
kind, agreeable woman, and did all in her power to 
make our home pleasant ; she was very neat, and we 
were quite happy while under her roof. We found 
out by experience that the Italians try to get all they 
can at first ; but when they find that you mean to do 
right on your part, and will not be imposed upon, they 
are kindness itself, and do not attempt to take any 
mean advantage. This woman, whose action, at first, 
led us to doubt her honesty, served us faithfully, and 
did even more than she bargained for, and, when we 
offered extra pay, refused to take it. 

For our two rather small rooms, carpeted and hand- 
somely" furnished, we paid fifty francs for two weeks. 
There was a nice grate in the pai'lor, and windows 
commanding a fine view. We could have had them 
much cheaper by the month. The fifty francs in- 
cluded service. Our dinner was brought fi-om a restau- 
l^ant for about three francs, making it, on the whole, 
much cheaper than at the pension. 

We met with an American gentleman who had 
pushed his way into Egypt, and made out well every- 
where without the knowledge of languages. He 
seemed quite surprised that he was recognized as a 
Yankee. "Why," said he, — "would you believe it? 
— even the Arabs j^icked me right out for a Yankee,'* 



206 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

Our first visit was to the tomb of our dear Theodore 
Parker. The lovely spot which encloses the remains 
of this great and good man, is marked by a simple 
gray stone ; and it is well so : such men need no 
sculptured marble to tell of their deeds. 

Quite a home-like feeling came over us as we made 
our coffee at our own fire, and had our breakfast after 
our own fashion. The good woman brought our milk 
boiled, and insisted upon clearing away our breakfast 
things. She wondered why we did not ring the bell 
oftener; said she expected to be called upon con- 
tinually; that the lady who last occupied those rooms 
wanted something done for her almost every hour in 
the day, and often in the night; she had several times 
risen from her bed to wait upon her. This time we 
rejoiced that said exacting lady was not an American, 
for we do not like to be constantly told of the ill 
manners of our countrymen. 

We called upon Professor S., so much famed for 
his knowledge of the nervous system. He has a pleas- 
ant, intelligent face, but he tortures animals by his 
practice of vivisection. There was a poor dog in the 
study that made my heart bleed. I dared not look in 
his face, feeling guilty for the cruelty of man towards 
him. His limbs were distorted and swollen; his body 
a wreck of skin and bones; and the plaintive noise he 
iinade rang through my ears for days after. A large 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 207 

cat was in a cage, probably waiting her turn to be 
experimented upon. 

A gentleman told us that an English lady got up a 
petition, signed by eight hundred people, begging him 
to desist from making his experiments ; but he abso- 
lutely refused, saying that all he did was in the cause 
of humanity. Then she published several articles 
against the cruel man, but without effect. 

Visited Powers's and Ball's studios. The latter has 
a bust of Everett, which is true to the life. 

In the evening saw a funeral. It was the custom to 
bury the dead at night. Some priests, covered with 
white cloth, and wearing black hats, bore the body. 
Others cariied long wax torches, while men and boys 
ran at their side to collect the melted wax. Without 
seeing the coffin one could never have imagined that it 
was a funeral, from the noise and sport they seemed to 
make of it. The people in general are very noisy in 
the streets: they scream, shout, and sing day and 
liight. I woke up towards midnight, and heard a 
dismal, doleful, and sad music. It w^as the chanting 
of priests. Looked out, and saw a similar funeral pro- 
cession, though it was much longer and less boisterous. 
We were told of a silly custom in the city, viz. : when 
an accident occurred in the streets, the bell of the 
Dome rang once ; serious, twice ; death, three times. 
Of course every one feared for the members of the 



208 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

family out of the house, and the whole community 
was convulsed. 

We inquired into the cause of so much blindness 
and so many sore eyes as we saw, especially among 
the poorer classes, and were told that it was probably 
owing to want of washing the eyes, or wiping on dirty 
towels. Informant said such eye diseases were con- 
tagious, the matter being conveyed from one to an- 
other by the towels. The people suffer much from 
chilblains on hands and feet. Many had severe coughs. 
Their clothing was quite unsuited to the season. 

January 21s^. The most gorgeous sunset conceiv- 
able, and we had such a fine view of it from our 
window ! — the richest red, gold, orange, yellow, and 
purple ! At eight o'clock w^ent to the Rossini Thea- 
tre — a queer little place, where we were obliged to 
go down into the cellar, and through a dismal, damp 
passage-way, and up again, to get to our reserved 
seats. 

In 1868 Florence contained one hundred and twen- 
ty thousand inhabitants, eighty-seven churches, and 
twelve theatres tolerably well patronized (the theatres, 
I mean, not the churches). We never found many 
people in church, except when military bands per- 
formed. It was easily seen that the music was the 
attraction, because they came when it began, and 
went out when it ended. 



AN AMBKICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 209 

People go into the churches, walk about, look at the 
pictures and statuary, and walk out again, even in 
service time. Many devotees make it all right by 
dipping their fingers into the holy water, bowing or 
courtesying to the altars, and crossing themselves. 
' Many churches have been converted into public in- 
stitutions. Much has been done, and is doing, for 
education. There are public schools and Sunday 
schools; also free lectures, which are well attended. 
Dr. Appleton, of Boston, a resident of Florence for 
the last fifteen years (to whose politeness and atten- 
tions we are much indebted), considers Florence in a 
very progressive state. 

We noticed that people have water in the different 
stories of their houses. Some pump it up, and others 
^ draw it from a spring or reservoir in the yard under 
15 the window, by means of ropes and wires. The latter 
t is an awkward arrangement, but certainly better than 
^ carrying it up in tubs on the head, German fashion. 
^Asses perform a great deal of labor ; they travel well, 
^ carry heavy loads, are very enduring, and far from 
being stupid, as they are generally said to be. But 
the poor creatures are ill treated, as, indeed, are ani- 
mals generally : the common people are very cruel to 
them. They pluck their poultry alive, and, when the 
poor bird screams, dash its head against a stone to 
stun it; and this is done in the 023en market, and, 
14 



210 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

though revolting to many, no action is taken to pre- 
vent such brutality. 

How glorious was the sun, and how well we ap- 
preciated his influence after a few cold, drizzly days ! 
Seeing him burst from a cloud, we exclaimed, "No 
wonder that Powers will chisel your rays upon the 
bosom of his 'Charity,' to typify her character; for, 
if the sun be not a fit emblem of charity, what is ? " 

Walking through the Lungo del Arno, we were 
attracted to a sign, on which the American Eagle was 
painted. It proved to be a tailor's sign. Under the 
Eagle were the words, " Furnisher to the Consulate of 
the United States." A new system of republican 
representation. 

In fine weather the Lungo del Arno is the fashion- 
able place for driving. There it is that the English 
and Americans can make a show of themselves, their 
rich dresses, their skill in driving, and their horse- 
manship. We were told that some of the ancient, 
noble families of the city, who have scarcely bread 
enough to eat in their houses, appear in elegant car- 
riages, with servants in livery; also that many of 
these families actually live in their garrets to let their 
houses to strangers. 

Young men are obliged to enter the army as soldiers 
at eighteen, and serve six years. Rich and poor are 
treated alike. Eight hundred francs will buy any one 
off from the service. 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 211 

Returning home from an evening visit on the other 
side of the Arno, we could but feel how gloomy and 
forlorn some of the dark, narrow streets were, where a 
person could scarcely escape any danger which might 
threaten. If he seized a door-bell, it would avail little, 
as, instead of a friendly face, and a well-lighted entry, 
the door would, in all probability, open into a dark 
passage-way, and a voice from above call out, " Who 
is there?" We always carried a taper in our 
pocket, that we might light the way up stairs for our- 
selves when necessary. Notwithstanding minor in- 
conveniences, we lived very pleasantly in Florence, 
and, when the time came to take another start, we felt 
sorry to give up our nice rooms, and leave the kind 
woman, who had taken so much care for and interest 
in us, and more sorry to bid adieu to a city which 
offers so much to the student and lover of art. We 
had fully occupied three weeks in seeing w^hat could 
scarcely be seen properly in three years or more. The 
Gallery of the Uffizi, which is open to the public, 
requires several and long visits to get merely a general 
idea of what it contains. One serious drawback to us 
v/as the stone floor, our eyes refusing to do their work 
faithfully while our feet were aching with cold. In 
the Hall of Deputies ladies talked so loud as to 
prevent our hearing the speeches — a great disap- 
pointment. 



212 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROrE. 

In Michael Angel o's liouse and gallery one sees the 
history of his family in paintings, his own handwriting, 
his study, — a very small room, occupying about tlie 
space of a good-sized closet, with a window in it, — 
his slippers, his cane, all carefully preserved. 

The Gallery of Fine Arts contains an immense quan- 
tity of religious subjects, many of which were studies 
for copyists. We were told that many of the persons 
who gain their livelihood by copying make only one pic- 
ture their study, and by dint of doing the same thing 
over and over again, they acquire great flicility, paint cor- 
rectly, and are able to furnish the traders at moderate 
prices. Among the valuable things to be seen in the 
Museum, the anatomical collection in wax is one which 
strikes the beholder with astonishment and wonder; 
the bodies and their parts are so perfectly natural that 
you imagine you smell a hospital smell, and feel sick at 
your stomach ; only few persons are employed in pre- 
paring the subjects. This business is their life study, 
and they are supported by government. 

The Chapel of the Princes, built by order of the 
Grand Duke Ferdinand I. in 1604, is rich in fine mar- 
ble and stones of great value ; it cost twenty-three mil- 
lion florins. Cosmo II. hoped to bring the tomb of 
Christ into it : failing in this, he consecrated it to the 
repose of the Medici. The paintings in the cupola 
are grand, rich, and imposing. 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. ' 213 

There are about nine thousand manuscripts in the 
library Laurenziana, among them those of Alfieri, of 
Dante, of Petrarca, &c., a Virgil and a Bible of 
the sixth century. Most of the manuscripts which we 
examined were written in a neat, fine hand. But we 
will not speak of what all travellers see and know. 

February A.th. The depot at Florence is furnished 
with nice hair-cloth seats, under a glass roof, over a 
black and white inlaid marble pavement, upon which 
the various offices of officials, baggage-rooms, &c., open. 
We saw how they cleaned the marble floor, viz. : they 
poured a quantity of moist sawdust upon it, then 
rubbed the sawdust over the floor with soft brushes, 
after which they swept it clean. The sawdust seemed 
to take off all the spots, and leave the marble clean 
and polished. 

In the car wdth us were a young father and his son, 
a handsome boy, who was quite sick ; upon inquiry as 
to the cause, found the child had eaten soup, milk,, and 
sausages for breakfast. 

Vfe stopped in Pisa to see the Baptistery, Campo 
Santo, Dome, and Leaning Tower, all unique in their 
kind, and very beautiful : fortunately for the traveller 
who is in haste, they are all near together. Near the 
tower was a specimen of a monk, quite new to us ; he 
was covered from head to foot in light blue cambric, in 
which were holes for his eyes and nose ; he followed 



214 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

US, Sticking a plate under our nose, until we gave him 
a few coppers, when he ran to persecufe another party. 

We often found the sovereign virtue of copper in 
freeing us from importunities, and setting things right. 

A travelling companion told us of an eccentric Eng- 
lish lady of seventy-five years of age, who travelled 
alone : she went to Egypt, and when there took it into 
her head to be hoisted to the toj? of Pompey's Pillar ; 
some English sailors accomplished the feat, for which 
she rewarded them with a kiss. The gentleman, who 
had been to Naples many times, said it was not un- 
common to see gouty old English people trying to 
scramble up Vesuvius. 

Leghorn is half an hour's distance from Pisa by rail. 
From the window of my room in the Hotel du Nord, 
I gazed upon the living mass below — the harbor, ships, 
boats, sailors, companies of soldiers, ship-yard ; men at 
work, women knitting, maid-servants promenading in 
showy calicoes, with red jackets, and long trains sweep- 
ing the dirty streets ; ladies' in silks and velvets, nurses 
with sashes, fancy-colored slippers, and long white lace 
veils hanging down behind; dandies with light kid 
gloves and quizzing glasses, beggars and blind men, 
harp and hand-organ players ; carriage racing, men on 
horseback, men screaming their wares, newspaper 
women and boys, — altogether a heterogeneous and 
noisy assembly, which stunned and confounded me. 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUIIOPE. 215 

In the dining-room was a large picture of Boston, 
which we greefed as an old friend. They gave us an 
ordinary dinner. Our chamber was furnished simply; 
beds excellent. J^ext morning we walked about the 
city, went into a church, saw a man watering his store 
with a bottle, although there w^as no scarcity of tin- 
shops and water-pots. The stores are large and deep, 
generally neat, but not handsome. 

They showed us a great deal of attention at the 
hotel, but made us pay dearly for it. We paid our bill, 
but wrote down Hotel du Nord a shave. 

At the depot, found all polite for a copper. We 
were the only Americans who took second class cars 
for Rome. 

For an hour or so the hills looked pleasant : men and 
women were at work in the fields; many were spading; 
in some places they were ploughing with fine, large, 
fat, white oxen; all the oxen we saw between Leghorn 
and Rome were either white or cream-colored. Daisies 
and buttercups peeped out from the green grass ; now 
and then a fly, a mosquito, or a light-colored butterfly 
flitted in front of the car window. All looked as it 
does about the first of May at home. After two hours' 
ride the hills assumed a wavy look ; for long distances 
no trees, no shrubbery ; now and then a house or a 
windmill, and a flock of sheep guarded by women. 
One ride over the dismal marshes is quite enough. 



216 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

Our train went very slowly, stopping at every small 
place. Fortunately for us, they were "far apart. We 
saw a few villages on the hill-tops in the distance. 
Some of the fiirm-houses are so constructed that the 
family live over the barn ; the staircases are on the 
outside of the buildings. At Montalto we were 
called upon to give up our passport, and have our 
things examined. While waiting we saw people going 
in and out of what we took to be a large haystack, 
with an opening in the side ; it was surmounted by a 
wooden cross, and proved to be a chapel. 

February Qth. We made a short stay at the Hotel 
Minerva. Hotels must live ; so must we ; and we could 
do it better by hiring rooms, getting our own breakfast 
and supper, and having our dinner sent in. In one 
house they charged extortionately ; in another the en- 
trance smelled badly ; in a third, on the Piazza di 
Spagna, in a nice house where finely-dressed ladies 
and gentlemen were going in and out, the objection 
was, that a dirty-looking man sat in the dirty entry 
at the front door, selling dirty dogs and their pups. 
After much search and striving to get two rooms on 
the sunny side of some central street, we found about 
what we wanted in the Via Condotti ; and in less 
than twenty-four hours after our arrival in Rome, we 
were housekeeping, seventy-six steps above the street, 
where we had sun and air, and where they assured us 



AN AMEP.ICAX WOMAN IN EUROPE. 217 

it was very healthy. Agreed to pay sixty-five francs 
per month rent, and ten francs service. Went down 
stairs to the Restaiirant Lepre, where we had good 
dinners, inchiding wine, for from three to three and a 
half francs for both. We found some of our dearest 
friends from America on the same street, a short dis- 
tance from us ; but they had risen higher, being obhged 
to mount one hundred and seven steps to their very 
fine apartments, for which they paid in the same pro- 
portion as we did. 

At the Borghese PaLice we were obhged to hurry 
through, the rooms were so cold. Pictures, mostly 
sacred, plenty of Madonnas, a beautiful Raphael, 
many ladies copying, splendid marble and mosaic 
tables, glass paintings, &c. From a back window 
we looked upon the Tiber, at that place and time 
muddy and insignificant. From thence we drove to 
the Villa Borghese and the Pincio; saw fine plants 
and shrubs, abundance of japonicas in bloom, orange 
trees laden with fruit, and enormous cacti. There 
was no end to the monks and priests. We saw priests 
in white, priests in black, monks in dark brown, in 
light brown, in red, in black, in gray, and some of 
them disgustingly dirty-looking creatures. Looking 
into one shop window, we saw people working on 
mosaics. What a deal of patience must be required 
to sit at the bench day after day, picking up those 



218 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 

infinitesimal bits of stone, with tiny instruments! 
Those who complain of the prices they pay for. such 
things could better judge of their worth if they had 
to make them. 

In another window we saw women making large 
colored beads; they dipped a wire with a round end 
into a vessel containing some soft substance, then 
stood the wire up on end to dry: the operation was 
like the dipping of grape glasses to make wax grapes. 
I suppose these artisans are obliged to sit near the 
windows of their shops and work-rooms to get all of 
the few rays of light which enter those dark, gloomy 
rooms on the ground floor. 

It is no wonder that the Roman people suffer from 
fevers and rheumatism, for the streets are so narrow, 
and the houses so high, that the poor unfortunates, 
who are obliged to live and work on the first floor, 
enjoy very little of sun, light, or air. 

We became acquainted with a girl of nine years ; 
she was very bright and active ; her mother com- 
plained to us that it was almost impossible to make 
her go to school, although she learned easily. We 
talked with her about her school, asked to see her 
school books, and then concluded that she showed 
her good sense in being tired of such instruction. 
She had one ABC book, with a few short stories 
of saints at the end, which she knew by heart; one 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPe'. 219 

small elementary Grammar, which she had just com- 
menced, and in which she had one lesson of half an 
hour weekly; one church Catechism, and one re- 
ligious Reader of the year 1796, which had been 
used by her mother, and was her grandmother's 
favorite book. They had not more than half a dozen, 
all told. She could write a little, and liked it. Upon 
further mquiry, we were told that the children were 
questioned about home matters, — a sort of initia- 
tory confession, — that they S23ent the greater part 
of the school hours — the girls at least — with the 
Catechism and sewing. The child said she should 
like to read if she had some other books, and was 
quite delighted to learn to add numbers. Kow, there 
must be some political reason why the children of 
the poorer classes in Rome are kept in ignorance, 
with the semblance of school instruction. What is 
that reason ? Those who go to Rome to attend soi- 
rees, be introduced to cardinals and princes, and be 
blessed by the pope, cannot answer; they are not ex- 
pected to know or care. But those who mix with the 
jDeople ; who sympathize in their tales of sorrow and 
oppression ; who feel the air around the Castle of St. 
Angelo reverberating with the sighs and groans of 
the prisoners in its dungeons, — those, we say, can 
imagine why; and those who understand the ma- 
chinery which supports the papal power, and know 



220 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

how the wires pull, — they know the why; O, yes! 
they could tell if they would. 

How many Roman people — men and women — ex- 
pressed their longing to go to America! A woman 
offered to work out her passage, and serve us, if we 
would but take her ; even a monk — an intelligent, 
fine-looking young man — expressed his desire to go 
to America, the great country of which he had read 
and dreamed so much. 

We had been told to distrust the Italians ; that 
they would cheat, and lie, and steal ; but we did not 
find it so. In the stores they asked as much as they 
dared, perhaps double the actual worth of their goods ; 
but when they found that we knew, and were willing 
to 23ay, vs^hat was right, they did us justice: like our 
landlady in Florence, they try to get the best of a 
bargain, but when once made they adhere to it. 

A friend of ours, who kept two or three servants, 
said that he had frequently dropped a piece of money 
in his room, and that it was always faithfully returned ; 
he was not afraid to trust his servants with anything, 
for he found them very trustworthy and proud of the 
confidence reposed in them. 

There is very little of the so-called Roman beauty 
to be seen in Rome, and very few (except those who 
sit on the steps of the Piazza di Spagna as models for 
artists) to be seen in Roman costume, now and then 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 221 

one ; for instance, a girl, with a dirty blue calico skirt, 
bright-red jacket, yellow scarf, and a quantity of 
dingy white cloth over her black hair ; and men, as 
seen in pictures, with round hats, red jackets, &g., 
all more or less dirty and ragged. 

The splendor of the churches, the gold, marble, 
mosaics, rich beyond description, fill you with aston- 
ishment and admiration ; but you cannot help asking, 
" Why should so much wealth lie dormant, and man, 
the true image of his Glod, stand in rags and tatters, 
begging for bread to keep life in his body, even where 
gold and precious stones reflect their beauty, though 
not their value, in his face ? " You admire the works 
of art, and turn away heart-sick at the degradation 
and misery of the people. 

An Italian woman, who had lived in Rome many 
years, and who was heartily disgusted with what she 
called the oppression of the people, told us of a man 
who had dared to advance some liberal idea, after 
which he was no more to be seen. His wife and chil- 
dren sought for him among all their acquaintances, 
and finally went to the public authorities, who told 
her that he was cared for. " Poor woman ! " said 
our informant, "she knew too well how the 'father 
of his people ' cares for those who dare to think for 
themselves or oppose his will." 

A gentleman told us that almost all the strangers 



222 AN AMERICAN. WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

who were in Rome at that time were Americans ; he 
said that the Romans depended upon strangers — with- 
out them there would be no business. A young lady 
observed, " Would it not be for the good of Italy if 
foreigners would stay away a few years ? " We have 
no doubt that, in such an event, the people, pressed 
by necessity, would dare to rouse up and be free : the 
fire, which lies smouldering in ashes, Would burst 
forth, and men who now run after strangers to force 
the sale of a string of beads, or a breastpin, would 
stand forth and demand their rights — yea, pull down 
the props which support the leaning wall, and thus 
verify the saying that when it falls, Roman power 
will end. 

February 10th was spent in the Vatican ; the Sis- 
tine Chapel, where are the famous picture of the Last 
Judgment, by Michael Angelo, and the wonderfully 
beautiful, frescoed ceiling in Scripture history, which 
he is said to have painted in the short space of 
twenty-two months; and St. Peter's, where we after- 
wards went ao-ain and a2:ain. What a feast for the 
eyes! What harmony, grandeur, and simplicity com- 
bined ! It must be seen ; it may not be described. 

In the Doria Palace, said to be one of the grandest 
in Rome, are paintings, statues, frescoes, &c., and in 
some of the rooms yellow silk curtains, which give a 
peculiar softness of coloring when the sun shines. In 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 223 

one of the rooms is a bust of an English lady, named 
Talbot, who married a Doria. That alone was covered 
with a black veil. 

The air of the catacombs was not close and dis- 
agreeable, as we had anticipated. The monk who 
conducted us told us that they were about twenty- 
one miles in circumference; that an English family 
were lost there a few years previous, and had not 
been found. What a terrible death it must have 
been to die in such a place ! And yet it seems strange 
that they were lost, because there are many entrances, 
and guides who know their way about perfectly well. 

The Palace of the Caesars interested us exceedingly. 
In the part constructed by Nero are immense subter- 
ranean rooms and passages, splendid arches, broken 
statues, marble pillars, steps, busts, vases ; and amid 
these relics of the past, wild flowers spring up, cheering 
the heart of the observer with the idea of a newness 
of life and the perfection of beauty. 

A peculiar feeling of sadness comes over one in 
Rome, when he thinks of what Rome was, and sees 
what she is ; and this feeling is increased by a drive 
through the Appian Way, where ruins crowd upon 
you on either side. But you are in Rome ; your stay 
is short ; you must see as many of the wonders as you 
can ; you are impelled to go on as long as you can 
stand; and then, tired and weary, you sleep to dream 
of broken arches, falling pillars, and crumbling houses. 



224 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

February 15th was the beginning of Carnival. The 
pope had issued his mandate to this effect — that his 
good children should be orderly, and create no disturb- 
ance, and that no vehicles drawn by a single horse 
should go in the procession. It seemed that he in- 
tended to make them behave themselves, for he caused 
soldiers to be placed at every outlet from the Corso. 
The houses were ornamented with red and white. 
Pieces of tapestry and colored rugs hung from the 
windows facing it. Balconies were festooned, and 
looked prettily. The military made a fine display. 
People crowded the streets. Men cried out, " Con- 
lietti" (plaster and flour balls, resembling sugar-plums). 
Ladies in the balconies, masked and furnished with 
little tin scoops, shovelled the confetti on the crowd 
below. Many bouquets were thrown to the ladies. 
Cannon were fired, and lumbering, closed carriages, 
much gilded, and decorated with red and purple silk and 
velvet, bore the Roman senators, and were preceded by 
heralds in striped yellow and white garments. A few 
minutes before the close of the show, a few young 
horses ran the length of the Corso, about five minutes, 
and the one which first reached the goal bore off the 
prize. There was something attached to the horses 
which pricked and frightened them as they ran. Poor 
animals ! that they must be tortured and frightened to 
give pleasure to civilized people of the nineteenth cen- 
tury! 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 225 

The Romans complained of the meanness and mea- 
greness of the Carnival. Very few participated in it, 
and it was said that " but for the Americans, servants, 
and French soldiers, it would have been a failure. The 
pope needed not to have troubled himself about the 
vehicles, so few appeared." They prophesied that it 
was about the last of the Carnivals. 

Although we go in heartily for a good time, we 
could not understand what pleasure our American sis- 
ters could take in throwing confetti upon persons 
to whom they would scarcely speak on ordinary occa- 
sions, and how they could receive bouquet upon bou- 
quet from them with smiles and friendly gestures. 
The bouquets were superb and abundant. We counted 
twenty large, and more small ones, thrown into the 
balcony of one window. 

Some remarks upon the oppression of the Jews in 
Rome, and their being obliged to pay a great part of 
the exiDcnses of the Carnival, led us to visit their quar- 
ters, and inquire about them. Subsequently we gained 
the following information, viz., 1. That they still inhabit 
the quarter assigned them by Pope Paul IV. in the 
middle of the sixteenth century ; that in 1847, being 
petitioned, Pius IX. allowed some of them to remove 
to the neighboring countries ; that said favor was pro- 
claimed to them from the criminal tribunal. 2. That, 
in all that pertains to their religion and exceptional 
15. 



226 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

State, they are under the immediate jurisdiction of the 
supreme Inquisition. 3. They are not allowed to 
bear witness in any civil matter against a Christian. 
4. They are forbidden to own real estate, even as 
guardians for women and children, within the quarter 
assigned them by Paul IV., which, for the most part, 
is owned by Catholic institutions and Catholics. 5. 
The being a Jew excludes him, by prescription of law, 
from almost all civil rights, and deprives him of a 
scientific, artistic, or literary career. He has no access 
to academy, college, or lyceum, and is only admitted 
to the Roman university by a special permission, and 
that by the medical faculty, after having proved him- 
self accomplished by means of private lessons from 
professors duly authorized. When prepared for his 
profession, the candidate is forbidden to practise 
among Christians, notwithstanding that Sextus V. 
modified that law admitting Jewish physicians in 
perilous times into the pontifical court, and even into 
the presence of the pope. One of the most celebrated 
of these was the Rabbi Samuel Sarfadi, physician to 
Pope Julius II. 

Recently a scholar, having completed his course and 
passed his examination very satisfactorily, received a 
diploma, but was foibidden to practise among Chris- 
tians, not only in Rome, but throughout all the Eccle- 
siastical States. In 1(S65 and 1866 an Israelitish youth 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. . 227 

was admitted to a course of mathematics in the uni- 
versity by a special favor of the sovereign pontiff. 6. 
In addition to the above, the Jew may not practise 
any art, nor have any profession ; so that he is absolute- 
ly reduced to obtain his living by trading. They are 
stigmatized as a nation of merchants. What else can 
they be in Rome ? » 

7. The Jewish poor are not admitted into any of 
the benevolent institutions of Rome, neither are they 
allowed to share in labors destined to alleviate misery. 
The reigning pontiff, in the first years of his pontifi- 
cate, granted an annuity of three hundred dollars for 
the relief of poor Israelites; but still they are forced 
either to collect and sell rags and old clothes to gain a 
scanty livelihood, or become a burden to their friends. 
The indigent poor who are succored by their friends, 
above and beyond the pope's favor of three hundred 
dollars, amount to twenty-two hundred, or about half 
the Jewish population. 

8. Notwithstanding their limited means of support, 
the Jews are forced to pay heavy taxes. 

These, and many other grievances, were told us by 
those whose want of means alone prevented their 
leaving a home of oppression, injustice, and injury. 

One day we undertook an omnibus rido to St. 
Paul's, outside the city wall. Said omnibus was a 
dirty, old, dilapidated thing, quite in keeping with the 



228 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

ruins of Rome ; its horses and driver also old. Inside 
the omnibus were four large baskets of charcoal, and 
a great quantity of bread, occupying passengers' places. 
We waited and waited, expecting them to set off every 
moment. It proved that they were not guided by 
time, as they had told us, but by their number of pas- 
sengers. Once started, we were at the church in half 
an hour. 

The outside of the church is plain and simple, the 
inside magnificent. There are eighty granite pillars ; the 
floor of polished marble, reflecting the brilliant colors 
of the painted figures in the windows; the portraits 
of all the jDopes, in medallions, five feet high ; colossal 
statues, in marble ; fine pictures ; old mosaics ; an altar, 
made of malachite, and trimmed with pure white mar- 
ble. This church, which has been but partially restored 
since it was burned in 1823, was in process of comple- 
tion, at the cost of millions of francs, and at a time 
when the pope complained of want of funds, and the 
poor of Rome were suffering for food. 

The church of the Jesuits, in its gaudy old silks and 
precious stones, reminded us of an old coquette, play- 
ing the agreeable in society. The Pantheon is grand 
and imposing in its simplicity. 

How out of place crosses look in the Coliseum ! I 
cannot see why they were put there, since there are a 
sufficient number of churches in the city. Coming out 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 229 

from the Barberini palace, we saw two young ladies 
offer the guide two sous, which he politely refused to 
accept. Said ladies were richly dressed. We pitied 
them that they had no better idea of the value of time 
than to offer a man two sous for half an hour spent in 
showing them about. 

The Quirinal garden, said to be very fine, was not 
to our taste ; we thought some things in it stiff and 
unsightly — the box, for instance, trained into the trees, 
and then cut to look like a wall of a house, with doors 
and windows. "You do not call that handsome?" 
observed a lady friend, in astonishment. " Can't help 
it ; it is not handsome to me." 

It seemed that many people thought they must find 
all beautiful that is so laid down in their guide-books. 
Miss Lewis, the colored artist, was at work upon a 
Hagar. Her Marriage of Hiawatha is small and 
handsome; she had sold several; wished she could 
afford to make Longfellow a j^resent of one. An Eng- 
lish lady was modelling in clay in her studio. 

We were told by a friend residing in Rome that 
a bishop from America lately brought two hundred 
thousand dollars as a present to the pope. A nice 
little present that. 

Another lady told me how happy she felt after 
having looked into the face of the dear old pope, and 
received his blessing. 



230 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

March 1st was rainy and disagreeable ; yet folks had 
their windows open, and many hung their heads out : 
more than once we have seen one or two standing at 
an open window, in nearly the same position, for an 
hour or two, without apparently moving. On our 
table were vases filled with anemones and various 
wild flowers, which we gathered in the Villa Doria 
Pamfili. By the by, one gets a fine view from those 
charming grounds. The villa was constructed by the 
order of Prince Camillo Pamfili, nephew of Innocent 
X. It is the largest and most delightful of the Roman 
villas. The Italians call it Belrespiro ; and well they 
may, for the air there is refreshing and invigorating. 

We had been in Rome about a month; had seen all 
the principal things which strangers see ; had been to 
the various villas and palaces, studios, churches, &g. ; 
had seen the cardinals, but not the pope, — and were 
now about to leave, with the feeling that we had seen 
everything and nothing, for it is utterly impossible to 
see so much, as it ought to be seen in so short a time ; 
one should spend years where we spent hours. And 
yet how many travellers feel prepared to give their 
opinion and criticise severely upon a passing glance I 
We heard the expression, " I've done up that," con- 
tinually, from people who were doing up all Europe in 
three months. And we heard some people complain 
of high prices and being cheated, while others, like 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 231 

ourselves found things about fair, and the people as 
honest as el ewhere, if not more so. Oranges were not 
so good, and more costly than in Florence ; the bread in 
general miserable ; wine excellent ; butter and cheese 
good, particularly the latter. 

Our last dinner in Rome consisted of macaroni 
pudding and roast chicken ; the pudding made of 
macaroni, mixed with the liver of fowls, chopped very 
fine, baked brown, and sugared over ; the chicken 
poor. 

We had a very affectionate leave-taking of our 
landlady, and the blessing of the old cigar man, whom 
we seldom patronized, but with whom we often had a 
chat at the door. 

' The Italians are very, very slow in their railroad 
movements. "Slow and sure" seemed to be their 
motto. Our travelling companions were a Prussian, 
who spoke Italian, French, and English with perfect 
facility, and two Italians, very pleasant gentlemen. 
-Xhe Prussian was nervous and uneasy. He became 
much excited in telling how he had been cheated ; said 
he bought twelve boxes of fancy bonbons, for which he 
paid a good price, and they were not fit to eat, only 
the confetti of the streets. 

Going out from Rome, we had a fine view of " Acqua 
Felice," and the tombs of the Appian Way, then castles 
on the tops of iTigh hills, villages on mountain sides. 



232 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

vegetation in some places very forward, flocks of 
sheep and goats, women working in the fields, olive 
trees in great abundance, horses and mules heavily 
laden with grain, vegetables, &c. ; farther on, villages 
very sparse, for miles and miles not a house to be seen. 
Crossed the Liri, which bounds the States of the 
Church. It was queer to hear Italians take a long 
breath, saying, " Now we are in Italy." At Isoletta our 
bags were taken out of our hands, and chalked ; they 
said, examined, although we did not see them open 
any. In this place we were beset by beggars, and dur- 
ing the few moments we waited in the cars, passengers 
amused themselves by throwing out one copper at a 
time, to see boys and girls fight for it : they rolled each 
other on the piles of stones which lined the railway, 
and beat and pommelled the one who had the copper ; 
some of the more persevering ones actually followed 
the cars for a considerable distance, shouting, " Datemi " 
— give me. 

The convents on the tojDs of high hills looked well for 
a picture, but quite forbidding to the lovers of society, 
they seemed so out of the world. The celebrated con- 
vent of Monte Cassino looked more like a castle than 
a convent. Near Mignano the country is^ bare and 
dreary; there we had dark clouds with rain on one 
side of us, and light clouds with sunshine on the other. 
There were multitudes of soldiers at Caserta, the Ver- 
sailles of Italy. 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 233 

March 2d. We were thankful enough to find our- 
selves in a second-class car on the way, when we saw 
them putting pans of hot water into the first. We sat 
with open windows, and were very warm. We had 
written to Hotel Geneve, at Naples, and were glad 
to find a man sent to take us ; our rooms were in 
readiness, and all went smoothly. Said hotel is the 
first of the second-class hotels, and in a much healthier 
locality than the first-class and more fashionable ones. 
Having heard a great deal about the trouble of getting 
to a hotel in Naples, we were agreeably disappointed ; 
then again of the entire want of cleanliness. Our 
hotel was as clean and nice as any other, as far as 
we could see. Certainly we had nothing to complain 
of in our room ; iron bedsteads, carpet, handsome 
white curtains, slop-pail (a luxury which had a charm 
to my eyes ; think of having water enough to pour 
into a pail, and have some left), easy-chair, bureau, 
sofa, chairs, wardrobe, &c., all clean and good. What 
jaiore does man or woman ask in a hotel where they 
expect to stay but a few days? 

Our first visit was to the Museum, where are large col- 
lections from Herculaneum and Pompeii, antique paint- 
ings, mosaics, bronzes, sculpture, Egyptian collections, 
collections of the middle ages, collections of glass, of 
terra cotta, of papyrus, of stamps ; a gallery of paint- 
ings (six rooms), library, where is a globe of the year 



234 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

1600, a hall of jewels, of moneys, of medallions ; eight 
rooms filled with Etruscan vases of all forms and sizes. 
We saw a man copying Spanish paintings very beau- 
tifully. Inquired the price of one head, life size ; only 
twenty francs ; I almost coveted it. Of course it took 
hours to see these things. On our way home we 
bought oranges (two for a cent), and excellent bread. 
From the balcony of one of our windows we could see 
Vesuvius puffing and smoking. Vesuvius formed one 
of the topics of conversation at the dinner-table, where 
were many Americans, who had " come down on pur- 
pose to see him." Some of them, who had been up 
the mountain, did not think the Vesuvius jaunt paid 
the trouble. There was a lively discussion of the 
merits of different hotels in different places, which in- 
terested the waiters who understood English. Some 
of the remarks we thought to be ill judged and ill 
timed. 

They told us of an Englishman who paid a porter 
half a franc for putting seven heavy trunks on his car- 
riage; the porter demurred at the smallness of the 
price, when the Englishman jumped out of the car- 
riage, saying, "I'll let you know that I am an Engfish 
officer ; " at which the porter decamped. They said that 
a gentleman, who had taken cold in the galleries of 
painting, and was suffering from rheumatism, swore 
that he would knock any one down who should say 
" fresco " to him after he got home. 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 235 

A part of the evening was spent in looking at Vesu- 
vius. 

The next day we drove to Capodimonte; the gar- 
den, open to the public, is very fine. The palace is 
extremely simple, neat, and handsome. The pictures 
are modern, and really do one's eyes good after having 
seen so many ancient ones ; they are very, very hand- 
some, though said to be nothing remarkable. Among 
them are several of Angelica Kauffmann. From thence 
we drove to St. Elmo, a fortified point, from which we 
obtained a charming view of the city and of Vesuvius, 
with its smoke wreathing against the clear blue sky. 

Coming down from the old castle, we saw the poorer 
class of Italians, outside their houses, cooking, sewing, 
knitting, washing and dressing children, combing hair, 
eating, &c., and some on donkeys, and others driving 
poor, miserable-looking little asses, holding on by their 
tails. 

_. We went through this part of the city several times 
afterwards, and saw that they all appeared to have 
something to do ; none, even the aged, were absolutely 
idle. Although many were clothed in rags, and chil- 
dren were half naked, they did not impress us with the 
feeling of wretchedness as the poor in Rome, for they 
looked bright and lively, talking, laughing, and singing, 
and making much more noise than was agreeable. 
Although they look good-natured and easy, they 



236 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE 

are terribly cruel to tlieir animals, judging by the 
looks of the poor creatures, with patches of raw 
flesh exposed to the air and sun, hair rough, tumbled, 
and dirty, as though their owners never had cleaned 
them. Besides their being blind, lame, and apparently 
half starved, they were heavily laden, unmercifully 
driven and beaten ; if anything is done for them, it is 
to bleed them for every ailment. Women and boys 
carried live poultry by the legs, swinging them and 
knocking their heads, perfectly unconcerned. Of laz- 
zaroni we saw. none ; they said that there were none 
nowadays. 

March bth. We went into a church well filled with 
jDeople ; were told that the Neapolitans are much more 
devout than the Romans; and it seemed so, for we went 
into another " Gesu Nuovo," where an energetic Jesuit 
was preaching, with much gesticulation, to a crowded 
audience. We could hardly get a standing-place near 
enough to hear what was said. There are fine pieces 
of statuary in the Chapel of St. Severo; among them 
is a man in a net, which is so perfect that you almost 
wonder what makes the rope so white ; also a woman 
covered by a veil, and a body under muslin, both mas- 
terpieces of art. After going into Santa Chiara, which 
was profusely ornamented and gilded, showy and 
gaudy, we did not care to see more of the three hun- 
dred churches in the city. 



AN AMEKICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 237 

We drove to where the slide was ; an officer refused 
to admit us through the temporary gate, but our coach- 
man obtained a permit for us, and we went in. An 
Italian gentleman told us that they had demolished, 
the palace on the top of the hill, and closed the road 
leading to it, on account of its weight. There were 
hundreds of men at work walling up the side of the 
hill; but it looked dangerous, and in all probability the 
joressure of the crumbling particles of the hill will 
break away any wall they may build. I, for one, 
would not risk living at the foot of that hill, as much 
as I should enjoy the sight of the bay in front of it. 

Many of the streets are very narrow and very steep ; 
the narrow one-horse carriages can scarcely pass each 
other in them. The driver we had (the day we took 
to look into the by-ways and out-of-the-way places) was 
an exception to the cruel ones; he got down from his 
box, and helped the horse pull up the steep little streets. 

The Campo Santo is a pleasant resting-place, kept in 
very nice order. There are beautiful tombs, statues, 
and flowers ; alleys shaded by the tall cypress, laurus- 
tinus, with their rich clusters of flowers, roses, lilies, 
&c., all tastefully arranged. Methinks one might sleep 
sweetly in such a lovely spot! We had a splendid 
view of Mount Vesuvius and the bay from this burial- 
ground, where we lingered a long while. 

Returning to the city, we passed small wagons 



238 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

crowded with men and women, and drawn by poor- 
looking horses ; also asses, with panniers. The people 
appeared to be going from market, and better able to 
walk than their animals were to carry them. The 
manner of raising water for the cattle and fields looked 
odd ; a wheel turned by a horse poured the water into 
a kind of stone reservoir, at which cattle drank, and 
from which water was taken in casks to irriojate the 
fields. How apt we are to censure people for not 
doing thus and so I yet, after all, we know not their 
object nor their necessities. 

Of all the noisy people, these Neapolitans were the 
noisiest we ever heard, and drivers seemed to take even 
more delight in cracking their whips than those in 
Paris. 

March ^th. The guns were firing and people 
running. Farragut expected ! On the next day we 
made an excursion party, hiring carriages and men at 
the hotel. They put up a basket of provisions and 
wine for us, and guides took seats on each coach-box. 
At times the ride along the Chiaia is not pleasant, 
owing to the imperfect drainage and deposits in the 
bay by its side ; however, it is the fashionable street, 
and the first class hotels are there. It commands a 
fine view of the bay — a great attraction to strangers. 
We enjoyed it as we rode along. Virgil's tomb was 
pointed out near the entrance of the Grotto of Pau- 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 239 

silippe, a long, dismal, dark road, cut under, or rather 
through, a hill; it is lighted by lamps which cast a 
lurid shade ou the pedestrians who are continually 
passing through. The air is bad, and on the whole, 
tljat part of the drive was rather disagreeable than 
otherwise. Some of the company went into the 
Grotto del Cane, while others waited for them by 
Lake Agnano. The guide said the lake was three 
quarters of a mile in circumference, in ancient times a 
crater. He showed us the Stufe of San German, two 
low brick buildiugs, where they get sulphuric vapor for 
the hospitals. The whole region of the lake is sad and 
gloomy, and the stillness rendered made more notice- 
able in contradistinction to the bustle and noise of the 
crowded streets of Naples, which we had just left. 
Smelling the sulphur, and seeing the steam issue from 
the Stufe, you feel as if there must be a good fire 
underneath to keep the pot boiling ; perhaps the idea 
of " a lake of burning brimstone and fire," originated 
with people living among volcanoes. Monte Nuovo, 
which rose from the sea in three days, is a nice, green 
mountain, and looks as if it had as firm a base as any 
of its neighbors. 

At Pozzuoli we left our carriages, and climbed up a 
considerable height to see the amphitheatre, with its 
columns, steps, arenas, &c. — a coliseum on a smaller 
scale than that at Rome. A guide showed us a picture 



240 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

of St. Janvier, and told us a long yarn about the saint, 
which was gospel truth to him. From the amphithea- 
tre we had a fine view of the coast of Misena opposite. 
There are several other ruins not yet dug out. . '**■"• 
Solfatara, what a place ! where smoke and sulphur 
steam ooze from the earth at different points, and you 
hear a rumbling as of the boiling sulphur. I sat listen- 
ing to a guide w^hile the rest of the party went to a 
small, burning crater near by, and brought awfiy pieces 
of brimstone which they took from it. All around was 
dry and barren ; but the heath grew there, looking as 
pretty and contented as if in a more propitious soil. 
There were buildings on the spot where they formerly 
worked sulphur, and afterwards made lime from the 
material which abounds there, as the guide said. I 
saw a few men at work, but could not in^gine by their 
slow movements that any great business was carried 
on. Lake Lucrine, which was famed for oysters in 
olden times, now furnishes the fish called spigola, 
highly esteemed in Naples. Having been told that 
the grottos were damp, cool,- dark places, and not feel- 
ing particularly anxious to risk taking cold and having 
Naples fever, I sat in the carriage while the party went 
into the Grotto della Sibylla. I was assailed by a 
beggar woman, with a party of plump, healthy, savage- 
looking children. She began with the usual "For 
God's sake, lady," and went on with a long story, 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 241 

which, considering her gesticulations and rough ap- 
pearance, and the lonely, out-of-the-way place in which 
I was, I thought best not to understand; so I sat 
quietly until my patience was exhausted, and then I 
said, " I have nothing " (which was the truth, for I had 
already exhausted my coppers, and my purse was in 
the pocket of the absent one) ; at which she broke out 
in abusive and derisive language, so that I was obliged 
to call the coachman to rid me of her. Then came a 
boy of about ten years, a most comical genius, with 
painted mustache, smiling face, and sparkling eyes. 
He was well dressed, and very handsome. 

"Datemi, signora." 

I paid no attention : then he went on with, " Datemi, 
madmesel, Datemi, misses, Datemi, frau. Don't you 
see my fine mustache? I have a poor family. Only 
a few cents," &c., accompanying his words with 
somersaults, leaping, walking on one foot, bowing, and 
gesticulating. 

At a short distance men were at work in making 
a canal to connect this lake with that of Agnano, as 
it was before the eruption which threw up Mount 
Nuovo. 

We passed the Baths of Nero, a long, dark gallery 
out in the rock, where are boiling springs. 

Nothing can be more striking than the masses of 
ruins all along the mountain side, near Baia. Here 
16 



242 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

arched door-ways, tliere the whole side of a room ; 
here a window, there a bit of projecting pillar. In- 
deed, the whole range of hills is one mass of ruins, 
covered with earth and verdure. The guides led us 
into the Temple of Venus, and showed us those of 
Diana, Minerva, and some others. The villa of Julius 
Caesar stands high, commands a fine view, and covers 
much ground. At Baia we ate our luncheon, sitting 
in the carriages, were beset with beggars and lively 
children. One girl, after having done all that she could 
to force us to give her money, ran into a garden, and, 
selecting fine, large lemons, she succeeded in making a 
sale. I offered a boy, who begged, a bit of roast chicken, 
which he refused with a look of scorn, saying he 
wanted money. 

We saw the Mare Morto (Sea of Death), so called 
from the carrying the dead over its waters in order to 
burn them for the Columbarium, which was pointed 
out to us, as well as the Piscina Mirabilis, a reservoir 
at the end of the Julian Aqueduct. Its forty-eight 
pillars are in perfect preservation. 

Coining from Pozzuoli, we went into the Temple of 
Serapis to see the marble columns, some of which 
have been injured while under water, by a species of 
raoUusks, the lower part of the ruins being submerged. 
It was quite wet where we stood. They said it was a 
good place to take observations on the level of the sea. 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 243 

Our ride to the above places was extremely 
23leasant. The weather was just right for such an 
excursion — neither hot nor cold. Our horses were 
good, carriages easy, guides polite and gentlemanly, 
speaking both French and Italian, and there were 
no lashing and cracking of whips. Returning, how- 
ever, it clouded, and threatened rain ; and one would 
have thought it the fault of the poor horses, the way 
they drove, and kept the whips in a continual flourish 
— unfortunate animals, which have to pay for all that 
happens! Southernwood, lupines, prickly pears, the 
century plant, marigolds, and what looked in the dis- 
tance like stock-gillies, grew profusedly in the fields 
and upon the rocks — the stock-gilly, like the wall- 
flower, from the old walls and ruins. We carried 
home .bunches of heath and sweet-scented violets, 
which the guides had gathered for us. 

When near the hotel, a man ran after us with 
bouquets. We bought one containing from thirty to 
forty japonicas — pink, white, and mottled; a large 
number of the tea-rose buds, mignonette, violets, and 
delicate green sprays for ten cents. It was all he 
asked. The expense of the pleasant and instructive 
trip being divided among the party, the share of each 
was comparatively small. 

March %th. We rose early, and prepared for an 
excui'sion to Pompeii. Hired one of those narrow 



244 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

carriages (carrozzella), and a most nncomfoi'table rule 
we had of it. Went through Portici, Resiua, and 
Annunziata, havhig a splendid view of Vesuvius. 
From the last-named place we could see the sulphur 
near its cone very distinctly. But the road was so 
shockingly bad as to take away half our pleasure. 
The color of the road would lead one to suppose that 
it had been paved, and the pavements ground to 
powder by long usage. It was jounce, jounce, up and 
down. The wind blew hard, and the sun shone bright- 
ly. The view of the bay was all that heart could 
wish. The Corso Garibaldi is handsome. Portici 
contains many palaces and villas; is a beautiful town. 
Our driver seemed to be a tricky fellow ; said he knew 
the way, but drove us in a wrong direction. Then at 
the gate of Pompeii he wanted us to go on farther, 
and, when we were ready to leave, we had to hire a 
man to hunt him up. Almost at every step within the 
walls you met a guard. They say that the English 
were in the habit of carrying away so much that they 
take these means to put a stop to it. The guard are 
polite and attentive ; not allowed to accept any money 
from visitors. It would take much time to tell what 
we saw. The printed descriptions of Pompeii, in 
general, answer very w^ell, although it did not appear 
BO sombre as we had been led to expect, and I should 
have liked to remain longer. As it was, it was a day 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 245 

never to be forgotten. We met some of Farragut's 
men, one of whom seemed to think it did not pay for 
the trouble of coming to see it, it v/as so like what 
you read about it ; we thought otherwise, however. 

In the evening we went to Teatro St. Carlo, said to 
be capable of seating three thousand five hundred per- 
sons ; it did not appear so very large, although there 
are six tiers of boxes, one above the other, stiff, and set 
with their gilt ornaments, all alike from top to bottom. 
The royal box, however, is quite a fine affair. We had 
expected to see a very handsome theatre, and were dis- 
appointed in that, although it is said to be superb, and 
more so in the opera RigoUetto, which was not well 
given, the singing nothing extra, dancing stiff; decora- 
tions were the best of it. 

Naples contains about five hundred thousand inhab- 
itants. It has very few handsome buildings, and is far 
from being a healthy city. The great attraction which 
draws people to Naples is the bay, with its ever-chan- 
ging beauty. There is an exuberance of life among the 
people not to be found in Rome, and they seem anx- 
ious to work. The beggars are, as we were told, com- 
paratively few in proportion to the number of inhabit- 
ants. One thing is certain : progress is at work, and 
in the course of a few years we shall find still greater 
improvement in the condition of the people. When 
they can depend on their own labor for support, and 



246 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

can enjoy tlie fi'iiits of their industry, then poverty, 
misery, theft, and beggary will all die a natural death. 

March Wi. Our second-class car to Castlemare was 
very good and very clean. Arrived, we were perfectly 
beset by drivers and facchinos, and obliged to hold our 
bags firmly to prevent their being taken from us by force. 
The turmoil, confusion, and noise are indescribable; 
parties were separated, women anxious, children cry- 
ing, men screaming; finally the police interfered, and 
we were enabled to arrange with the drivers. A party 
of five agreed to pay seven francs for a good carriage 
and span to Sorento ; we two agreed to pay five francs 
for one of the small carriages with one horse. Our 
driver, a fine-looking young man, drove as if possessed 
by an evil spirit ; the tipping of the vehicle, going over 
stones, hitting another carriage, did not trouble him 
any more than our remonstrances. On he went at full 
speed, to the imminent risk of breaking our necks. 

At the break in the road where we were to take a 
boat, he demanded his money, saying that he did not 
agree to carry us farther. After some parley, he evi- 
dently concluded that we knew what we were about, 
and prepared to go into a boat with us. 

We were some feet above the water, and had to 
scramble down over the rocks as best we could ; the 
small boats dancing on the waves, at some distance 
from the shore, looked anything but inviting. Then 



AN AMEEICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 247 

commenced a new squabble as to which boatman should 
secure passengers. Poor fellows ! it was their harvest 
time, and they were over-anxious to reap it. These 
were what they considered the rich foreigners, who 
would pay them more for an hour's boat ride than they 
ordinarily gained in a whole day by fishing. Why 
should they not take advantage of the opportunity ? 
Happily for the strangers, the police were on hand to 
regulate the prices. As soon as we had selected our 
boat, I allowed them to carry me into it. A huge wave 
dashed against the shore. The instant it rolled back, 
two men carried their burden through the water to the 
boat, and so on, back and forth, until the boats were 
filled. Being the first in a boat, I had a grand rock- 
ing in that water which I had so often admired in its 
placid beauty, before our man, desirous to get as many 
as he could, was ready to put ofi*. In our boat were a 
priest, a jolly soul ; a sea captain, very communicative ; 
and one Italian gentleman, besides our coachman and 
the three seamen. The sea was very rough, and 
the rowing extremely difficult; yet they tugged away as 
if their life depended upon getting to land before the 
other boats. It required a full hour to make a short 
distance, working, as they did, with all their might. 
They earned their money "by the sweat of their 
brow," for the perspiration pearled their brown fore- 
heads, and ran trickling down their cheeks. 



248 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

" Are you not delighted that we beat the other 
boats?" said the head man, addressing us; "I did it 
to give you pleasure." 

We paid more than we agreed to, which gave him 
more pleasure than his extra labor afforded us. We 
always felt more comfortably at parting with this kind 
of people when we took their blessing with us. 

The next thing was to climb a rough, steep way, to 
get to the road far above us, where our coachman put 
us in a carriage, as per agreement, and returned to the 
boat. 

The road winds along the mountain, and is very 
smooth and hard ; we might have had a delightful ride, 
bad not the driver, a good-natured, trig-looking fellow, 
been in for a race ; we begged him not to whip his 
horse, and not to go so fast, but it was of no use. He 
would turn round smiling, and say, " Si, signori, molto 
piano " (Yes, very gently), go at a decent jog for a 
few minutes, then crack his whip, and hurry on. The 
poor little horse was doomed not only to race with car- 
riages, but with everything which came along ; the way 
we whizzed around the angles in the road was fright- 
ful. We had no chance to see beautiful Vico, through 
which we passed. 

Finding the Hotel Tramontana very expensive, we 
went to the Hotel Roma, where they gave us a large 
and comfortable room, in which we were thankful to 
ensconce ourselves. 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 249 

On the morrow we arranged w4tli the landlord to 
give us full board, including fire, service, and lights, for 
six francs per day each. Our dinners were excellent; 
the mutton, cheese, apples, and wine were delicious. 

The house was extremely clean and orderly : the land- 
lady, an English woman, knew just what was needed 
for one's comfort. 

There were three American ladies in the house, and 
we had a parlor in common, with an open fireplace 
and a good fire. They came from the Tramontana, where 
they had paid much more for less comfort and conven- 
ience ; they spoke highly of the Roma, and were per- 
fectly satisfied. 

There was a great demand for Sorento wood- work, 
and many persons were employed in the factories. We 
saw splendid specimens, among them the piece intended 
for a wedding present to the hereditary prince of Ita- 
ly, Umberto. It was the gift of the city of Turin, and 
cost five thousand francs. It was a very complicate 
and elaborate piece of work — a sort of box, which 
opened into various forms and conveniences, jewel-box, 
sewing-box, writing-desk, cigar and tobacco cases, toilet- 
table, music-stand, drawers, &c., the whole inlaid with 
pictures and bordered with tiny bits of colored wood. 

It was very handsome and very ingenious, but, as far 
as I could judge, much too delicate to be of practical 
use. There was a similar box in another store, not so 



250 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

handsome, and less elaborate ; it was sold to an Amer- 
ican for three thousand francs. 

The cutting was simple enough ; a pattern, drawn 
on paper, was pasted on the wood, and then sawed 
and cut through very carefully on the lines of the 
drawing, with small, sharp instruments. The piece 
which was cut out was often painted and reinserted ; 
many boys were occupied in cutting. 

In one of the very small stores, where they had 
scarfs for sale, a woman sat in one corner weaving 
them ; she told us that she sat there all day long, and 
every day. She looked sallow and bloated; com- 
plained of ill health. Her husband and son stood 
smoking, or gaping at the passers-by, w^hile she did 
the actual labor which gained their subsistence. She 
worked rapidly, and had great facility in arranging 
colors. Their whole stock in trade was packed in 
some dozen rather small-sized wooden boxes. 

On one side of the town is an immense gorge, from 
which stones for building are brought up; a long, 
narrow, winding path leads down to the stones, some 
six or eight of which are fastened to the body of a 
horse or ass, which, guided by a man, goes slowly and 
patiently up. In this way, many men and animals are 
employed the whole day in bringing up as many stones 
as might be raised in half an hour with one small 
steam engine. Their manner of digging cellars was 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 251 

almost ludicrous : two or three men slowly shovelled 
a peck, or so, of earth into a basket, which a woman 
put upon her head, and carried away at a snail's pace. 
All the labor that we observed was performed in the 
same stupid manner ; even the town bells were rung 
by hand, not by rope. 

Entering a lane, which led through an orange 
grove, we were followed by a child, with an infant 
in her arms, and a dog ; w^e supposed, it was to see 
that we did not touch the fruit, or to try to sell us 
some. Orange and lemon trees in fruit, interspersed 
with almond and peach trees in blossom, are very pleas- 
ing to the eye ; but a grove of orange or lemon trees 
alone is by no rnear^^ so handsome as an apple orchard 
in blossom. Ye poets, who write of the orange groves, 
which ye have never seen, marvel at my taste ! 

A lady, speaking of the gorges, which she found 
frightful, though picturesque, said that she felt all the 
time as if the earth would crack somewhere else, and 
make another one. Every step she took was insecure 
to her ; she should be glad to get out of that " infernal 
region." Another lady thought "Sorento might be 
compared to a great fungus." 

Our evenings were spent very pleasantly in the 
parlor, where a good wood fire rendered the stone 
floor and walls tolerable. Vesuvius was in front of 
our windows, bulging, smoking, and burning; and 



252 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

when the sky was dark, the lava on the sides glowed 
brilliantly. Then it put on its fiery cap, and made a 
great show. 

We were a mixture of nations in that small party — 
one Irish, one Scotch, one German, and one Italian 
gentleman, and four American ladies; the Irish gen- 
tleman kept all in a roar of laughter with his national 
stories. 

One evening we undertook to pay a visit to friends 
at the Tramontana, but found the streets so dark and 
2)okerish, that we gave it up and turned back. The 
landlord was sorry ; said if he had known that we 
wished to go out, he would have sent a servant with 
a lantern to escort us. 

March Wth. Victor Emanuel's birthday. Flags 
flying from the barracks; military parade. A party 
of us hired asses, and rode to Massa, a distance of 
three miles. The weather was fine, road good, com- 
pany agreeable, view charming; the Island of Capri 
smiled invitingly in the sunshine, and the water looked 
as smooth as a mirror. I preferred sitting at the door 
of a cafe, in Massa, talking with the people, and see- 
ing the fishermen and soldiers, to going over a poor by- 
road leading to a higher point. An Italian discussed 
American politics very sensibly ; he was quite ear- 
nest in America's welfare. The padrona of the estab- 
lishment said she had never seen but one American 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 253 

before me, and she was black. The poor woman 
seemed confounded with the idea of white Americans. 

The doors and windows of a building, near the 
cafe, occupied by four hundred soldiers, were taste- 
fully decorated with red, white, green, and gold. 
The military band, paraded before the door, played 
well. 

On the return of the party, I asked for lemonade, — 
lemons fresh from the trees were easily obtained, — but 
the keeper of the establishment, being out of sugar, 
had to run through the village to get some, and we, 
in the mean time, were entertained by beggars and chil- 
dren — some in clean calico frocks, but more in rags 
and tatters : the old women were the most importu- 
nate. Some of the children are handsome ; the young 
men, as in Naples, many of them models of beauty ; 
women, in general, are rather coarse and ordinary, 
and their voices, particularly those who cry their wares 
in the streets, are very rough, harsh, and disagreeable. 

Vico Equensis was described to us as a little Para- 
dise : it is a lovely spot, sloping down to the water, 
its white houses, olive, orange, almond, and fig trees 
in abundance, fascinate the eye of the beholder, espe- 
cially when seen from the bay. 

March Ibth. What a sunset! How glorious! The 
clouds, soft and fleecy, waving above the mountain- 
tops, and forming fantastic head-dresses of orange, red, 



254 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

tender purple, violet, pink, and that peculiar gold 
color, which must have originated the idea that 
" heaven is paved with gold." We gazed admiringly 
at the soft, rich colors; and, as we gazed, the sea and 
all around were enveloped, as it were, in a delicate- 
colored tissue of varied hues. The transition was 
so sudden we thought it a dream. Could it be natural 
drapery, or was it only the workings of imagination ? 
The darker colors took the place of these varied tints, 
bidding adieu to the sun. Ashes of roses, pearl, lav- 
ender, all the shades of slate and neutral tints, softly 
blended, cast a quiet and holy feeling over us. 

We stood behind the high wall which borders the 
well-built road, high up on the rocky coast, and looked 
down below to the fishermen's houses ; the jutting 
points or little quays ; the boats laden with lemons 
and oranges ; the men and women rocking on the 
clear blue water ; Vesuvius looking grimly upon miles 
of country, and threatening at some future day to lay 
their pleasant gardens waste, and change the form of 
all within its sway. There are villages covering the 
hill-sides, and churches and convents overlooking the 
whole panorama. 

March Vlth. An excursion to Paestura was on foot. 
"Shall we join the party?" was the question. "I 
went," said Mrs. B., " and had a horrid time. We had 
to go over a shallow river, where there used to be a 



AN AMEEICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 255 

bridge ; it broke clown some four or five years ago. 
Now the carriages have to descend a steep, narrow 
road to the water's edge, where they pitch and tumble 
to get on board an old sort of ferry, drawn from side 
to side by ropes, and capable of carrying only one 
wagon at a time. As there is much travel, and all are 
anxious to get over, there is a continued fighting and 
screaming among the drivers, and it is no uncommon 
thing to break shafts, tip over, and the like, and all 
this trouble because the people have not energy enough 
to build another bridge." 

" I do not feel strong enough to put that through ; 
I will remain here," I said. 

" And I will go," said another, " and meet you at 
Naples." 

I was feeling enervated — what we call, at home, 
spring-like. I had no appetite, no energy. The 
waiter at table reported that I did not eat ; and the 
host, who seldom appeared in the dining-room, brought 
me what he considered a tonic — a dish of pickles, 
cucumbers, onions, peppers, &c., surmounted by sar- 
dines in festoons. It was carefully and tastefully 
arranged. The good man was disappointed because 
I could not eat it. Then he brought me a sort of 
marmalade of bitter- orange peel, which was even less 
tempting. After that he procured a mackerel, which 
he cooked in his best style. 



256 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

Next day I felt no better, but mustered up courage 
to go to Naples. Hired a two-horse team for Castel- 
lamare, at five francs. Took a young man from the 
hotel for company ; bade adieu to the kind people, and 
to Sorento, famed for its healthy climate, luxuriant 
vegetation, and for being the birthplace of Tasso. 
The road was sufficiently repaired, at the point where 
the slide had been, to enable a carriage to pass. The 
sight of the overhanging rocks and earth, ready to fall 
at any moment, filled us with awe. I could but think 
of the insignificance of godlike man in presence of 
great Nature's works. One jar of an earthquake, and 
the rocks crumble and fall in spite of the high w^alls he 
has built and the firmness of his roads. There were 
many points on this route where danger stared the 
traveller in the face, and this was one. The Castella- 
mare dej^ot, built of stone, was miserably cold, shut 
up as it was from the air and sun ; so I took a chair and 
sat outside, where I was tormented by beggars until I 
almost fancied myself a molasses-pot beset by fli6s. 
A banker in the car complained bitterly of the ill treat- 
ment and injustice of railroad directors and their par- 
tiality to foreigners, because they would not give him 
change. We had learned by experience not to expect 
change when buying tickets. Where the public are 
notified to that eftect, it is all right ; but where there is 
no means of knowing, it seems to us very unjust. It 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 257 

was fair-day in Naples, and the streets were so crowded 
that it was almost impossible to drive to the hotel. I 
could think of nothing but Boston Common, Fourth 
of July evening, when there are fireworks, and the 
possibility of driving through such a crowd. That 
evening I went to bed sick, and ahiiost frightened my- 
self into a Naples fever. There was a violent thunder 
shower, and a disagreeable odor in the room. We 
complained — asked for another room higher up. The 
landlord said the odor was caused by the rain ; it was 
always so, and less in his house then in those hearer 
the water; it would soon pass off. The house was 
full, and the room we had at first, had been taken in 
our absence. 

Dr. Izzi came to see me; ordered lemonade, cool- 
ing drinks, tapioca soup, &c. ; ajjproved of our way 
of living ; said that English and Americans, in gen- 
eral, made a great mistake in eating too much meat; 
they should adapt themselves to the climate, and, while 
in Italy, live as Italians did. 

March 22c?. Sunday we walked out; saw women 
fighting in the street. The police and a crowd gathered 
round, and after a while succeeded in separating them. 
However, one stout, athletic young woman seemed 
determined to give some one a drubbing. She at- 
tacked the officers, knocking them right and left, then 
ran after other victims. 
17 



258 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

The gymnasts were drilling in front of the palace. 
Among them were a number of boys of about ten 
years. Their guns appeared too heavy for them. 

The steamer in which we were to sail for Genoa left 
at one o'clock. Neither vessel nor captain looked 
prepossessing, the former being small and dirty, the 
latter looking gruff and taciturn. But the sky was 
clear, air refreshing, sea calm, and the view such as can 
be seen only in the Bay of Naples, with its harbor, 
fortresses, palaces, islands, Procida, Ischia, Capri. 
Sorento and Vico smiled a sweet farewell, and Ve- 
suvius stood out clear and well defined, as if for our 
special benefit. At five o'clock we had a good dinner, 
and the best of it was the green sweet peas flavored 
with red peppers. The captain proved to be a kind- 
hearted and sociable man, and we soon became friends. 
Prudence dictated our taking tickets to Civita Vecchia, 
whence we could go to Genoa if we liked. The stew- 
ard tried to jDersuade us that we should have fine 
weather, and that it would be to our advantage to 
agree to go to Genoa at once. Told us that we could 
have anything we wished ; but we adhered to our own 
plan in spite of his arguments. 

The sun set gloriously, and the stars never looked 
brighter; the sea was calm, and the vessel went 
steadily and rapidly on, with her sails partly spread. 
A young Italian, lawyer and author, recited poetry, 



AN" AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 259 

and kept us company on deck until it was time to 
go to rest. Ah me ! what a place we had to sleep in ! 
The first cabin of the French passenger steamer fur- 
nished neither water, bowl, nor mirror, and the beds 
were poor enough, set aside the want of neatness and 
order. 

At seven next morning we found ourselves in the 
port of Civita Vecchia, and in the midst of boats, 
steamers, and war vessels. Boats came alongside 
with provisions to sell ; the steward bought a great 
quantity of large, handsome sea-urchins ; among them 
was a star-fish of a brilliant red color. 

Curiosity prompted us to see what the steerage pas- 
sengers were having for breakfast, as they seemed to 
be eating with a good relish ; it was bread, leeks, and 
radishes, with which they had furnished themselves; 
they had nothing to drink. All were strong and 
healthy-looking men and women. The sailors were^ 
cutting open the sea-urchins alive, and dipping their 
bread into the shell, after having poured out a part of its 
liquid contents. At ten we had breakfast in the cabin, 
viz., raw sea-urchins (said to taste very much like lob- 
ster), oysters (little, mean, bad-tasted things, not worth 
the trouble of opening), fried pouts, and other smaller 
fish, bread in a sort of fish chowder (not quite so good 
as milk toast), wine, coffee, butter, cheese, beefsteak, 
radishes, fiocchi (fennel-root), &c. What a difference 



260 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

between the breakfast of cabin and steerage passen- 
gers ! No doubt the more frugal was the healthier. 

The captain informed us that he could not sail until 
he received the mail ; did not expect it before two 
o'clock. We were not sorry, for the day was fine, and 
there was much going on to interest us. Regiments 
of French troops, and cavalry with their horses, were 
embarking ; they went in small boats, and were towed 
to the large steamer by steam tugs. 

Our gentlemen could not go on shore, as they de- 
sired, without a sj^ecial permission, and that required 
too much time. An American vessel lay near us, but 
we were not allowed to visit her. 

Quite a number of prisoners were being conducted 
to the galleys : the captain said their feet were chained, 
and balls of iron attached to the ankle. 

After we had concluded to go on to Leghorn, we 
saw, by the nautical establishment near the wharf, that 
the barometer indicated " tempo variabile." However, 
it was too late to go on shore, and too late for the 
cars; so we resolved to make the most of the fine 
weather while it lasted, and take observation of what 
was going on around us. 

The monks, in a house within sight, seemed to lead 
a pleasant life, enjoying the air from their balconies; 
reading, smoking, sipping wine and coffee, and water- 
ing plants, which looked as though well cared for. 



AlSr AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 261 

At two, other passengers came on board : two Eng- 
lish gentlemen, one Italian family, father, mother, and 
daughter; they brought a canary, which sang merrily; 
several steerage passengers. The agents fussed a long 
time : as soon as they left, we set sail. The towns and 
villages scattered along the coast looked pleasant, 
though not to be compared to lovely Procida, with its 
fine palaces and gardens on the head of the island. 
Before long the wind changed to north, and the sky, 
which had smiled so sweetly, began to frown. 

At five o'clock I took ray dinner alone, on deck. 
When they brought live pigeons on board in the morn- 
ing, and tortured them so unmercifully, I thought I 
could not eat of them ; yet, strange to say, I made my 
dinner of those same pigeons. It was cold, and the 
weather beginning to be very disagreeable, the hot 
coffee which followed the dinner was very acceptable. 

We all sat huddled up together, muffled in our rugs 
and shawls ; the stars looked pale and cold ; one Italian 
tried to sing, another to tell stories; the wind whis- 
tled, the vessel cracked and rocked, the waves rose, the 
mamma gave her ^iinner to the fishes, the daughter 
grew pale and paler, the Englishmen vanished below, 
and were seen no more on deck. Dreading the addi- 
tional discomforts of our cabin, we remained on deck 
as long as possible, then made a rush for our berths, 
where we tossed and tumbled until it was more quiet, 



262 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

and we thought the storm had abated. On inquhy, 
however, we found that we were feeling the storm less, 
in consequence of passing near the Isle of Elba, which 
we had hoped to see. What a long and tedious night ! 

P. M. Having first cabin, we had our first turn at 
the wash-bowl, which was brought to us, then emptied, 
and carried to the other passengers in succession ; we 
only hoped they had more than one towel ! 

No sooner did we find ourselves in Leghorn, than we 
hurried to get on shore : in vain the steward predicted 
fine weather, and a pleasant sail to Genoa ; we would 
not try it again. The lawyer had paid his fare to 
Genoa, but would not risk such another night, and 
went with us. What with the delay at the custom- 
house, and the stupidity of the porters, we were too 
late for the cars to Bologne. While waiting for 
another train, we employed the time in looking in 
shop windows, going to market, &c. Seeing some hand- 
some mussels in a tub of water, we picked out half a 
dozen, and asked the owner to open them ; a coachman, 
standing by, ofiered his services, opened the mussels, 
and swallowed the contents. An©ther man stepped 
up, seized the empty shells, lapped them all, and then 
handed them to me, saying; " See, lady, how clean they 
are ! " 

There were abundance of snails, and a very small 
fish, which we took for minnows, in the windows of 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 263 

» 

the restaurants. It seemed as it' the Italians and their 
animals eat everything and anything ; they gave their 
horses bundles of green grass, as well as carrots and 
other vegetables, also orange and lemon j)eels, all of 
which they ate with avidity. 

Took cars at two for Pistoja, a clean, nice-looking 
town, with broad streets, fine churches and palaces; it 
contains twelve thousand inhabitants, and is noted for 
manufactures, particularly for fire-arms; the pistol is 
said to have been invented in Pistoja. 

After walking about the town, and taking our sup- 
per, we went to the depot, where a good fire was kept 
up until eleven o'clock, when the cars arrived. Changed 
cars at Bologne. Took breakfast at Piacenza, and ar- 
rived at Milan at half past eight A. M. Had much 
dickering at Hotel Milan about rooms; they fancied 
giving us the very J3est or the very worst, neither of 
which suited ; after changing two or three times, we 
were satisfied. Agreed to pay four and a half francs 
per day for chamber and service, one and a half franc 
each for breakfast, and to take our dinner ad libitum, 

March 2^th. It was a holiday, and the stores were 
closed ; the wind blew furiously from the north-west, 
like a New England March wind ; and what with the 
extreme tidy appearance of the people, the neatness of 
the street|, and the newness and freshness of the build- 
ings, we almost fancied oui'selves at home again. 



264 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 

The cathedral is said to be tlie third in size in Eu- 
rope. Its roof is ornamented with ninety-eight Gothio 
towers, its exterior with four thousand five hundred 
marble statues; the pillars on the inside are massive, 
and instead of chapiters there are niches, with figures 
in them ; the ceiling is elaborately ornamented ; the 
painted windows represent some three hundred sub- 
iects. Among the statues, that of St. Bartholomew, 
by Marco Agrate, appeared to us the most astonishing 
piece of work ; his body is represented as skinned, and 
the skin as thrown over his arm ; all the veijis, nerves, 
&c., are finely executed. 

Wishing to see the chapel and tomb of St. Borro- 
meo, we went down and through a dark passage which 
led to it; two priests were at the altar, saying mass 
and drinking the wine all by themselves; the man, who 
conducted us, said that the heavy ornaments which we 
saw on the altar were pure silver, and that on festal 
.^♦--^ days they hung up a tapestry of gold. He said of a 
•v " Madonna covered with jewelry, " Those things were 
given by women," in a careless, indiflferent manner. 

Finding the omnibuses good, cheap, and convenient, 
we determined to avail ourselves of their use in seeing 
the city. St. Maria delle Grazie is an old church of 
the fifteenth century, built of brick and stone, and 
contains several good frescoes. On one side of this 
church is the convent in which Leonardi di Vinci 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 265 

painted the Lord's Supper. It is painted in oils on 
the wall, and is cracked and broken away in many 
places. Several artists were engaged in copying it. 
A Descent from the Cross, on the opposite wall, a fresco 
by Montorfano, is in a much better state of preserva- 
tion. By the by, said convent is now used as soldiers' 
barracks. La Bresa, Palace of Arts and Sciences, has 
a fine picture gallery, in which is the Marriage of 
Maria, an original, by Raphael. It is carefully encased 
in a sort of box with strong doors, and fenced in, so 
that nothing can touch it. In case of fire or accident, 
it can easily be shut up and removed. Four hundred 
pictures, by Titian, Raphael, Paul Veronese, Guerchin, 
Guido, and others, are distributed in thirteen rooms. 
Artists, male and female, young and old, were copying. 
One was painting Garibaldi, aided by a soldier, carry- 
ing his dead wife through a swamp. The expression 
of the fond husband is natural and touching. There 
were numerous fine landscapes, and a charming collec- 
tion of studies of heads of animals and peasants, as 
well as an abundance of Madonnas and saints. 

After tiring one's eyes with pictures, it is a great 
relief to sit and walk in the public gardens, to listen to 
the birds, feed the ducks and swans, talk to nurses and 
children, and even to shut one's eyes and see the pic- 
tures all over again, or at least those in which you 
have been so interested as to fix them in your mind. 



266 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

We did that ; and then we went to the Corso Victor 
Emanuel to see wealth, luxury, and pride roll along in 
splendid carriages, some with postilions in white pants 
and white wigs, black velvet jackets, and caj^s with 
gold bands. All together it was a pretty picture, and 
mountains snow-covered in the distance, a fine back- 
ground. 

One pleasing peculiarity of Milan is the good treat- 
ment and good looks of the horses, that is, as far as 
came within our observation. The streets are so paved 
that the wheels run on flag-stones, while the horses 
walk on pavements between the flag-stones, which 
renders it easier for them to draw. Then they are not 
overladen. The people look respectable and well-to- 
do; there is little or no begging; no screaming or 
yelling, as in Naples. The women dress well ; many 
of them wear only a black veil over the head, which is 
quite becoming. Some of the peasantry wear enormous 
silver combs, covering the back of the head, under 
which are silver pins with very large heads. 

The new gallery, called Victor Emanuel, is covered 
with glass, and paved in mosaic, although unfinished, 
it was very handsome. Almost all the stores with which 
it is lined were let, and some doing good business. The 
CoflTee-house Bifti pays six thousand dollars' rent, it 
was well patronized. We sat there an hour or two, 
looking at the multitades who passed by the windows. 



AN AMERICAlSr WOMAN IN EUROPE. 267 

and seeing gentlemen make and smoke tbeir cigarettes, 
eat sugar, and drink coffee. The place, beautiful at 
any time, is brilliant by gas-light. The theatre del 
Re seemed to be an exception to the general cleanli- 
ness of the city. We went down a cellar, and through 
a damp, cool, dark passage-way, to get to tbe front 
parterre. Five minutes there were sufficient. We 
complained of being uncomfortable, and they gave us 
a box in the first gallery, which they said was the best 
seat in the house, without extra charge. The play was 
well given. There were eighteen musicians, and we 
wondered how such a small, miserable house could sup^ 
port such a troupe. We did not care enough about 
going to the best theatre to pay the exorbitant price 
they were then charging for a new piece. Going 
through the streets, we saw a musical instrument 
wheeled about. It looked like an upright piano, 
was turned by a crank, and sounded like a hand- 
organ. In Naples we saw them transport large, 
square pianos on men's shoulders. 

A man dressed in yellow silk pants, red coat, and 
cocked hat, was leading two dogs for street perform- 
ance. These were followed by men with musical in- 
struments. We queried whether the showy man, the 
dogs, or the musicians were the most interesting to 
the crowds who gathered around them. 

In the Hotel Milan there was a machine of two- 



268 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

liorse power for raising people to their rooms, wliich 
the landlord claimed as his invention. It looked com- 
fortable, and is really quite a good contrivance — a 
Sort of box or little room with a sofa in it. How- 
ever, we were not favored with a hoist. 

There was a staidness about the people in Milan 
which was very agreeable. They appeared to be 
honest ; if they cheat the stranger, they certainly have 
a knack at it, for they divest one of fear. Much busi- 
ness is done in the streets ; a man or woman has quite 
a store of goods on a wheelbarrow. They offer their 
wares, but do not importune or follow you. 

The Grand Hospital is said to be one of the largest 
in the world. It is built of brick, and the front 
covered with terra cotta. Its principal couit-yard is 
surrounded by arcades, and looked pleasant and com- 
fortable for the patients whom we saw at the windows 
and on the balconies. 

We went into the Church of St. Lorenzo, said to be 
the oldest building in the city. Its portico, of sixteen 
columns, banded by iron to prevent their falling, stanfis 
in the street of Porta Ticinese, entirely separated 
from the church. It seemed that, although much 
esteemed on account of its antiquity, the church 
must look very differently from what it did originally, 
having been altered and changed, if not improved, 
three successive times during as many centuries. 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 269 

They told us that some of the mosaics in the Church 
of St. Auibrogio were older than those of St. Mark's, 
in Venice. We noticed an altar of ivory, beautifully 
carved. 

March "IWi. Sunday. We left Milan for Botzen. 
Several hunters took advantage of the fine weather. 
One got into the car with us. He showed us the burial- 
ground assigned to those who died of pestilence in the 
time of Carlo Borromeo — a large square, enclosed by a 
wall; a neat-looking and pleasant place. All the trees 
for a long distance — willows, oaks, mulberries — were 
closely trimmed. He told us that they were cut more 
or less every year, to get young shoots and tender 
leaves for silk-worms. Lake Garda looked inviting; 
mountains, islands, villages, the clear water of the lake, 
the trees, and beautiful sky — what a picture ! He also 
pointed out to us the place where the battle of Sol- 
ferino was fought. 

We passed immense vineyards, the vine cultivated 
to the very summits of steep hills and on every little 
patch of earth. The country was described as wonder- 
fully fertile, producing figs, mulberries, and grains in 
abundance. 

We stopped at Verona; walked about the city; the 
streets were filled with well-dressed people, going to 
the different churches. Verona contains sixty thoun 
sand inhabitants ; it is situated on the Adige, at the foot 



270 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

of the Alps, and is strongly fortified. After walking 
until tired, we took a carriage, and drove to the amphi- 
theatre, which is in a wonderful state of preservation, 
with its forty-one circles, capable of containing forty- 
one thousand persons, seated, and more standing. We 
remained so long in this amphitheatre that we had but 
little time left to look into the churches and at the 
principal buildings. 

Our companions from Verona to Botzen were two 
young men, one a Pole, the other a Prussian. They 
talked of Meran and Mentone; told of a celebrated 
English physician who never visited any one for less 
than twenty-five francs, and asked for his money be- 
fore he spoke to the patient; would not go out after 
dark. It happened that an English lord sent for him 
in the evening to visit his wife, who was taken sud- 
denly ill, and he refused to go. Next morning, the 
English doctor, hearing that it was a nobleman who 
sent for him, wrote a note, excusing himselfj and say- 
ing, that, if he had known who wanted him, he would 
not have refused ; that he was ready to attend to the 
lady, and would wait upon her at her pleasure; to 
t'lis the lord replied, that a physician who could not go 
to one as well as another was not the one for him, and he 
had no need of his services. They said that Meran was 
a delightful place, and many consumptive people were 
benefited by residing there; that the mistake people 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 271 

generally made was, to wait until they were too sick 
before they went, or not to remain long enough. 

Arrived at Botzen at seven P. M. Put up at a hotel 
called " Moonshine." In the large* entry, through which 
we w^ent to our chamber, and near our door, was a 
frightful-looking crucifix — the Christ, of wood, and life 
size. I always shudder at the sight of such ugly things, 
they seem so profane. How can people, who believe 
in the holiness and godliness of Christ, represent him 
thus? 

Next morning the dining-room was so full of the 
tobacco smoke of the night previous as to spoil our 
breakfast; the double windows, seemingly, were not 
intended to be opened even for the purpose of airing 
the rooms. However, they had openings in the roof 
for ventilation. We thought of seeing Meran, but the 
clouds threatened, and we gave it up. The view of 
the mountains from the bridge was magnificent. Bot- 
zen, as the point of union of the roads from Switzer- 
land, Italy, and Germany, is a very important and 
interesting city. We had hoped to see the people in 
Tyrolian costume, but were disappointed ; only now and 
then one with a Tyrolian hat and sash. The streets are 
good ; thex'e are long arcades, with neat-looking stores 
under them. 

We left at ten A. M., after having run through sev- 
eral streets, seen the parade and drill, and gazed upon 



272 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

the lovely Dolomit Mountains, clad in whitish-green 
and pale-red, with snowy tops. 

The cars went slowly, slowly, up the Brenner. An 
official and his wife talked freely of their affairs. They 
were not pleased with their mountain home ; said that 
they were entirely cut off from society, and deprived 
of various things to which they had been accustomed. 
The gentleman gave us much information; spoke of 
the dangers on the road; said there were frequent 
earth slides and avalanches ; that passengers had been 
detained three or four days in consequence of a slide 
(pleasant prospects for us). The road was new, and 
they were still at work u2:)on it, laying double tracks. 
He went on to say that the road was only an experi- 
ment, which, it was hoped^ would succeed. The 
company were not willing to make great outlays in 
building bridges ; they meant to try to do with as few 
as possible. In one place they ran a tunnel under a 
castle and over another tunnel, under which a river 
flowed. The ride was intensely interesting, and of 
course we were much excited. On, on, we went into 
snow-fields, and afterwards into a snow-storm. The 
Brenner lake was frozen. 

At the Brenner station — forty -five hundred feet 
above the level of the sea — another official joined us. 
He was quite a young man, and almost desperate at 
being obliged to keep his office. Poor fellow! He 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 273 

tried to be gay, and laugh about it, but there was a 
bitterness behind. 

We asked why he did not relinquish it. He said 
he had been appointed, and must serve. Riveted, as 
it were, to the windows, we looked down the frightful 
precipices into the depths below, and forward to the 
narrow track, just on an edge, where the slightest jerk 
would send us into eternity. 

The worst part of the road was going down to Inns^ 
bruck. Men were actually at work, filling up, making 
land, extending a point here and there, a few feet wide^ 
and several feet high. O, how dangerous it looked ! 
In many places the land was stuck off in squares, made 
by means of twigs, interlaced and fastened to sticks in 
the ground, to prevent the w^ashing of the soil ; thig 
had to be watched constantly, and often renewed. 
Many small villages lay scattered on the way. Far 
below us were the strong Franzensfeste. Here it is 
that terrible battles were fought, in the valley, between 
the French and Bavarians against the Tyrolians, who, 
in many places, threw down rocks upon their ene- 
mies. 

It so happened that when the official and his wife 
left the cars at Matrey, another, who had to do with 
the road, came in, so that we learned still more about 
its construction and management. He said the gov- 
ernment had expended a great deal more in bridges, 
18 



274 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

&c., on a small part of the road towards Innsbruck 
than the company had expended over the whole 
mountain way. 

It was six P. M. when we arrived at Innsbruck, 

March 31s^. We rose very early ; went into the Fran- 
ciscan Church to see the tomb of Maximilian I., and 
the surrounding twenty-eight standing figures in iron, 
representing royal personages. They are some three 
hundred years old, and well executed, particularly the 
drapery. Then we strolled through the wide streets ; 
saw the statue of Andreas Hofer, the Tyrolian pa- 
triot, who was shot by the French in 1810. Our hotel, 
Austrian House, was very comfortable ; hostess atten- 
tive and polite ; prices unreasonable. 

At eight A. M. we were again on the w^ay ; stopped 
one hour at Munich, and arrived at Augsburg at seven 
P. M. ; put up at hotel Drei Mohren, the house in 
which the celebrated Fugger lived. They took us 
into the room in which he caused the note of Max- 
imilian to be burned on a fire of cinnamon wood; the 
chapel used for his family devotion ; the room in which 
Napoleon I. was received ; saw the book in which 
lords, princes, and royal personages, who had been 
guests in the house, had written their names. 

The outside of the house is frescoed, and tells the 
history of the Fugger family, which, from common 
weavers, became millionnaires, having wealth to 



AN AMEEICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 275 

loan the emperor, who, not being able to return the 
money, repaid them by titles and honors. A statue 
of Fugger stands in the street. 

Aprillst. Was spent very pleasantly, riding about 
the town, going to the galleries and museum, and in 
the evening to a social party, where we met agreea- 
ble, intelligent people, who spoke English and French. 
Had tea, with bread, butter, and cake, at an early 
hour, after which another meal of beer, wine, bread, sau- 
sages, &c. Both meals were relished by guests who 
seemed blessed with good appetites. N^ext morning 
we paid for our nice room, good beds, dinner, &c., a 
very reasonable price, and started again ; rode through 
a pleasant and smiling country to Heidelberg, where 
we were once more welcomed by our American friends. 
From thence we went to Frankfort, and put up at the 
Pariser Hof; then hired rooms, which we kept but 
one week. This time — and it was the only time — we 
found unpleasant people, with whom we could not live. 
Like lawyers, who, hard up with their clients, try to 
persuade the court of their insanity, so we tried to 
persuade ourselves that the people, if not insane, were 
considerably cracked, and left them to let their estab- 
lishment to the next comer. 

We made a visit in Carlsruhe ; then returned to 
Frankfort, to pleasant rooms, with good people. They 
had a parrot twenty-five years old. He was very quiet 



276 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

while the daughter, a music-teacher, was out of the 
house ; but as soon as it was time for her to return, he 
began to call, "Johanna, come up," and showed his 
delight at her appearance by whistling, singing, and 
talking. When she played uj^on the piano, he invari- 
ably sang, although he never raised a note when her 
father played or sang. It was amusing to hear him 
sing "Stradella," "Romeo," &c., jumbling together all 
the words he could speak, and making cadences and 
flourishes. Said parrot ate whatever was upon the 
table, — meat, vegetables, &c., — and drank coffee and 
beer; was a healthy, fine-looking bird. 

Our window looked upon charming gardens. Pi- 
geons and sparrows manifested their disinterested 
affection by daily visits to our bread-basket. Our 
rooms were scrupulously clean and handsomely fur- 
nished ; beds excellent. We had all we wished, ex- 
cept .water. To be sure, there was enough in the 
kitchen ; but we could not have a pitcher of water. 
It was their fashion to put the water in the bowls. 

We found our landlord and his daughter good peo- 
ple, and would have remained with them, but absent 
members of their family were coming home, and our 
rooms were needed ; so we prepared to move again. 

April 20th. There was a floral exhibition in the 
garden recently belonging to the Elector of Hesse. 
The plants were tastefully arranged, each of a kind 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 277 

by itself. The pots of flowers were set in wet sand, 
and covered and surrounded by moss, so that they 
could be kept moist and fresh. There was a fine dis- 
play of roses of every size, and color, and fragrance ; 
numerous choice and beautiful azalias, rhododendrons, 
the finest I ever saw^ ; cineraria, in great varieties; striped 
grass in miniature ; colored and striped leaves, peonies 
in pots, each bearing one huge flower; and several 
things entirely new to us. Passing down the sandy 
passage from the entrance, we saw, as it were, a range 
of snow-capped mountains in the distance, nicely 
frescoed on the wall ; and, coming near, we found a 
cascade, a pond, and a bridge, which led to another 
green-house and the egress. Going over the bridge, 
we passed through a grotto, and came out in the 
midst of palm trees, agaves, yuccas, &c. The whole 
was finely arranged, and the efifect good. We noticed 
that, aside from the regular prizes aw^arded to the cul- 
tivators, several persons received silver spoons, forks, 
rings, &c., from private individuals. We have al- 
ready spoken of the extreme love which Germans 
have for flowers. 

The exhibition of the deaf and dumb was exceed- 
ingly interesting. After the reading of the method 
of instruction, &c., by one of the teachers, he intro- 
duced a small boy, with whom he had labored over a 
year without the least prospect of success, and feared 



278 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

to be obliged to give it up, when suddenly the boy- 
began to speak, and now articulated words and phrases. 
The child looked steadily in the teacher's face, watch- 
ing the movement of every muscle, which he imitated. 
Afterwards four girls and boys read and conversed 
in the same manner. Others pointed out places on 
maps, answered questions, &g. They had exercises in 
arithmetic, history, grammar, botany, &c. All the 
pupils seemed happy, and addressed the company 
present with "guten Tag," or something similar. Their 
writing, drawing, plaster-work, wood-cutting, worsted- 
work, &c., were very creditable. The teacher, with 
whom we conversed, thought it would be much more 
difficult to teach English than German sounds to deaf 
mutes. 

A large and handsome garden, belonging to the 
institution, was a source of pride and pleasure to the 
pupils, who delighted in the cultivation of flowers. 

April 27th. We walked in Willie Rothschild's 'gar- 
den : he is a very strict observer of the Jewish faith. 
His wife, an Englishwoman, did not wish to have the 
garden open to the public, and intended to forbid it. 
Willie's uncle Amschel, from whom he inherited the 
garden, used to like to see strangers, and tell them 
the value of rare trees and plants ; he was very liberal, 
and much beloved by the Frankforters. 

There was a fine tree, valued at several thousand 



AlSr AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 279 

guldens, built over to protect it from the wind ; there 
were superb roses, lilies, wall-flowers, &c.; but, as a 
whole, the garden oflered nothing extra. 

We read in a German paper the death of a man, in 
Naples, aged one hundred and five, who, a short time 
previous, had made one of a j^arty on an excursion to 
Vesuvius. He left twenty sons, the oldest of whom 
was eighty-three. A jolly family that! 

'May 2d. A silver wedding came off, and we were 
the only American representatives in a very large as- 
sembly, v^here dress and fashion were conspicuous. 
The rooms were ornamented with flowers; company 
gay, and bent on having a good time. The supper 
lasted from nine to half past eleven ; the tables were 
finely arranged and ornamented with pots of flowers; 
the numerous viands were handsomely served and duly 
appreciated by those whose India-rubber stomachs al- 
lowed them to partake of every dish which was offered. 
Speeches were made, toasts given, and poetry recited, 
interspersed with loud hurrahs and cheers. Then fol- 
lowed music and singing. We left just as the dancing 
commenced. I enjoyed German society in Germany, 
where every one is natural, and acts himself without 
affectation, and where all enjoy and are satisfied with 
themselves and all about them. They dance, they 
sing, they talk, they eat with a good will, and, more 
than all, they beliave well. Young people do not 



280 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

club together and set their elders in a corner; neither 
do elders monopolize attentions; both act naturally, 
and carry out the true politeness which springs from 
kind feelinojs. 

Walking out of the city among the fields in the 
evening, the air seemed filled with beetles ; and men, 
women, and children were making a business of kill- 
ing them : the ground was covered with their dead 
bodies. They told us that the snails had already 
destroyed many plants in their gardens, and now they 
feared the beetles would ruin the fruit. Afterwards 
we saw a gray-haired man and his grown son playing 
with beetles, which they caught and put into a heap ; 
then put one at a time on the end of a cane; one 
man held the cane at arm's length while the other 
tried to hit the beetle. 

At the theatre, a gentleman of eighty-one sat next 
to us : he was very sociable ; said he was in perfect 
health, although he could neither see nor hear very 
well. He loved operas, and thought it best to make 
the most of them while he could ; he beat time, clapped 
lustily, and cried out, " Bravo ! " when satisfied. Now 
and then we heard him singing with the chorus. 

May bth. A band of fifty musicians played every 
morning from seven to eight on the promenade, and all 
Frankfort — so to say — went to hear them. I never 
saw so many dogs in any one place as we used to see 



AN AMEEICAK WOMAN IN EUROPE. 281 

there mornings ; suppose they, too, went to hear the 
music. From the band we turned into a side-path to 
listen to the birds. 

One morning I asked to have our bed linen changed. 
The good lady — a pink of neatness and gentility — 
was astonished at my request ; said they never changed 
the beds oftener than " once a month ; " so much wash- 
ing would wear out the linen. In my cogitations, I 
said to myself, How clean the Germans are! They 
sozzle and scrub the floors, and but seldom wash 
chamber ware ; suppose they fear to wear that out, too. 
So we cannot have clean sheets and pillow-slips ! O, 
friends in America, who revel in the luxury of a 
weekly change, pity us ! Elsewhere I have fought 
and conquered prejudice; here I am defeated. 

A friend brought a nice carriage and span, driven 
by an old man in yellow legs and gold bands, to give 
us a drive. Went to Soden and Konigstein, where we 
walked through the woods to the new hotel in Cron- 
berg; looked for rooms; few to be had, and those at 
good prices, Cronberg growing too fashionable for 
short purses. Took coffee in a garden ; had quite a 
discussion upon the character of George Sand and her 
treatment of Chopin : it is but just to sny that Madame 
Sand was ably defended by the masculine part of the 
company. The clay was fine, and we enjoyed being 
in the open air. There is nothing pleasanter than the 
social gatheringf, in the gardens. 



282 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

3Iay nth. A crowd of people were at the Zoologi- 
cal Gardens; music of the best quality; admission 
twelve kreutzers. Our attention was attracted to a 
lady who was feeding the polar bear — a fine, huge 
specimen — with sugar. Every few minutes she would 
cry out, " See, see ! the dear creature ! how amiable 
he is ! " as he stood up, and stuck his great paw out 
to take the sugar. Some gentlemen expressed their 
fears that she would allow the bear to take her hand, 
in her admiration of his amiability. 

While listening to the music, we could but watch 
the movements of very young children, who seemed 
to take it in as they did the air : it was part and 
parcel of themselves, acting wonderfully upon their 
little limbs, which moved in quick time for a dance, or 
slow and regularly, in accordance with the time of the 
music ; one little fellow, in particular, kept arms, legs, 
and mouth in continual motion while the band 
played. 

The confirmation of a German youth is an impor- 
tant epoch in his life. Protestants, Catholics, Jews, — 
all have their confirmation, which, though conducted 
with different ceremonies, amounts to the same thing, 
or rather carries out the same idea ; viz., that of in- 
itiating him into the religion of his fathers. On 
the 18th of May we witnessed the confirmation of 
twelve hundred children in the Cathedral of Frank- 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 283 

fort. Said Cathedral, not having been fully repaired 
from damages by fire the previous year, the services 
were performed in rather a limited space. Although 
the day was hot, a vast and motley group crowded to- 
gether to witness the ceremony. There were people 
of both sexes and all ages; gentlemen and ladies in the 
tip of the fashion — the latter in lace cloaks and mus- 
lin dresses — standing beside market women in full, 
dark skirts, with red sontag or woollen jacket, and a 
large red or white kerchief over the head, pinned 
close under the chin, but more with bare heads and 
nicely-combed and. braided hair; there were crippled 
old men, and infants in arms ; soldiers of different 
grades and in different uniforms. Nearly all this 
crowd were standing, and very few could conven- 
iently move from their standing-place; there were few 
seats, and, fortunately for me, I slipped into one of 
them. 

The boys on one side, and girls on the other, knelt 
at long tables, covered with white cloth, in front of the 
altars. There was a responsive exercise between the 
bishop and the congregation. I was too far from him 
to hear what he said ; but the response was, " Holy 
Mother of God, we pray that our sins may be forgiven 
from this time forth and forevermore." This response 
was repeated and repeated with that energy and hearti- 
ness which is peculiar to the German character. In the 



284 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

singing, of which the solo and choir were superb, the 
congregation did their part zealously. A peasant woman 
standing next to me had a splendid voice, and let it 
out most effectually. Several priests assisted the 
bishop : one took the children's names ; another gave 
each a printed card ; a third carried a silver cup, into 
which the bishop dipped his finger, and then touched 
the forehead of each child, repeating something in an 
under tone ; small boys, in white muslin over red gar- 
ments, followed the bishop, for what purpose I knew 
not. I found it useless to ask any information of those 
about me, for the only answer I got to the questions I 
ventured were, " Because they always do," or, " That is 
what they must do." 

One &et of children gave place to another, until all 
the twelve hundred had gone through the same cere- 
mony, after which all knelt in front of the main altar, 
from which they were exhorted by the bishop. I am 
sorry to say that I caught but few words and detached 
phrases of what he said, for besides being at a consid- 
erable distance from him, people were continually going 
out and coming in, whispering, and the like. Prayer 
and singing finished the service. 

Another day, seeing a crowd around the Katharinen 
Church, curiosity prompted us to enter. A number of 
children sat together in front of the minister; all the 
girls were prettily dressed in white, and many had 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 285 

white wreaths or white flowers in their hair ; they were 
to be confirmed. 

After congregational singing and prayer, the minis- 
ter addressed the children in an affectionate manner, 
pointing out their duties and responsibilities as Chris- 
tian members of society ; then he called each one to 
him by name, beginning with tlie boys, put his hand 
upon the head of the child kneeling before him, and 
repeated some appropriate verse of Scripture, as " Lit- 
tle children, love one another ; " " Beloved, follow not 
that which is evil, but that which is good ; " " My child, 
love not in word, but in deed and in truth," &c. The 
service was concluded by prayer and singing, in which 
the children joined. 

Having seen the two so differently performed cere- 
monies, I was glad of an opportunity to witness a Jew- 
ish confirmation, which does not take place, like the 
Catholic, at a regular church season, or like the Protes- 
tant, when the church appoints, but when the child or 
children haA'^e attained the age of fifteen years, can 
read Hebrew, recite the commandments, and are sup- 
posed to understand the formulae of service. They are 
confirmed, occasionally, one alone ; but in cities like 
Frankfort, where are some eight thousand Jews, there 
are always several of the right age and capabilities con- 
firmed together. 

Not knowing which way to go, I followed some girls, 



\ 



286 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IM EUROPE. 

entering the synagogue, into the first gallery ; for 
males and females do not sit together, neither are 
females permitted to sit on the lower floor at regular 
service time. 

The new synagogue is a neat and pretty building, 
the inside of a light fawn color, with much stucco work 
and gray trimmings; there are two tiers of galleries, 
and odd-lookinor sfas-burners in the form of stars. There 
was a large burning lamp in front of the "holy of 
holies," two immense candelabras, with circles of gas- 
lights, on each side the ark. There were arches of 
green boughs and evergreens, palm trees, and plants, 
and flowers in great abundance upon the steps and back 
of the altar, so arranged as to produce a pleasant effect. 

People crowded in to see the ceremony, and some 
went an hour before the time to get a good seat. On 
this occasion women were allowed on the lower floor. 
In vain I looked for the type of beauty among the 
Jew^ish maidens, of which I have read so much : they 
were dressed richly, in the extreme of fashion, but, as 
a body, were far from beautiful. Men and boys sat 
with their hats on. 

The misses who were to be confirmed looked well in 
a simple dress of white muslin, as they sat under 
arches of ivy and roses ; the boys were in black, with 
white vests and white gloves. 

One after another rose to answer a question addressed 



AN AMETIICAN WOMAN" IN EUROPE. 287 

by tliG rabbi ; then each made a shoit speech, after 
which tlie rabbi made a long, tiresome discourise. The 
music was grand, and the singing unusually line. 

We were told that the children confirmed receive 
presents from tlieir relations, and the day of their con- 
lirraation is generally celebrated by a festive gathering 
at the parental house. 

May SOth. We took our coffee in Eltville, where 
we got a carriage to take us to Schwalbach ; had a 
charming ride over high hills and under shady trees ; 
inquired the prices of rooms : they were tolerably dear, 
and would be more so after the first of July. Stopped 
in Schlangenbad ; prices about the same. Both places 
are much resorted to, but neither looks inviting. An 
English writer, speaking of Schlangenbad, says, " The 
baths at Schlangenbad are the most harmless and de- 
licious luxuries of the sort that I ever enjoyed; and I 
really quite looked forward to the morning for the 
pleasure with which I paid my addresses to this de- 
lightful element. The effect the water produces on the 
skin is very singular; it is about as warm as milk, but 
infinitely softer, and after dipping the hand into it, if 
the thumb be rubbed against the fingers, it is said 
by many to resemble satin. Nevertheless, whatever 
may be its sensations, when one reflects that people 
not only come to these baths from Russia, but that the 
water in stone bottles, merely as a cosmetic, is sent to 



288 AX AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

St. Petersburg and other distant parts of Europe, he 
will admit that it must be soft indeed to have gained 
for itself such an extraordinary degree of celebrity. 
Nothing but the real or fancied charms of the water 
could attract people into a little sequestered valley, 
which, in every sense of the word, is out of sight of 
the civilized world ; and yet I must say, that I never 
remember to have lived in a place which possessed 
such fascinating beauties ; besides which (to say nothing 
of breathing pure, dry air), it is no small pleasure to 
live in a skin which puts all people in good humor, at 
least with themselves. But besides the cosmetic 
charms of this water, it is declared to possess virtues 
of more substantial value. It is said to tranquillize the 
nerves, to soothe all inflammation ; and from this latter 
property, the cures of consumption, which are reported 
to have been eflected among human beings and cattle, 
may have proceeded. Yet, whatever good eflTect the 
water may have upon this insidious disorder, its first 
operation most certainly must be to neutralize the 
bad effect of the climate, which to consumptive pa- 
tients must decidedly be a very severe trial; for, de- 
lightful as it is to people in robust health, yet the 
keenness of the mountain air, together with the sud- 
den alterations of temperature, to which the valley is 
exposed, must, I think, be anything but a remedy for 
weak lungs. 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 289 

"The Schlangenbad water contains the muriates and 
carbonates of lime, soda, and magnesia, with a slight 
excess of carbonic acid, which holds the carbonates in 
solution. The celebrated embellishment which it pro- 
duces on the skin is, in my opinion, a sort of corro- 
sion, which removes tan, or any other artificial cover- 
ing that the surface may have attained from exposure 
and ill treatment by the sun and wind. In short, the 
body is cleaned by it, just as a kitchen-maid scours her 
copper saucepan." 

Speaking of the manner of living, food, &c., he goes 
on to say, " How many of our country people are always 
raving about the cheapness of the Continent ! [since 
he wrote, the times have somewhat changed] ; and 
how many, every year, break up their establishments 
to go in search of it ! yet, if we had but sense, or 
rather courage, enough to live at home as economi- 
cally and as rationally as princes and people of all 
ranks live throughout the Continent, how unnecessary 
would be the sacrifice, and how much real happiness 
would be the result!" 

In the history of the duchy of Nassau, the discovery 
of the spring in Schlangenbad forms quite an amusing 
story. " Once there was a heifer, with which every- 
thing seemed to disagree. The more she ate, the 
thinner she grew, and the more her mother licked her 
hide, the rougher and more staring was her coat. 
19 



290 AN AJVIERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

Not a fly in the forest would bite her; never was 
she seen to chew the cud ; but, hide-bound and mel- 
ancholy, her hips seemed to be protruding through her 
skin. No one could tell what ailed her, or what would 
cure her ; finally, she was deserted by her master, and, 
as the faculty say, ' given over.' 

" In a few weeks, however, she suddenly reappeared 
among the herd, with ribs covered with flesh, eyes like 
a deer, skin sleek as a mole's, breath smelling sweetly 
of milk, saliva hanging in ringlets from her jaw. 
Every day seemed to reestablish her health, and the 
phenomenon was so striking that the herdsmen, feeling 
induced to watch her, discovered that regularly, every 
evening, she wormed her way, in secret, into the for- 
est, until she reached an unknown spring of water, 
from which having refreshed herself, she quietly re- 
turned to the valTey. 

"Tlie trifling circumstance, scarcely known, was al- 
most forgotten by the peasant, when a young Nassau 
lady began decidedly to show exactly the same in- 
comprehensible symptoms as the heifer. Mother and 
friends tried to cure her, but in vain ; and the physi- 
cian had actually 

' Taken bis leave with sighs and sorrow, 
Despairing of his fee to-mori'ow,' 

when the herdsman, happening to hear of her case, 
prevailed upon her, at last, to try the heifer's secret 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 291 

remedy. Slie did so, and in a very sliort time, to the 
utter astonishment of her friends, she became one of the 
stoutest and roundest young women in the duchy. 

"What had cured one sick lady was soon deemed a 
proper prescription for others ; and, other cases meet- 
ing with success, the spring came into notice. It took 
its name Schlangen (snake) from the snakes with 
which the woods at that time abounded." • 

We drove back to Eltville in time for the cars; 
stopped at Biebrich, and took our dinner in a garden. 
The air was cool and pleasant, and we enjoyed our nice 
beefsteak and the sight of the Rhine at the same time. 
From Biebrich we went to Wiesbaden, heard good 
music, looked at the gamblers a while, and then re- 
turned to Frankfort, feeling as if we had done a good 
day's work. 

One morning, at six A. M., we went to one of 
Baron Rothschild's farms to drink new milk, entering a 
large enclosure surrounded on three sides by build- 
ings, viz., the farm-house, stables for horses, and 
stables for cows, we turned to the right, where small 
tables and chairs were placed to accommodate the 
milk-drinkers. As no one came to wait upon us, we 
went into a cow stable, from which a lady had just 
issued with a large tumbler of milk, and helped our- 
selves to tumblers, which we handed to the man who 
sat milking. We were then told that we could sit at 



292 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

the table in the stable, provided for such as like to 
inhale the bresth of the cows, or outside, as we chose. 
We preferred the latter on account of the invigorat- 
ing, cool morning air. However, we paid the cows a 
visit, and were delighted to see how clean they were 
kept, and how well they looked. There were from ten 
to twelve cows in a stable, each having a large, comfort- 
able space, with a deep bedding of clean straw. We 
noticed that they not only had plenty of room in 
which to move their bodies, but that their heads were 
unconfined, so that two, lying side by side, were lapping 
each other, as in the open field. They also had an 
abundance of freshly-cut fodder. All were splendid- 
looking animals. Two of them had just taken the 
highest prize at the Agricultural Fair. Like all ani- 
mals which are kindly treated, they seemed pleased to 
be patted and spoken to ; and, no doubt, if they could 
have given utterance to their thought, they would 
have wished us " good health," in true German style. 

Many ladies, gentlemen, and children went daily for 
their new milk. Perhaps some American friends would 
object to drinking unstrained milk. Now, allow me to 
ask why milk need to be strained if the milker's hands, 
cow's bag, and milk-pail are perfectly clean, as they 
certainly ought to be. The foam of new milk is 
delicious. Try it for once, and judge for yourselves. 

Before we left the cows, a papa came into the stable, 



AN AMERICAlSr WOMAN IN EUROPE. 293 

followed by three children. One had a basket, from 
which he extracted a bib for his little sister, napkins 
for the rest, and fresh rolls for all. The party filled a 
table, and seemed to enjoy their breakfast. The tum- 
blers held a pint ; price, four kreutzers — two and two- 
third cents ; considered dear. 

Now, although the baron's cows have very nice 
quarters, I believe that they would much prefer being 
in one of his nice pastures. But in Germany no cattle 
are seen in the pastures in summer. You see cows, it 
is true, generally good-looking ones, and plenty of 
them, but not leisurely grazing, or lying under shady 
trees. O, no! women and cows work in the fields. 
Cows draw the casks of water to refresh the drooping 
vegetables ; cows bring home the fresh-cut fodder and 
the winter's hay; cows jog along with a load of grain 
or a load of stones. When a German peasant is asked 
if his cow can give milk and work too, he answers, 
" Why not ? She is well ; she is strong. I take good 
care of her." 

As you ride through the country, you notice that all 
the land is carefully cultivated, and see patches of pinks, 
roses, and other flowers, in the corners and centres of 
beds of vegetables. You fancy that some very rich 
farmer owns and carries on all that looks to you like 
one large garden. What a mistake! The eight or 
ten acres which you are admiring are owned by as 



294 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

many or iiiore individuals, who know and observe their 
own boundary lines. They are careful not to take 
from or injure their neighbor's property, and they are 
sure that their neighbor will not infringe upon theirs. 

Every one will allow that this is a charming feature 
of character ; yet we cannot help seeing that it would 
be much better for the poor farmer if he could have all 
the bits and patches of land which he owns together 
in one place. But he is poor, and forced to buy when 
and as he can ; so you find his cherry trees and potato 
patch in one place, his rye and wheat in another, his 
gooseberry bushes and salad perhaps near the house, 
while his carrots and cabbao-es are a mile off. He feels 
and knows that much time is lost to him in going from 
one to the other; but he sees no remedy but assiduous 
labor; so wife and children, cow^s and dogs, must help. 

June 26^A. The Kins: of Prussia reviewed the 
troops in Frankfort. He looked remarkably well for 
a man of seventy-five years; is stout-built; carriage 
erect. There was not the shghtest demonstration — 
only a few of the officers' wives in the house opposite 
wliere he stood waved their handkerchiefs. No one 
gave him a welcome. He made a short job of it near 
the depot, and was off as soon as possible. 

Up to June 2&th we had prepared our own break- 
fast, paid half a gulden (or twenty cents) each for 
an excellent dinner, taken our supper in gardens 



AN AMEKICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 295 

where concerts were given," been to operas, &g. ; and 
now we determined to see how the cold-water estab- 
lishments were managed, and try to get up a stock of 
strength to carry home. Gleisweiler was recommend- 
ed : so we packed for Gleisweiler, determining to stop 
at Worms on our way, and see the Luther Monument. 
We had been discouraged from attending the celebra- 
tion by the reports of throngs of people from all parts 
of the country crowding to it. What was our surprise 
to find our express train stop at every village to take 
in some of the multitudes going to Worms! and the 
nearer we approached the greater was the gathering. 
The cars were filled, yet people rushed and crowded 
to such a degree that the conductor and his aids had 
to push them back. 

It was Sunday. The working people had leisure, 
and they wished to see the Monument. Many would 
have walked a considerable distance to attain their 
object, but the day was too hot ; and, tired and dis- 
appointed, they returned to their homes, with the 
conductor's words, " Go home and save your money," 
ringing in their ears. 

Worms, one of the oldest cities of Germany, con- 
taining only about ten thousand inhabitants, is noted 
as the place where Luther defended himself before 
Charles V., in 1521. It was profusely decorated with 
flags, mostly the orange, black, and red. We were 



296 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

disappointed in the arrangement of the beautiful 
figures which constitute the Luther Monument. It 
seemed to us that they were placed much too near 
each other, and stand too low. However beautiful 
each is separately, they convey no idea of grandeur 
to the observer, huddled together as they are in 
a small square. The newspapers said that on the 
25th all the towns on the Rhine were decorated 
with flags and garlands ; that there were services in 
three churches in Worms at the same time. One 
jjreacher took for his text, " What came ye out to 
see ? " 

Fresh fish is a great delicacy in many German 'cities, 
and consequently expensive. Landau, one of the ex- 
ceptions, furnished us a good supper of trout, after 
which we drove to Gleisweiler, one hour's distance. 
The cold-water establishment is delightfully situated 
in a quiet and retired part of the village, said to be 
one thousand feet above sea level. It was not full, 
and we had an opportunity of choosing one of the 
best rooms — third story, fifty-nine steps from the 
basement, view magnificent. How often I thought of 
dear Mr. Parker as I climbed over the stairs — " Pay 
for a thing and have it " ! I wanted the view ; had to 
pay for it by going over all those stairs. 

Under and a little beyond our window was a Rus- 
sian countess. She sat smoking on the balcony, with 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 297 

four dogs and five or six canaries, when we arrived. 
Inquiring about her, we were told that she was more 
than sixty years of age, rode every morning on her own 
horse, was accompanied by her servant man, who was 
obliged to follow at a respectful distance. She kept 
aloof from the company, ate on her. balcony, appeared 
to be very fond of her dogs, with which she often 
walked out in the woods. We had not been in the 
house long before we became aware of her powers as 
a linguist. She spoke German to one of her maids, 
scolded her man-servant furiously in Italian, caressed 
her birds in Russian, her dogs occasionally in English, 
and conversed in French with her son, all which we 
could not help hearing in our chamber, the windows 
being open. 

While waiting for the soup, I observed our dinner^ 
table companions opposite me. At the lower end of 
the doctor's table sat a jolly, fat, red-faced German, a 
forester, who now and then gave a pleasant squint 
from behind his spectacles. He looked a picture of 
health. Next him a cadaverous, Yankee-looking man, 
who talked much about hunting; was evidently a 
farmer. Next, a nondescript. They said he had been 
a French officer. He seldom spoke. The first time 
we saw him, we supposed he was dumb. He was a 
man of middling stature, thin, sharp features, beard 
twisted at the ends, eyes a la Mephistophiles, nails 



298 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

frightful ; they extended half an inch beyond the fingers, 
and were exquisitely clean. Next him sat a Baden 
officer, quite the gentleman. Then came a spruce old 
lady, full of mannerisms, fine speeches, and aristo- 
cratic airs. She told us that she had sat at table 
with the Queen of Wurtemburg, been complimented 
on her fine looks by the king, &c. She asked me 
where I came from. Our conversation ran thus : — 

" Where is that Boston ? I never heaird of it." 

"Near New York." 

" O, I have heard of New York ; it is rather a large 
city, I believe. Are there educated people in Boston ? " 

" I believe there are a few." 

" I suppose there are many wild people in your 
neighborhood ? " 

The lady had, no doubt, studied "polite learning," 
to the exclusion of her geography and histoiy. In a 
short time she gave me the history of her life. Among 
other things, she told rae that of the one hundred 
shirts with which her mother presented her at her 
marriage, fifty-five years previous, she still had thirty 
in wear which had not come to mending. She said, 
and said truly, that linen was better then than it is 
now. 

One day she took her place at table next the long- 
nailed Frenchman, and tried her utmost to bring him 
into conversation. Finding her efforts useless, slie 



AN AMEEICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 299 

said, " Do you speak French or German ? " To which 
he answered, "Both, madame," and was silent. When 
dinner came round again, he was missing from table. 

We undertook to get up a subscription for the family 
of a poor fellow who had broken his back. It took 
thirty-two persons to raise fourteen dollars and forty 
cents. How differently such things are done at home ! 

It was fair to presume that the persons who were 
benefited by living at the cold-water cure were in- 
debted to the good air of the place, and the rest from 
care and labor, and the out-of-door life which they led, 
rather than to any advice of the resident physician 
and owner of the establishment — a sickly, indifferent 
sort of man, who, having made a fortune, was prepared 
to get along as easily as possible. Nearly the same 
formula was prescribed for all diseases. A young girl, 
half crazy, a gouty old man, a consumptive youth, a 
rheumatic woman, one and all, had a sheet, wrung out 
of cold water, throv^n over them at five in the morn- 
ing ; then they walked ad lihituTn y took breakfast ; 
had a bath (if they chose); at dinner ate and drank 
anything they pleased (the doctor's wife kept the 
house), every one being suj^posed to know what was 
good for himself After dinner, such as fancied it good 
for them, walked a long distance, and up a hill, to get 
into a small pool of spring water, dignified by the name 
of Wellenbad. 



300 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

I could but think that all would have been as well 
off with their simple, every-day baths. But this was 
an institution. The most farcical part of the story 
was, that every patient who left was reported as cured. 

We remained until July 19th, and really enjoyed 
ourselves, leading a quiet and pleasant life, mostly in 
the woods. Some of the patients were delightful 
people, whose society was valuable and instructive. 
Among them were an elderly French gentleman, and 
his sister, a lovely lady. It was charming to see how 
attentive they were to each other. We called them 
Charles and Maiy Lamb. There were also some 
farmers' wives from Alsace, two of them in costume — 
short green woollen dresses, little jackets, full white 
sleeves, and a head-dress with huge ribbons standing 
out like birds' wings ; both interesting women. An- 
other, a remarkably intelligent and observing person, 
with whom it was a pleasure to converse, possessed 
the rare combination of wealth and understanding with- 
out pride. Among the gentlemen, the forester and 
the Yankee-like farmer appeared the most natural, and 
therefore the most sensible. 

The charges at Gleisweiler were quite reasonable for 
a water-cure. 

In the neighborhood of Gleisweiler is Trifels where 
Richard Coeur de Lion is said to have been imprisoned 
in 1093. 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 301 

July Idth. Again we stopped at Worms ; saw the 
Luther's Gate, the Cathedral, and a hotel called Lin- 
coln. 

On our way to Bingen, the clouds, which had been 
collecting, blackening, and thickening, opened and 
poured their contents upon the fields and heaf)s of 
grain. Many farmers had been gathering in their fruits 
and grains since early morn ; others, in respect to the 
day, — it was Sunday, — had left their grain in piles, 
to be half spoiled by the rain and hail. A land-owner 
in the cars told us that he offered men forty-eight 
kreutzers and two schoppen (about a quart of wine) if 
they would work ; but they refused, because their min- 
isters had preached against working. The same men 
went on pleasure trips, danced, and played at nine- 
pins on Sunday. A picnic party came along, with 
several pieces of music. Many of the girls were dressed 
in white ; all had garlands of oak-leaves on their heads ; 
they seemed to be having a good time in spite of the 
rain. 

Lahnstein looked as pleasant as ever, and our friends 
as glad to see us. Made a visit to Ems, which was 
crowded with people. The King of Prussia was ex- 
l^ected. Flags were flying in every direction. Our 
American friends showed their Stars and Stripes. 

Ems is too small, too full of people in summer, and 
too hot, for comfort; but it is fashionable to go there, 



302 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

an*d perhaps as many go to show their fine dresses as 
to try the effects of the water. For ourselves, we hked 
Lahnstein better, and returned to it. Hearing music, 
we ran to the window. The narrow street was 
crowded ; mostly with children, some dirty and ragged, 
with bare legs and bare heads; some hunchbacked, 
many strongly marked with scrofula (the poorer vil- 
lagers live chiefly on potatoes) : now and then we saw 
a sweet, round face, with blue eyes, flaxen hair, and 
chubby cheeks, and some of them were dressed in 
clean calico ; women with infants in their arms, and 
men with long pipes, all crowded about the street 
musicians. 

We have since heard that some ten or twelve houses, 
the habitations of many of these poor people, were 
burned to the ground, and they barely escaped in their 
night clothing. "From him who hath not shall be 
taken that which he seemeth to have." One of said 
families consisted of man, wife, and ten children, and 
occupied one small room. 

July ^bth. We joined a party on a trip to Balduin- 
stein. Going through the tunnel, they related an 
anecdote of an Englishman, who, being told by a Ger- 
man that the tunnel was fifteen minutes long, supposed 
his informant meant fifteen minutes by cars, and, wish- 
ing to improve the time, undertook to change his shirt, 
and had just got his head into it when the cars 
emerged into daylight. 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 303 

We drove to Hoheleihe, a great rock, standing out 
on a hill, surrounded by a rail and seats, and com- 
manding a view of villages, fertile plains, the meander- 
ing Lahn, the railroad and tunnel-arches, Burg Stein, 
and Burg Nassau, the Arnstein Nunnery, Church, &c., 
Laurenburg, with castle and ruins. The ride was 
delightful, winding around hills, and from one to 
another. 

Took dinner in the garden of Nassau Hotel, at a 
moderate expense. Afternoon, went to Bad Nassau, 
a fi.ne establishment, with excellent arrangements for 
bathing, steam engine, &c. Our friends, who had been 
patients in the establishment, recommended it very 
highly. While there, we were introduced to two 
charming old gentlemen, brothers, of eighty-one and 
eighty-four years, respectively. The former was sec- 
retary to Prince Metternich, and a member of the 
Vienna Congress which settled the French boundary 
lines; afterwards he was in the service of the King of 
Holland; he was feeble, and cared for by his grand- 
daughter. His brother, though older, was well and 
strong, in full possession of his faculties, a friend of the 
people, always taking their part against the aristocracy. 
He attended public meetings and festivals, and the 
winter before went with his sons to the skating pond, 
and attempted to skate. 

There was a singing festival in Ober-Lahnstine, at 



304 AN AMERT/^JAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

which the King of Prussia was expected. The poor 
people, whom we had seen ragged and dirty on week 
days, looked neat and tidy for the festival; even small 
children wore white stockings and a white frill in their 
dress. Banners were flying from windows, house-tops, 
and boats. There was a large tent in the grove where 
the twenty singing societies met, and every seat in it 
was filled. We were near the singers' stand, but heard 
little of the music or speeches, owing to the large, open 
space and the wind. 

Kefreshments passed freely among the crowd, no 
doubt too freely for the pockets of those working men 
and women who were present with their families. 
Several of the peasantry had on their best caps, some 
embroidered with gold thread, and some fastened with 
broad black ribbons. Many of the girls had their hair 
pinned with silver pins resembling table knives. When 
we had seen all that was to be seen, we moved off to 
a garden, where we were soon followed by one of the 
societies. They took a table near us, and we had the 
benefit of their fine singing all the evening. 

The festivities were ended with a ball. 

July ^Wi. At six A. M. there was a heavy fog, 
with slight rain ; however, we set off at seven. It looked 
too threatening to stop at St. Goarhausen, where we 
intended to see the Swiss Valley, as they call it; so 
we went on to Bingen, and from thence over to Ass- 



AN AMEKICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 305 

mannshausen, where we had a good but costly dinner, 
at Jung's Hotel. We were to have gone through the 
Niederwald on asses, but as it rained, we took a car- 
riage. There were very sharp, steep points in the 
road ; but the driver said the horses were used to it ; 
at any rate, they carried us along nicely. Stopped at 
the Jagdhouse, where we were told that the land and 
castle formerly belonged to Count Bassenheim. It was 
worth about eighteen millions of florins, which he had 
squandered, together with about six millions of other 
property. They said his wife did her best to help him 
get through with his vast wealth, having a new dress, 
and jewels to match, for almost every day in the year. 
When the property was owned by him, people were 
allowed to ride about his grounds ; now it is owned by 
the Prussian government, and j^eople must leave their 
carriages and walk. We looked into the Zauberhouse, 
so called because you go through a dark passage, 
and suddenly come out upon a beautiful point, where 
you overlook the Rhine. We went to the Rossel. 
The air was clear and balmy after the rain, the atmos- 
phere transparent, and the lights and shades perfect. 
We had a view of Bingen, the Mausthurra, Kemp- 
ton, the Rhine, the Nahe, the Villa Landy, Auer- 
bach's Villa on the Rhine, steam and sail boats, and, 
more than all, the vine-clad hills and green forests. 
After looking and admiring, we went on to the tem- 
ple, where we had another fine panoramic view. 



306 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

The invigorating air and smell of the pine trees 
made us feel as if we should like to remain there a few 
weeks. Price at the boarding-house, everything in- 
cluded, one dollar and twenty-five cents the person 
per day. We put up for the night at the Khinestein 
House, in Riidesheim; supped, as usual, in the garden, 
where strolling musicians played and sang for us. 

Examining our bill next morning, we were so vexed 
at the unreasonable prices, that we walked off in high 
dudgeon, not even condescending to accept seats 
in their omnibus. Unwilling to take leave of the 
Rhine, we located ourselves again in Biebrich. 

There was a fire just outside the town, which 
caused great excitement; it is so very seldom that a 
fire occurs, people are much terrified. The military are 
obliged to attend fires : they are called out by a signal- 
horn. 

The Turkish ambassador, who paid a visit to Bie- 
brich, went into the castle garden with a lighted cigar; 
the keeper ordered him to put it away ; he threw it in 
the keeper's face, for which he received a box upon the 
ear; a row ensued, and the keeper was fined — fined for 
doing his duty, viz., forbidding smoking: he did not 
know that he had to do with an ambassador! A 
Dutch physician at table spoke of the quality of linen 
and cloth in general, showed his shirt, one of three 
hundred which he had had in wear fourteen years. 
Think of making three hundred shirts for one man, ye 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 307 

mothers, wives, and daughters, who consider it a great 
trouble to sew on buttons occasionally! 

August bth. Returned to Frankfort (a very con- 
venient point from which to start in many directions) ; 
took a second-class ticket to Leipzig. VYe could but 
wish that our tickets at home might be arranged in a 
similar manner, viz., so as to allow the traveller a cer- 
tain "^number of days in which to j^erform his journey. 
Our tickets were good for eight days. 

As we came into Thuringen, we noticed the lower 
class wearing calico cloaks, and in Eisenach nearly all 
the market women and maid-servants had them on ; 
some light-colored, starched, trig, and tidy, others 
dowdy and homely. They were circular, and com- 
posed of two capes, one smaller than the other, both 
trimmed with the same material. At the Thuringen 
Hotel we had pleasant rooms at moderate prices. Lu- 
ther's house looks old ; is of a yellowish color, and one- 
sided. The road to the Wartburg was good, and well 
secured on the sides ; the horses had a hard tug to get 
up the steep parts. A guide showed us the chapel in 
which Luther preached. It is well cared for, and they 
try to keep it, as fixr as possible, just as he left it. 
Llis chair, the benches, and some of the paintings on 
the windows, look very, very old. There is service 
in the chapel five times a year, and the nobility attend. 
On great occasions the school children (boys) sing in 



308 AN AMEKICAN WOMAN IN EUKOPE. 

the Singers' Hall, so that their voices can be distinctly 
heard, and they not seen. The Banquet Hall is a fine 
affair, particularly the ceiling. The guide explained 
the frescoes, and told us a great deal about holy Eliza- 
beth. A part of the buildings has been renovated 
within two years. There is an inn, with accommoda- 
tions for people over night. Two good-sized cannons 
stand in the yard, and four soldiers keep guard of the 
Wartburg. Luther's room, in which he translated the 
Bible, is the most interesting of all. There are his 
table, the chair in which he sat, much worm-eaten, 
a carved wooden chest, and a large box, a green stove, 
and a footstool, which is said to be the vertebra 
of some mastodon; and there is the spot on the wall 
where Luther threw his inkstand at the devil. The 
wall has been picked to pieces by visitors, so that but 
little of the ink-stain remains. It would be impossible 
to get a bit of the wall in these days. Carriage and 
span, with driver, who waited a long while for us to 
return, only one dollar and forty cents. 

The stores in Eisenach are quaint-looking, divided 
into two parts ; large arches over the counter, be- 
hind which is half the space of the store and the 
most of the goods. 

From Eisenach to Leipzig one sees a continued 
variety of hills and well-cultivated lands ; plum trees 
in many places along the road-side ; women in dark- 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 309 

colored garments, with white, short sleeves, turbans 
or black ribbons on their heads, working in the fields; 
acres of poppies and flax ; more men and horses at 
work than we saw elsewhere in Germany. 

August 9th. A saloon car, with table in the centre, 
and seats around, afforded a comfortable ride to 
Dresden. We passed several red-roofed villages, and 
windmills ; in one place one on the top of a hill in the ' 
centre of a village, making itself quite conspicuous. 
There were poplars in pairs all along the road ; two 
poplars, then a space filled with low trees, then two 
more poplars. Though looking very friendly, they 
could not be compared to the young couple with us 
in the car, evidently on a marriage tour. 

We had quite a drive about Dresden before locating 
ourselves. Finally took rooms on a first story, agree- 
ing to mount two flights higher for dinner. There 
were Americans there, and everybody spoke English. 
The cooking was more English than German, and the 
whole too set up, artificial, and would-be stylish for 
our taste. 

August l^th. Princess Caroline, of Saxony, wishing 
to raise money to found a hospital, to teach young women 
to be nurses, and take care of nurses disabled by sick- 
ness or age, gave an entertainment in the palace gar- 
den, which attracted thousands of people. The ladies 
of the court in the royal tent sold ices, bouquets, soda 



310 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 

water, &c. Those who took reserved seats went into 
the Palace Hall during the concert. Bands of music 
were scattered over the immense garden. We walked 
from one part to another, then hired chaii's at three 
groschen each. Those who hired before us paid two, 
and those after paid four and five groschen. Finally 
there were no more chairs to be had, and people were 
obliged to stand. All took their supper on the spot. 
The feeding that vast multitude alone must have raised 
a good sum of money. 

Towards evening the pond became the centre of at- 
traction, and happy were those who fixed their seats 
on its edge. The royal family rode slowly around 
the 23ond four times. First, ofiicers and postilions; 
second, king and queen. The king is a nice-looking 
gentleman of about seventy, bald and gray, with quite 
an American face. He was bareheaded. His wife 
wore a very simple w^hite silk bonnet. They were 
enthusiastically cheered, and I heard some people say, 
" Dear old king ; " " Good old man," in the mofft affec- 
tion:ite tones. 

The former King of Saxony fell from his horse and 
was killed, leaving no family. His brother, the present 
King Johan, succeeded. He was in Rome when the 
accident happened ; is a fine Italian scholar. His 
translation of Dante is much liked. But to the royal 
parade : in the third carriage were a prince and an- 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUr^OrE. 311 

other gentleman. Fourth, Princess Carohne, dressed 
in white muslin, with white bonnet trimmed with 
green. The ex-queen and other ladies and gentlemen 
of the court followed. All were simply dressed, and 
made much less show than half the Americans, who 
were present, made when riding out. On the pond 
were eight good-sized boats, boarded over, and having 
four posts and a pyramid in the centre, all lighted with 
colored lamps and Chinese lanterns, which we should 
have thought very pretty but for seeing how slowly 
they were lighted. Young girls in white muslin, w^ith 
green sashes and red rosettes, and gentlemen singers, 
went on board, with a band of music. They then 
floated off into the middle of the pond, just opposite 
the castle, where they played and sang. There were 
colored lights fixed on boards on the water, and lights 
in artificial tulips and crowns in the hedges, and all 
around the edge of the pond. The avenues leading 
to the castle were strung with Chinese lanterns. The 
houses of the gardeners, servants, &c., of which there 
are quite a number, were brilliantly illuminated, and 
the green and white flag of Saxony waved in every 
direction. On the floating platform w^e saw the Stripes 
and Stars of America, which we thought much hand- 
somer than its green and white neighbors. The 
swans on the pond were much disconcerted at the 
proceedings, and swam rapidly from one point to 



312 AN AMERICAN AVOMAN IN EUROPE. 

another, wondering what it all meant. The fireworks 
were very poor ; the pieces had all failed, when we left, 
at ten. Many people just entering the grounds at that 
late hour. They said that the princess planned it all 
herself, and the success was equal to her exj^ectations. 

There is a fine garden theatre outside the city, and 
many gardens, both in and out, where good music and 
fine views can be enjoyed. 

If for nothing else, one would feel paid for going to 
Dresden by seeing the beautiful paintings in the gallery 
— Raphael's Madonna di San Sisto, Correggio's Magda- 
lene, Dolci's St. Cecilia, Romano's Holy Family, Ti- 
tian's, Holbein's, and Murillo's Madonnas, &c. 

One morning we set off for Freiberg at seven 
o'clock; took a return ticket in third-class for the sake 
of air. Our ride was charming through a picturesque 
country of- mountains, hills, villas, and villages, and 
many factory towns with a population of ten thousand 
to a square mile. We went in a sloio train ; stopped 
once to take in one Cask of beer and one tub of ice! 
As the cars ascended, the air was very refreshing; saw 
women carrying immense loads in baskets on their 
backs : those dressed in short blue calico skirts, with 
bare feet and pink kerchiefs on their head, looked well 
for pictures. Passed the village (where the minerals 
are smelted), consisting of a great number of small 
huts or houses enveloped in smoke. From the hotel in 



AN AMEBIC AJf WOMAN IN EUROPE. 313 

Freiberg we walked to the mine Tlimmelfahrt, with the 
intention of descending into it : finding that we must 
go by ladder, and almost perpendicularly, we gave it 
up ; took a ticket, and a miner for guide, and went on 
anything, we should say, but a himmelfahrt (a heavenly 
journey): the wind blew almost a hurricane; the dust 
and sand enough to put out one's eyes: the sun 
pouring down his hottest rays, still on we went, in- 
tent upon visiting the mines, or at least their exterior 
operations. Many children were employed in sorting 
the broken stones : their young eyes detect the silver 
in them at once, and their fingers fly quickly from 
piece to piece, assorting according to the percentage of 
silver, sulphur, arsenic, and lead; every particle of 
stone is used ; not a bit wasted ; even the sand which 
is washed out is sold for household purposes. Our 
guide made out the condition of the miner somewhat 
better than it really is. How poor human pride will 
work ! 

It seems they begin as children, working out of 
school hours, and receiving a trifling comjDensation. 
As men, they are paid twenty cents per day at first ; 
this sum is increased a few pennies from time to time. 
After working some years, their salary is fixed (a small 
sum), and for this they must risk life and limb, and 
work night and day : one party works one week nights 
and the next days, and vice versa. If sick, physician 



314 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

and medicine are furnished tliein four months free of 
charge ; if disabled by accident in the mines, they con- 
tinue to receive their pay. 

The material is brought out of the earth, broken up, 
assorted, and put into troughs, where it is well washed ; 
then it is pounded and washed again and again, until 
it is fine as powder. Our guide told us that two hun- 
dred and twenty-five millions of thalers had been taken 
from this one mine. 

A young man, who, as a child, had worked in the 
mines, told us that the miners' families had little else to 
eat than coarse bread and potatoes: to use his own 
words, " If a boy once gets out of his mining village, 
he is not likely to go back to it. The only advantage 
the miner has is regular work, sure pay, and being 
cared for when sick." 

They are sickly as a people; those whom we saw 
looked pale and sallow, and many coughed badly. 

Another day we went to the porcelain factory in 
Meissen. The sales-rooms were filled with beautiful 
wares, vying with the Sevres China. 

The composition of the material is porcelain eaith, 
feispar, and quartz ; this is made into a kind of paste, 
and kneaded until very fine; then it is laid into plaster 
forms; eacli piece, each plate, is put into a case or box 
when ready for baking, so that no smoke can come to 
it; tlie ovens are heated to white heat, and the articles 



A'N AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 315 

baked thirty-six hours ; small cases are taken out from 
time .to time to try the heat. Every part of a figure, 
and every leaf of a flower, is made sej^arately, in a 
mould; the plaster moulds are brushed with strong 
soap suds, never with oil. 

The painting is done with fine camel's hair pencils; 
the colors used are all mineral, and mixed with turpen- 
tine oil. Pure gold, platina, and silver are also used. 

We observed to the guide, "We should think this 
work might be well done by women ; " to which he 
answered, putting his fingers to his forehead and 
shrugging his shoulders, " Women have not so much 
— as men." I supposed that my presence hindered 
his saying what he indicated. However, we found 
women in three of the rooms; some of them were 
rubbing the gold on the china with glass instruments, 
to polish it; others were cutting out the open work 
parts of fruit dishes, &c. ; very few were painting. The 
porcelain is glazed before it is painted ; each piece goes 
through many processes and many hands. Seeing the 
immense labor bestowed on the ware, we did not won- 
der that they charged so much for it. One rather 
small tray, with three cups and saucers, was valued at 
three hundred thalers (a thaler is seventy cents). 
There were from five to six hundred workers in the 
building. Of the painters, some were copying natural 
flowers, birds, &c. They painted the object at once, 
and with the greatest care and precision. 



316 AN AMERICAN AVOMAN IN EUROPE. 

There is a good picture by Cranach in the old 
Cathedral, where are buried the bishops so renowned 
for their quarrels with their neighbors. 

August 19^A. We bade adieu to Dresden, with its 
fine buildings, wide streets, good sidewalks, pleasant 
promenades, and kind people, and returned to Leipzig ; 
this time went into the Auerbach's Keller, made famous 
by Goethe's Faust, as the place where the students met 
and drank. Although much frequented, it is a dark 
place, with no other attractions, that we could find, but 
the old pictures of the sixteenth century on the walls. 

The shop windoW'S are not very fanciful in Leipzig: 
everything seems to be of the wholesale order; one 
store filled with sealing-wax, another with letter-paper ; 
one with ropes, another with cigars. 

The new theatre is handsome ; seats large and con- 
venient, decorations fine, the paintings of the curtains 
perfect ; it was a delight to be in such a clean theatre. 
Opera Jessonda tolerably well given. 

Sunday we went to the Thomas Church, consecrated 
in 1496 ; it was well filled. There were two clergy- 
men in black robes, with stiflT plaited collars; at first 
there was loud and lusty congregational singing ; then 
the younger clergymen chanted, and the choir of lads 
and young men responded beautifully; among them 
were charming voices. A chapter from the Bible was 
very distinctly read by the elder ministei-, after which 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN ETJEOPE. 317 

the choir, organ, and a number of musical instruments 
gave us the four hundred and twelfth psalm, and fin- 
ished with Handel's Amen fugue ; it was grand, and 
pleased us much more than the choruses in the opera 
of the preceding evening. 

Our dinner cost one thaler ten groschen for two 
persons. Everything was handsomely served in the 
Palmenbaum ; the tables were ornamented with small 
palms in flower-pots. Eating being a very important 
item in the economy of life, we feel in duty bound to 
talk about it. 

In the afternoon we took a lumbering old omnibus, 
and rode to Connewitz, where Napoleon stationed a 
part of his army in the battle of Leipzig; had a two 
hours' ride for eight cents each ; conversed with a gar- 
dener, who was delighted to show and talk about his 
flowers ; his plum trees were breaking under the 
weight of fruitj and the ground was purple with plums. 

Saw a woman acting as conductor on an omnibus ; 
two mothers taking their infants into a church for 
baptism ; the poor little things were swathed on pil- 
lows and covered with white lace. 

August 2bth. Arrived at Gotha. Flags and ban- 
ners were flying in every direction ; the depot prettily 
decorated ; festoons of green, wreaths, and bouquets 
on all sides. The King of Prussia expected with the 
next train. It was as if done for us, and it did us as 



318 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

mucli good as it did him ; moreover, we bad it fresh 
and by daylight, and he had it in the dark. Hotel 
Deutsches Haus displayed the green and white Saxon, 
the black and white Prussian, and the black, white, 
and red North German Bund flags. 

Gotha, though small, is a very interesting place. 
The streets are broad and clean ; houses handsome, 
and having large gardens ; trees everywhere in abun- 
dance ; the palace, an immense building with few or 
no ornaments ; the new museum in process of build- 
ing — a splendid specimen of architecture. 

The market people were an odd-looking set, with 
fantastic head-dresses and long black ribbons hanging 
down behind ; they wore calico cloaks ; some of them 
were bent almost double by the weight they carried 
on the back. 

August 26i^A. We took a through ticket to Frank- 
fort, with permission to be five days on the way — 
a great convenience to travellers. 

At Wilhelms Hohe we met a gentleman much inter- 
ested in the culture of the potato. He said that he 
had one hundred and twenty-seven varieties, and was 
continually making new ones. He carefully cut out 
tlie eyes of one kind and inserted them into the holes 
from which he had cut the eyes of another. 

A chemist, speaking of tomatoes, declared them to 
be poisonous, and could not conceive of their being 



AN AMETIICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 319 

eaten. Next to him* at table sat a girl of four and a 
half years, stiff and prim as any would-be lady. She 
sipped from her glass of red wine, told what she wished, 
and was serious and orderly to such a degree as to 
attract the notice of all who saw her. The childishness 
seemed crushed out of her ; she was a miniature belle. 
Dinner over, we walked through the beautiful grounds ; 
saw the water pouring over those rocky heights, under 
the Devil's Bridge, and from the viaduct over the 
arches. Before the water was let on, many soldiers 
climbed up the rocks. It was a pretty sight, remind- 
ing one of what is often seen on the stage. 

Another instance of the honesty of hotel servants 
came under our observation. After getting into the 
omnibus at Deutsches Haus, in Gotha, and upon the 
point of starting, a waiter ran after us with our opera 
glass, which we had left hanging in our room. 

Giesen is on the Lahn ; has a university, which was 
founded in 1607, and contains about four hundred 
students. Our bill there, at the Hotel Kuhn, exceeded 
anything we had had for a long time. It was about 
double that at the Palmeubaum, and not half as good. 
A large stork's nest on a roof was carefully supported 
by pieces of timber. The people consider the stork as 
a messenger of good luck, and are glad to have it 
build on their houses. 

We next located ourselves at Rodelheim ; visited a 



320 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

bachelor who carried on a largS farm. His house- 
keeper, a very intelligent and industrious woman, told 
us that she had twenty-three persons in the family, in- 
cluding the work people ; women had the care of the 
stables and cattle ; those who labored in the fields 
slept on sacks of straw, with a woollen cloth or blanket 
for a covering ; the others had regular beds. We were 
ushered into the sitting-room, where a sick old dog 
occupied the easy-chair. A cat was allowed to sit on 
the nice white table-cloth with her saucer of milk, 
while we took coffee. We were called out to see Mis- 
tress Pussy's family, of eight good-sized kittens, partak- 
ing of their bread and milk. Eight cats' heads in one 
round dish was no common sight. A goat walked into 
the sitting-room, rubbed against the ladies' dresses, 
put her fore paws in a chair, and made a spring for the 
table. The gentleman, who is very fond of animals, 
seemed to think it was all right. His mother had the 
cat on the table. 

He had horses, cows, pigs, hens, ducks, pigeons, 
rabbits — a perfect menagerie. We, too, like cats, dogs, 
and goats, but not at or on the dinner-table. How- 
ever, all helped to make up a variety. 

An accident obliged us to go again to Frankfort, in 
order to be near a good oculist. This time we had a 
room over the cafe Milani, in the centre of the city. 
In this house we heard good music every morning 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 821 

from our next door neighbor, and almost every even- 
ing from the theatre near by. 

It was fair time. We bought good note paper at 
the rate of one hundred sheets for fourteen cents ; 
envelopes the hundred, eight cents. Having need of 
salt, we went into a grocer's and asked for it. They 
had none ; said it was a speciality, and licensed, kept 
by few people, and directed us to a salt and milk estab- 
lishment, where they were unwilling to furnish a paper 
bag for one pound ; requested us to bring something 
to put it in. The profits on salt are monopolized by 
government. 

The Germans are queer in trading : often they 
charged us as much, or more, for a dozen articles than 
they did by the single one. We asked the prices of 
small statuettes, for example ; were told that it would 
be the same whether we took one or a hundred. They 
do not think of sending home what you buy, or, if they 
do, you are expected to pay the boy who brings your 
goods. The trink-geld is a nuisance to strangers; it 
is tucked on to everything. You continually meet 
women with their arms filled with the purchases they 
have made : confectionery and cakes are often carried 
on a board uncovered, and get nicely peppered with 
dust on the way, set aside the tobacco ashes, for the 
man, who carries them, cannot be expected to go any 
considerable distance without pipe or cigar. 
21 



322 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

September 11 th. On the way to Carlsruhe we saw 
large tracts of land pink with the autumn crocus, 
beautiful trees of the acacia family in flower, and im- 
mense fields of cabbages. A French gentleman in the 
car called our attention to the royal cars of the Em- 
press of Russia — quite an establishment, with various 
separate apartments, some of which were very hand- 
somely ornamented on the outside ; but we remem- 
bered the proverb, " It is not all gold that glitters," 
and took the trappings for what they were worth. He 
told us that the nobility seldom purchased precious 
stones in stores ; they employed persons to go about in 
search of them ; three fourths of what they buy of 
their so-called jewelry is to give away ; what they 
wear themselves is genuine ; many have two sets of 
every kind, one, the common, for every day, the other, 
the genuine and valuable, for festal occasions. 

Among other anecdotes which he related were the 
following : A man bought a large crystal of a peasant 
for one thaler ; carried it to Baden, where he exposed 
it for sale ; an English gentleman paid him four hun- 
dred thalers for it. Another was in Holland, where a 
trader pressed him to take several bags of stones, offer- 
ing them for almost any price. He did not care about 
tliem, but the trader was so anxious to sell that he 
agreed to take them all at two hundred florins.* After- 
wards he gave one of the stones to be polished ; it was 



AN AMEEICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 323 

discovered to be of immense value. People seldom 
purchase real opal, amethyst, or topaz. They are re- 
served for royalty. We saw a crown, brooch, ear-rings, 
&c., in the window of Mellerio's store, thickly studded 
with opal and topaz. Speaking of watches, the gentle- 
man said that a man in Carlsruhe worked night and 
day upon the glass watches so much in vogue, and 
yet made but a modest living. 

Those who deal in antiquities are not particularly 
scrupulous as to what they tell purchasers : when they 
have anything really valuable, they take it to those 
who are sure to pay liberally. 

In the evening we went into the gambling-hall, 
where our companion pointed out Madame Rattazzi, 
the authoress, and cousin of Napoleon. She was 
strikingly dressed in a reddish-pink silk, elaborately 
trimmed with black lace. She wore a quantity of jet 
ornaments, and yellow kid gloves. Her husband, 
formerly Italian prime minister, seemed much absorbed 
in his play. The anxiety, fear, or recklessness marked 
upon the faces of the different gamblers renders the 
gambling an attractive though melancholy sight. 
They told us of a woman who was so much excited 
at having won a considerable sum that she actually 
shrieked. The gambling is allowed to continue until 
1872, on condition that a large sum be laid aside to 
build houses for the poor, so that they may have the 
benefit of the waters free of expense. 



324 AN AMEETOAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

We saw some table-linen, on which were beautiful];^ 
embroidered two large German text letters, surmounted 
by a crown. The w^oman, whose work it was, received 
seventeen kreutzers for each article. By working 
diligently twelve hours a day she could finish one 
dozen per week. The lady who showed them said, 
" I give a great price for this work. The woman does 
a good business." 

September Ibth. We took leave of our German 
friends. I was thankful to have seen so much of 
Germany. It is a beautiful country, and its people 
are generally kind and lovable. The climate, of some 
parts of it, is preferable to that of any other country 
in which we have been. 

Arrived at Chalons, we put up at the Hotel de la 
haute Mere de Dieu (rather a tall name that), where, 
among other good things, we had delicious pears, 
peaches, grapes, and nuts. 

In the evening we strolled through the city, looking 
into shop windows, listened to the music of a French 
band in front of the Government House, saw many 
soldiers standing around a large tent where was an 
American circus, which seemed to be attracting many 
people. 

September 2^th. Our ride to Paris was rather tedi- 
ous, the train behind time, and slow at that. We had 
no trouble about our trunks, which had been sent pre- 



AN AMEraCAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 325 

viously. Went directly to M. Servil's, 91 Avenue des 
Ternes, where we were kindly welcomed. 

On Sunday I listened to an energetic sermon from 
the words, "Christ is my life." The hall was well 
filled, mostly with ladies ; singing indifferent. After 
service people went to the Bois de Boulogne, some to 
see the children dance, others to witness the horse- 
racing. 

Monday we visited a public school, in which one of 
our friends was teaching. The room was small, seats 
inconvenient — about'the same thing as one of our 
village school-rooms some twenty years ago. The 
only advantage in this school was, that the pupils were 
few in number. A more happy looking set of children 
I never saw in one school-room. We were sorry that 
our time was too limited to visit other schools; seeing 
only one, it was impossible to judge of the rest. 

We were asked to give an opinion of the colored 
people in America. A very pious southern gentleman 
had said that the blacks were wholly incapable of 
caring for themselves ; they were lazy, and must be 
w^iipped to make them work. He thought an emperor 
in America would set all things right. Said gentleman 
was very rich, and lived in great style. His wife had 
a colored maid with her, whom she dressed in the 
height of the fashion. He was plausible in speech, 
and made his hearers believe that the South had been 



326 AN AMEBIC AN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

most unjustly dealt by, and that the colored people 
were little better than animals. His wife's maid was 
an exception, and that was why they treated her so 
well. 

They told us the legend of Marseille. A young 
girl, named Marseille, had many lovers. It was time 
for her to make choice among them. A Grecian cap- 
tain and a stranger accidentally sat with the lovers. 
She presented the Greek with flowers, fruits, and wine. 
He was the favored one. The others rose to their feet 
in a fury. He put his hand on his sword, and they 
retired. He built a dwelling for Marseille and himself, 
and called the place Marseille. 

One day we stood at the gate of Neuilly to see the 
officers inspect what was to go into the city. They 
bored holes in the barrels said to be empty, then in- 
serted a plug with great dexteriy ; ran a long iron 
instrument through the heaps of things on market 
wagons and wheelbarrows. It would seem impossible 
for one to smuo^cfle even a bottle of wine under such 
vigilance. One woman had a few pounds of meat in a 
small basket, and was obliged to return with it. Every- 
thing bore upon the poor in Paris. Thei/ pay for the 
splendid boulevards, fetes, and uniforms of the soldiery. 
In the afternoon we witnessed a fight on the 
Avenue de ITmperatrice between well-dressed men 
and women, in which the police did not seem to 



AN AMEEICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 327 

interfere. The avenue was filled with pedestrians, 
and carriages with gayly-dressed people were rolling 
on to the races at the time. 

October Ith. It rained pouring when we left Paris 
for London, by way of Boulogne. Crowds of people 
awaited the cars. Boulogne is the summer resort of 
many English people. It is a fine city, and considered 
very healthy. We regretted not having spent a little 
time there. 

The sea was rough, and we had scarcely put off 
when piles of wash-bowls were brought and placed in 
sight of the passengers, by way of inviting them to 
show what they had for breakfast. The invitation 
was speedily accepted, and accompanied by sundry 
unmusical sounds. 

Two hours' sail carried us over to Folkstone, on the" 
English coast. A tall, coarse-looking man stepped 
into the cars with us. He was very fidgety, and 
asked half a dozen times about his ticket, and if all 
was right; said he did not want to get into a muss 
with " them Englishmen." An English lady asked 
him where he came from ; to which he answered, New 
York ; he said he had been abroad six months, and had 
seen everything worth seeing ; he always had a courier 
to explain ; no one could tell him anything now, &g. 

October ^th. Bloomsbury Square, London. We 
were in possession of rooms which had been previously 



828 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

occupied by a gentleman friend who recommended them 
to us. Agreeing to take our meals with the family, we 
were ushered into a small, damp, dark dining-room, on 
the basement story. The dining-table stood between 
a good fire in an open grate, on one side, and an old 
lounge on the other. A splendid gray parrot occupied 
the window-seat, a canary hung above him, and an 
old cat lay stretched before the fire. 

There we sat in that room at that table, wondering 
what the dinner would be. A pretty young girl, neatly 
attired, came in every few minutes, saying, "Your din- 
ner will soon be ready, sir;" then came the lady her- 
self — " In a few minutes, sir." In about an hour we 
were served with a comfortable dinner. 

In the afternoon attended service at St. Paul's; 
heard the choir of boys sing charmingly. It was 
pleasant to see so many monuments erected to great 
men — Howard, Howe, Johnson, Nelson, Napier, &c. 
The most beautiful was a large black marble gate, with 
figures on each side, one bearing a trumpet, the other 
a sword. This monument comprised strength, ele- 
gance, expression, and simplicity. 

It was dark when we returned to our lodgings ; went 
directly into the lower regions, and asked for toast, 
bread and butter, and cheese, thinking to be served 
immediately. "Yes, sir; thank you, sir; in a moment, 
sir," said the pretty girl. 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 329 

A young man at the table observed that one was 
obliged to wait for what he wanted in that house. 
Again the girl came. " What will you have to diink, 
su' ? (she always said sir to both of us) ; hale is very 
good, sir ; most gentlemen prefer hale, sir ; shall I 
bring you hale, sir ? " " Yes, ale," we answered. 
"Good evening, sir," said the parrot, in a deep, gut- 
tural tone. 

In about ten minutes the lady came in, saying, 
" Sorry to keep you waiting, sir; we'll have it all right 
presently ; can't have things all right the first day — can 
we, sir ? " We waited till patience ceased to be a vir- 
tue, and then asked them to bestir themselves. " Call 
the cats," said the parrot. " I will bring it you pres- 
ently, sir ; thank you, sir," said the girl. Half an hour 
after we were served to toast and London stout. 

On going up stairs we were invited into the sitting- 
room on our floor, as the beds had not been dressed. 

" These are the very rooms which the doctor occu- 
pied ; he was quite suited here, sir. I am sure that I 
shall be able to make you comfortable. The doctor 
was comfortable ; he is a very amiable man, sir. When 
would you like your breakfast, sir ? you can have it at 
any hour, sir. I'm sure you'll find all right in a day or 
two, sir; the first day things never go straight — do 
they, sir ? " 

Next morning she promised us better beds, inform- 



330 AX AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

ing us again that our friend was perfectly suited, &c. 
Then she asked what we would like for dinner, saying, 
" I'll get you a nice dinner, sir ; I cook it myself. The 
doctor was very fond of chops, sir ; O, yes, very fond 
of chops. I can suit you, I dare say, sir; thank you, 
sir ; good morning, sir." The latter sentence was re- 
peated by the parrot, with the addition of, " Call the 
cats, Polly." 

We lost no time in going to the British Museum 
near by. The collection and arrangement of the ani- 
mals and particularly of the birds struck me as being 
the best we had yet seen. There were many more 
shells, but the mineral collection was not to be com- 
pared to that of Vienna ; in arrangement, it certainly 
was not. 

Our good lady gave us an extra nice dinner on time, 
with good " hale," and many " thank you, sirs." 

The Zoological Gardens of London are very fine, 
said to be better than those of Paris. The entrance to 
the Theatre Royal, Holborn, was carpeted and orna- 
mented with pots of flowers ; the theatre small, neat, 
and handsome ; people extravagantly dressed ; much 
red and white, with monstrous heads of hair. 

Sunday, after attending service at Westminster, we 
made an attempt to walk about, but were politely shown 
to the door by an ofiicial, who informed us that there 
would be service in the afternoon. After dinner, walked ; 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUEOPE. 331 

were surprised to see the gin, wine, and tobacco stores 
open, and women frequenting the liquor stores, while 
restaurants, apothecaries, and grocers were closed ; plen- 
ty of apple and nut-stands on the streets. Looking up 
the passage-ways between the stores on High Holborn, 
in many places saw old dilapidated houses, and swarms 
of dirty children and ragged people, some of whom 
were very healthy-looking and handsome. 

A gentleman told us that the protective laws, in re- 
gard to horses, were rigidly enforced ; a man is fined 
severely for cruelty to his horse, and in most cases loses 
his license ; a poor, old, or sickly horse was not allowed 
on the streets. 

We received many attentions from comparative 
strangers, and considered the English quite as polite, 
according to our definition of politeness, as the French. 
A week was all the time we could spare in London, 
for we were hurrying home to attend to the affairs of 
the nation ; we considered our vote, though hut one^ a 
heavy matter, and too important to be lost. In that 
w^eek we drove round American-like, "doing up the 
public places," but not as the lady who rode over the 
beautiful Semmering with her eyes shut ; we kept ours 
open, and really saw a great deal in the time. 

Before leaving our quarters we ascertained that the 
most of the boarders had their meals carried to their 
rooms, which were well furnished, the first floor being 



332 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

the most expensive; those who went to the family 
table paid much less. We, happening in when the 
house was full, had to take what we could get. The 
landlady was a hard-working woman ; she did her be'st 
to give satisfaction ; and as to her niece, Polly, she was 
always kind, obliging, and attentive, with a pleasant 
smile, and " thank you, sir," her stereotyped phrase for 
all. She ran, from morning till night, up and down the 
stairs, carrying food to and from the dijfferent rooms, 
while her aunt prepared dinners at all hours, to suit 
the convenience of her lodgers. We thought a little 
more calculation would have caused her less work and 
have been quite as profitable. The food, as a general 
thing, was very good, and the charges reasonable. 

Although our first impressions had not been very 
ftivorable, we parted mutually satisfied with each 
other, we promising to go to her house should we be 
in London again, and she promising to give us better 
rooms. 

October \^th. What with rain and sunshine it was 
like an April day. Left London at ten A. M., and 
arrived in Liverpool at half past three P. M. Walked 
about the city, undertook an omnibus ride to Egmont 
and Garston; saw fine country residences and rich 
lands; a narrow street in the city, with clothes-lines 
from the second story, filled with clothes, hanging from 
one side of the street to the other. The market 



' AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 333 

looked very neat, and was well stocked with salted 
mutton. Stores generally large and handsome ; goods 
dearer than elsewhere. In one of the entries of the 
Hotel Waterloo was a model of the smallest parish 
church in England, — the St. Lawrence, in the Isle 
of Wight, — length twenty feet, breadth twelve feet, 
height six feet to the eaves; windows Gothic. It is 
built of white stone, and partly covered with ivy. 

October 1th. Sitting an hour on board the boat, be- 
fore she started from the wharf, gave us a good oppor- 
tunity to see the harbor, which is immense, and was 
teemmg with life. Young America was conspicuous 
in the person of a young lady and some lads. It 
amused us to hear the different descriptions they gave 
of what they had seen, what each preferred, what was 
thought of this and that. One much preferred Scot- 
land to Switzerland ; many had seen wonders which 
seemed specially reserved for their observation. Their 
comments on statuary and paintings were very funny, 
each individual considering him or herself a perfect 
judge. The wind blew hard, and it was quite cool 
when we got on board ship. 

Dress was the all-absorbing topic of conversation 
of the ladies, or rather of several of them : one told 
about having paid forty dollars for a hat; then went 
into a detailed account of dresses which she had brought 
from Paris; said that the man who worked for her 



334 AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 

made a dress for the empress, and charged a thousand 
francs for trimmings. The empress sent it back, saying 
she could not afford to pay so much. 

Next day we stood off Queenstown nine hours 
waiting for the post. There were swarms of beautiful 
sea-gulls around the ship, and coming almost over 
the deck; men in boats offering things for sale. An 
American gentleman, who had visited Cork, thought 
it looked much like the Five Points, New York ; peo- 
ple miserably clad ; streets dirty ; houses ordinary. 

October 23(7. The weather, which had been bad 
ever since we started, grew worse. The waves dashed 
over the ship ; the cook stood at his fire in the water 
up to his knees; people sick; children crying; ship 
rolling; dishes rattling. All that day we made no 
headway. 

A California lady attracted much attention. She 
had been abroad six months ; had not found any fruit 
fit to eat in all Europe ; there was no good fruit except 
in California. She talked to her son, a boy of five 
years, about falling in love ; told him he was greater 
than any emperor or prince, because he was an Ameri- 
can; asked him if he would not like champagne; if 
so, he had only to call for it. We were surprised to 
see the child behave as well as he did, after hearing 
all the nonsense his mother talked to hira. 

Some of the young ladies boasted of their wine- 



AN AMERICAN WOMAN IN EUROPE. 335 

drinking; said they never drank water; talked know- 
ingly about different kinds and qualities ; and one 
declared that she could not live without her cham- 
pagne ; another wished she had some whiskey. 
. Those persons who go abroad because it is fashiona- 
ble, or to show their fine clothes, are not likely to 
improve their manners or their habits in a foreign 
country. 

We had no sympathy with those who declared that, 
having been in Europe, they could never content them- 
selves at home, but must go again and again to Paris, 
their paradise. 

We were glad to get home, and believe that there 
is no country like America, no city so good as our old 
Boston. 



386 



AX AMERICAN ■WOMAN IN BUKOPE. 







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